Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse89
No, is does not become a 10v.... and will not start the engine. With new/old batteries, with internal problems per say, more times than not, if you take a meter and read it across the posts, it will read 12+ volts........thinking the problem is not the battery at this point(seen this on here a ton of times) , now, while holding the leads on those same posts, have a friend turn the key to start the engine......, click........, nothing.........look at the meter......4 volts
Now we are at the point where we can introduce " Battery Load Testing"...
|
A fully charged, good battery is 12.6 v or so. At 12 v it's already 50% discharged. As you said, Load testing is the only reliable way to test a battery. I had a brand new GMC van in the '90s. I'd drive my son to hockey practice and sit in the van grading papers. (it was warmer than the rink) After about 30 minutes, the overhead light would dim so fast you'd think it had been turned down. Battery dead, wouldn't start. I got it jumped and took it back to the dealer. They claimed the battery was good, I knew it wasn't. I started using my GMC emergency road service. They came and jump started me 3 times and said next time it had to be towed to the dealer. So next time, I had it towed to the dealer -- they said the battery tested within parameters, it was just low but was good. I pointed out the way power lasted for 20-30 minutes then disappeared, it was a bad battery, but they said it was normal. I took it to an Auto Parts store and had it tested, it wouldn't pass a load test -- internal short. The dealer service never did a load test, just voltage. Next time it wouldn't start, I called GMC road service again. They weren't going to respond, I pointed out I had been to the service department and had documentation saying it was fine, so we were restarting the count. I got a new battery. It took being an A$$ to get them to finally agree to replace the battery. No more battery issues for over a 100,000 miles.