Community Forums

dp7 · 12-13-2017, 12:57 AM

Dicor roof sealant has been used for many years with EPDM & TPO roofs. I assume that part of the reason for using it is because it is chemically compatible & bonds with these elastomeric roof materials. The downside of using dicor is that it requires constant re-application due to weathering & cracking. Most manufacturers recommend a biannual inspection.

It appears that dicor is also used on fiberglass roofs. Perhaps this is because coach builders have both types of roofs coming down the line & want to use just one type of roof sealant. It would seem that for fiberglass roofs a silicone sealant would be preferable because of it's longer service life. Curious if anyone has any insight into why dicor is used on fiberglass roofs instead of a more durable sealant.

lostinfla · 12-13-2017, 04:14 AM

I would think it's because Dicor is thinner and flows to fill areas that silicone wouldn't reach when sealing up roof vents and such.

FatChance · 12-13-2017, 08:14 AM

Also, Dicor will adhere to previously installed Dicor but silicone will not adhere to old silicone.

Stuart W · 12-13-2017, 08:41 AM

If it has worked forever, why question it?
The self leveling and adhesion to previous applications as previously mentioned clinch it for me. JMO. Stuart

"007" · 12-13-2017, 02:34 PM

Three links for roof BRITE TEX information. -- #1 --- #2 ---- #3

dp7 · 12-14-2017, 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lostinfla

I would think it's because Dicor is thinner and flows to fill areas that silicone wouldn't reach when sealing up roof vents and such.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FatChance

Also, Dicor will adhere to previously installed Dicor but silicone will not adhere to old silicone.

Good points lostinfla & FatChance.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stuart W

If it has worked forever, why question it?
The self leveling and adhesion to previous applications as previously mentioned clinch it for me. JMO. Stuart

Because it has a rather short life. Just trying to determine if a lower maintenance solution is available for fiberglass roofs. Given modern chemistry, it seems that a sealant should last longer than 6-12 months.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 007";3943108]Three links for roof BRITE TEX information. -- [B][URL="http://www.greencountryrvdoctor.com/RoofReplacement.htm

#1[/URL][/B] --- #2 ---- #3

Thanks, but my question was specific to caulking fiberglass roofs.

Stuart W · 12-14-2017, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dp7

Good points lostinfla & FatChance.

Because it has a rather short life. Just trying to determine if a lower maintenance solution is available for fiberglass roofs. Given modern chemistry, it seems that a sealant should last longer than 6-12 months.

Thanks, but my question was specific to caulking fiberglass roofs.

I guess living in So California I don’t have the 6 to 12 month lifespan issue. As I have gone years without needing any reapplication.

"007" · 12-14-2017, 06:04 PM

dp7 than lets do a Newmar search on how to seal a fiberglass roof.

HERE ARE A FEW ANSWERS FOR YOU.

Mark D · 12-14-2017, 06:22 PM

I started putting down eternabond. I take off any big humps of sealant and lay it down over it. It has a 15 year life and is easy to apply. I also was amazed at how easy it is to pull up the dicor . One section where the wire for the awning went into the roof the dicor pulled right up when I pulled on the wire. Glad I did it.

I do it in sections so it's easy.

Cloud Dancer · 12-15-2017, 01:18 PM

This is MY opinion and experience,...It is ssooo ignorant of Newmar managers/workers to think that Dicor self-leveling goop is the thing to use on lap joints (like they did on my 2003 Dutch Star). Any time you have a perimeter flat roof lap joint on a motorhome, there is going to be MOVEMENT of the 2 lapped pieces. AND, it'll show up right at the lap LINE. The hard sun-baked wrong goop WILL crack, and start lifting a bit. How can anybody think that it's strong enough to hold the two pieces from moving,...much less seal the water from seeping into the insulation material?
To fix it right,( like if you plan to keep the motorhome,),....IMO is not affordable (thousands and thousands is what I would charge).
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Disclaimer: I don't think they're ignorant about it anymore. I simply think they do things THEIR way for other reasons. It's been a lot of years, I'm sure they do a lot of things differently. Current prices sure imply they're using better materials and methods. (New Ownership I think)
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I used the name Dicor because a factory worker told me. However, it was hard as a rock when I finally tried to remove it. It literally took me years (working partime). Another thing, I had first assumed the screws were stainless..... (WRONG). THere must've been 1,000 of them, a lot of them rusted. They're all stainless now.