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Dash AC - How cold is yours
Old 07-26-2011, 09:50 PM   #1
neilnbe is offline
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My dash ac does't seem to be that cold. How cold does it normally get? The dash ac in the toad is much colder, in the coach it almost seems like it is just cool air blowing out the vents...definitely not cold!

How cold is your dash AC?

Any ideas on the problem?

It's an 05 MADP

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AC Temp Drop
Old 07-26-2011, 10:24 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilnbe View Post
My dash ac does't seem to be that cold. How cold does it normally get? The dash ac in the toad is much colder, in the coach it almost seems like it is just cool air blowing out the vents...definitely not cold!

How cold is your dash AC?

Any ideas on the problem?

It's an 05 MADP
How cool is the vent temp (Max AC, recirculating)?

At idle, you should be below 57F.

Below 90F outside air temp, your vent air underway should be in the 40s.

My 05 Fleetwood is on a Spartan MM chassis. My dash air, even when it's over 100F outside, is very cold. In fact, I turn off the house AC rolling down the road, and the dash keeps the front of the coach cool enough until the late afternoon sun comes in the windows.

If you'd like some hard numbers, I can put a scanner on the vents, start 'er up, out in the garage.

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Old 07-26-2011, 10:34 PM   #3
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have none at all
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:44 PM   #4
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The ac should be able to keepair at 47-50 on hi fan if outside air is 90-100 just like your car.
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Old 07-27-2011, 05:47 AM   #5
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Well...it sounds like I've got some fixing to do...my dash AC is not even close to 57 degrees and definitely not in the 40s at anytime. Anyone worked on their system? There must be some sort of compressor, but I would think it's not all the way in the back mt'ed on the engine?
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:37 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilnbe View Post
There must be some sort of compressor, but I would think it's not all the way in the back mt'ed on the engine?
That's exactly where it is if yours is like 99% of the other DP's out there. The system is EXACTLY like an auto's except with 40' hoses. The "mixing valve" up front sometimes sticks allowing hot heater water air to mix with the cooled air. There should be an on/off valve near the water pump outlet for "heater water" going forward (normally used to shut off heater water should a hose blow). Turn it off to check the mixing valve operation.
BTW, the water pump is mounted TO the engine and not belt driven like the a/c compressor. An owners manual will point out all these locations.
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:50 AM   #7
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If you think about it, both the heating and air conditioning originate from the engine at the back(diesels only) of the coach. It travels 40 feet or so to the heat exchanger in the dash so it's no wonder by the time it gets there they only have a mediocre effect at best. I'm going to try to put some pipe insulation on both feed and return lines to see if it has an effect.
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Old 07-27-2011, 07:07 AM   #8
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My '07 DSDP is like yours - room temp at best. That's why I have had to run the generator/house AC units lately when traveling. I assumed I had a leak in the Freon lines. Not necessarily according to what everyone here says.
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Old 07-27-2011, 07:17 AM   #9
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I have had to do the same thing as BCook57...run the gen w the house ac to keep things cool. Even then the front divers area is pretty warm. The kids have blankets wrapped around them in the coach while I am sweating in the drivers seat.
Is there a site glass to see if the system has coolant in it? I'm going to check the mixing valve...
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:35 AM   #10
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You probably have the Evans unit and during the summer months if hot water flows through the heater portion of unit because of not complete valve closure on heater control.
The control valve can be changed but some of us have installed a ball-valve on one of the heater hoses to keep the hot water from flowing into heater.
Information on Evans valve both old & new.
All this info can be found in Quick Tips link.
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:45 AM   #11
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Start the engine, turn the air con on full, then visually check to see if the fan clutch is engaging. If it is then check the Evans valve, if the compressor isn't running then you need to start checking with a VOM meter to see what is not sending the signal to the clutch. Headed to a dentist appt so I don't have time to find the instructions I recently got from Evan Tempco.
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:56 AM   #12
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We had ours checked while at the shop for other things and it turned out that the system was fine, but the hoses [for lack of a better word] that go to the air vents in the dash were not securely attached under the dash and air was leaking before it ever reached the vents. Once everything was secured we were fine. Happy trails, Joe
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:00 AM   #13
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after 3 years, we finally found that our dash AC problem was the high-pressure switch.
had the system re-charged (maybe even more than once).
had dye put in the system (no leaks).
I don't know any of the specifics, just know that it was the high-pressure switch.
when we talked to Spartan, they told us that the AC dash temp should be 30 degress lower than the temp outside.
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:07 PM   #14
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20 degree drop across the coil That means if it's 75 going in it should be 55 out. That's close.

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