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Old 11-01-2016, 04:37 AM   #1
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Do you camp w/tires in the air?

We are currently in N Ohio - flat looking concrete camp site. When auto-leveled, though, the driver side duallies want to float. So DH backed down manually on that side.

We spent 15-20 years RVing with MH fridges and super careful about leveling. They were much shorter rigs, though, so more sites kept us level than now.

Is it OK to camp with an all electric rig (slides out) with any of the tires in the air? Did I miss any guidelines or advice from Newmar in this?

What leveling blocks do you all prefer?

Thanks!!
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:53 AM   #2
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Front tires yes, rear tires no.
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:55 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildtoad View Post
Front tires yes, rear tires no.
So do you go to un-level? Or do you carry blocks?

Thx!
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Old 11-01-2016, 05:32 AM   #4
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We are currently in N Ohio - flat looking concrete camp site. When auto-leveled, though, the driver side duallies want to float. So DH backed down manually on that side.

We spent 15-20 years RVing with MH fridges and super careful about leveling. They were much shorter rigs, though, so more sites kept us level than now.

Is it OK to camp with an all electric rig (slides out) with any of the tires in the air? Did I miss any guidelines or advice from Newmar in this?

What leveling blocks do you all prefer?

Thanks!!
According to Freighliner no tires should be off the ground and should be properly supported by the ground or by riding up on some sort of block of wood. When our tires are off the ground after leveling we back up a few feet, put some some pieces of 2 x 12s in front of the tires, and drive up on them and re-level until the tires are properly supported and are supporting the weight of the coach. At camp Freightliner Mike was adamant about not having your tires in the air after leveling. We follow his advice and play it safe. If you had no choice but to leave some tires in the air never have the back tires off the ground because that is where your breaks are at rest and your rear tires keep the coach from moving. If they are in the air they can't keep the coach stationary. While I'm not mechanic, I would imagine any damage from having your tires in the air would require a cumulative effect over some time. Good luck and I hope this information is helpful.
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:00 AM   #5
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I doubt most RV hyd systems (maybe air can - but I don't think its gonna help on longevity) are designed with the rams to support all weight. Look at the size of the rams on most construction equip - generally larger. Eventually an RV hyd seal will go IMO.
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:11 AM   #6
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We move the coach around the lot to get as close to level as possible while at ride height. If not, we add wood to get it back close to level. Then we'll drop the jacks. We also add those heavy pads under the jacks equivalent to the amount of blocks under the tires. Seems to work for us.
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:14 AM   #7
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We move the coach around the lot to get as close to level as possible while at ride height. If not, we add wood to get it back close to level. Then we'll drop the jacks. We also add those heavy pads under the jacks equivalent to the amount of blocks under the tires. Seems to work for us.
I like your approach. I'm going to always follow FCC's recommendation of keeping all 4 tires on the ground at all times. At Camp Freightliner there was much discussion about this and they were adamant about not leaving the weight of the the tire and wheel in the air unsupported. We were at a casino a few weekends ago and there as a Diesel Pusher with the front tires about 10 inches off the ground.
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:25 AM   #8
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Sometimes it just can't be helped. If it's within the HWH's range, I let it do it's thing.
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:29 AM   #9
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I like your approach. I'm going to always follow FCC's recommendation of keeping all 4 tires on the ground at all times. At Camp Freightliner there was much discussion about this and they were adamant about not leaving the weight of the the tire and wheel in the air unsupported. We were at a casino a few weekends ago and there as a Diesel Pusher with the front tires about 10 inches off the ground.

They give any reason why you shouldn't do it? I'd like to hear why it's not recommended.
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:30 AM   #10
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Sometimes it just can't be helped. If it's within the HWH's range, I let it do it's thing.
I just hate when the flashing red light comes on. I've gone as far as made pockets to get the tires in. This happens more in grassy sites.
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:18 AM   #11
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They give any reason why you shouldn't do it? I'd like to hear why it's not recommended.
I don't remember the technical reason but the jist of the conversations was there was too much weight to basically to dangle the tire, wheel and all of the adjoining hardware without the potential to damage the assembly. If you would like to know the technical reason I suggest you call FCC. I'll check my camp freightliner manual tonight as there is a section on this as well.
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:11 AM   #12
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What I did to keep this from happening was to get a super cheap bubble level. Once I am in the spot I throw the level on the floor next to the driver's seat and take a look. If i have one end or side that is substantially low, I get out and put down blocks for the low side, then drive up onto them.

Then, once somewhat level while at ride height, whatever number of blocks I have under wheels, I place those same number of blocks under the associated jacks. Then I let the leveler do its thing.

Since having adopted this this method I haven't had a wheel up in the air yet. My experience has been that once you get the front wheels off of the ground the coach is much less stable, and obviously harder to get into.

John
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:16 AM   #13
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I was afraid of that. Gotta make room in one of the bays to haul around blocks...

My non-technical "person outside" watching for "weight on the tire" means that 1) I can't see any daylight under it and 2) after that, I wait for the tire shape to alter a bit as it begins to carry some of the coach weight again (not much though :-)

Thanks -
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:44 AM   #14
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Outside of the potential issues with suspension parts, the other two areas of concern is the frig and your own comfort. I don't believe level is a big issue in the functioning of a residential style frig. If your frig is a absorption type it generally needs to be within 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back as you are looking at it. You can measure this if you like, there are various incline meter apps for your smart phone that will do this. If your RV is at the 3 & 6-degree limit you won't be comfortable in the RV yourself.
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