Community Forums

BonanzaFlyer · 05-05-2010, 01:35 PM

I have a 2008 Newmar Essex and the dash air conditioner is not blowing cold air. Are there some common causes others have encountered? Any troubleshooting suggestions?

Thanks

GaryKD · 05-05-2010, 01:51 PM

Hi BonanzaFlyer,
Welcome to iRV2 and the Newmar Owner's Forum. My assumption is the fan works and ambient temp air is coming through the vents. If this is true, see if you can determine if the compressor is cycling. The compressor is attached to the engine. You'll need to see the A/C compressor. While looking at the compressor, have someone turn on the A/C. You should see the clutch (belt driven) engage.

1. If the clutch engages, you'll most likely need to have the professionals take a look at it. The system may need to have refrigerant added. There may be a leak.

2. If the clutch does not engage, this may be an electrical problem. Now it is time to search for fuses. Most automotive fuses are in the left most forward basement compartment. In front of the left front wheel. There should be a legend on the right or rear side of the compartment to tell you what each fuse is for. Even if the fuse checks good, replace it (another long story).

3. There may be a relay or two involved. For relays, I can not help.

a k · 05-05-2010, 02:56 PM

There's an inline fuse hanging of the back of the engine just left and below the AC compressor. Also check the plug in connection off of the AC compressor.(top right hand side of engine looking at it from the back) Could be locked out on low refrigerant safety. If it is cycling on and off in short cycles, it's low refrigerant.n If the clutch stays engaged , it could be a vacumn pump or leak up front.

sip · 05-05-2010, 03:31 PM

I have found over the years that truck air repair and refrigeration shops around truck stops are the best place to get service. Thay have the parts, knowledge and can get you back on your way fast.

Wingman02 · 05-06-2010, 08:26 AM

Under the hood, find the heater hose that is coming from the rear of the coach .... crimp that off with vise grips. Now check your A/C vents. If the air is now cold then it is the temperature control valve. That is a easy fix if that is the problem!

"007" · 05-06-2010, 05:54 PM

If your getting warm tempered warm air you may have a EVAN's control valve giving you a problem.
Some of us just placed a Ball Valve in one of the heater hoses and shut down the heater portion of AC/HEAT unit.

Welcome to the Newmar forum & irv2 by the way.

bontemp · 05-15-2010, 03:27 AM

I spent a good bit of yesterday at the repair shop as they tried to find freon leaks in the AC system on our 2005 Dutch Star. Under use on road trips we lose the freon in only a few days. Recharging the system is easy enough and they used a freon leak detector to go over the whole system without finding the leak. That is with the exception of where the freon lines are hidden since they are routed in the chassis. Are there any "trade secrets" to accessing this section of lines? Since we could not find the leak they put a dye in the system and we'll run it til it ceases to cool then take it back for inspection - could be same problem i.e. inaccessibility of lines in the chassis. Any advice out there in the Newmar world??

SX_RVing · 05-15-2010, 06:13 AM

I've had the same problem with our Dash AC. It would work for a short time and then quit. It kept loosing freon, but no leak could be found. I'd recharge the system, and about a month or two later, no cooling again.

Also, when the system is low on freon, the compressor clutch won't engage due to low system pressure. So if your compressor is not turning, it may not be an electrical problem. At first I thought it was an electrical problem since the compressor wasn't turning. Spent a long time time tracking down the electrical side. Brought it to a service center last year, they added freon, and the compressor engaged with no problems. That quick charge (about 1 lb. of freon lasted less than an week). Fully charged the system myself and then had it checked out by Spartan. That lasted less than than two months of summer driving.

I dealt with this problem for about 2 years. I finally had an residential AC guy with a freon sniffer try to detect the leak location, and zeroed in behind the clutch plates on the compressor, which clued me into that it's probably the compressor seal.

Now to try and have it fixed.... Took the coach to a service center and told them what I new and suspected. They pressurized the system to 350 psi (with nitrogen) to find any leaks. The system held pressure. Then they put a vacuum on the system but that wouldn't hold. So they agreed that it must be the compressor seal. Apparently, if there is any slight imperfection in the compressor shaft, it acts as a pump and you loose the freon despite the fact that the seal holds pressure when the shaft is stationary.

The compressor was just replaced, but I haven't got the coach back yet. I won't know for a month or two if this one's any better.

Hope this helps you'all out.

BonanzaFlyer · 05-31-2010, 09:18 PM

First, thanks for the welcomes and the helpful feedback.

I retrieved my RV from stroage to troubleshoot the air conditioning problem. I checked the A/C clutch fuse, it was fine. I observed the compressor and the clutch is not engaging. I'm proceeding under the assumption it is a low fluid situation. My next step is to have the system charged and see if that solves the problem.

Mike

Iron Man · 06-01-2010, 05:51 AM

Due to lack of use the seals and o-rings in the system dry out. The compressor shaft seal is usually the one to go first and the hardest to repair. As I have said in other post it is a good idea to run the ac system monthly to curculate the freon which in turn circulates the oil to keep the seals and o-rings lubrictated. Rarely ac not blowing out cold air is an electrical issue. Check the comressor to see if the clutch is engaging, if not, or it is going on and off quickly, check the freon level first. There is a low pressure sensor that will no let the clutch engage if the freon pressure is low. This is words of wisdom passed down by my father who had 30 years in the automotive industry.

a k · 06-01-2010, 08:31 AM

Wiggle the plug just off the compressor. Mine was a little corroded. I got lucky.

Parkerrs · 06-03-2010, 06:27 PM

Have your service center check with Spartan on this also. I had the same problem on my coach after 10 months. While I was at factory service it was on the list. I'm in the south and temps near 100 are seen regularly. The tech said that alot of the late model units used in hot climates would build too much high side pressure and blow the compressor seals along with the line o-rings near the compressor.

The fix for my unit was a new compressor along with the initial lines coming off the compressor with new o-rings. They also changed the pressure switch in the system to prevent the overpressure situation from happening. The tech said that they had changed a set number of these pressure switches at the rally a year or so ago. some were the new switch and some were the same. They did this as a test group and found that those with the old switch repeated the problem. If you don't operate in very hot climates regularly you may not experience the failure as the system pressure will not get as high.

Tommy

ronboatplane · 05-06-2018, 05:44 PM

Please post results after compressor change as I have the same situation. Changed compressor after Evans Tempon says evaporator does not go bad and it is the compressor even though there is no trace of oil on compressor. I sure would like to know the outcome of what others have experienced after they could not find a leak and in desperation changed the compressor as I just did on 5 /4/2018 Ron Davis

ronboatplane · 05-06-2018, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SX_RVing

I've had the same problem with our Dash AC. It would work for a short time and then quit. It kept loosing freon, but no leak could be found. I'd recharge the system, and about a month or two later, no cooling again.

Also, when the system is low on freon, the compressor clutch won't engage due to low system pressure. So if your compressor is not turning, it may not be an electrical problem. At first I thought it was an electrical problem since the compressor wasn't turning. Spent a long time time tracking down the electrical side. Brought it to a service center last year, they added freon, and the compressor engaged with no problems. That quick charge (about 1 lb. of freon lasted less than an week). Fully charged the system myself and then had it checked out by Spartan. That lasted less than than two months of summer driving.

I dealt with this problem for about 2 years. I finally had an residential AC guy with a freon sniffer try to detect the leak location, and zeroed in behind the clutch plates on the compressor, which clued me into that it's probably the compressor seal.

Now to try and have it fixed.... Took the coach to a service center and told them what I new and suspected. They pressurized the system to 350 psi (with nitrogen) to find any leaks. The system held pressure. Then they put a vacuum on the system but that wouldn't hold. So they agreed that it must be the compressor seal. Apparently, if there is any slight imperfection in the compressor shaft, it acts as a pump and you loose the freon despite the fact that the seal holds pressure when the shaft is stationary.

The compressor was just replaced, but I haven't got the coach back yet. I won't know for a month or two if this one's any better.

Hope this helps you'all out.

Help what was outcome after compressor change. Did leak stop as this thread suggested it would. How could the compressor be leaking with no evidence of leak?