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OakHillFarm · 04-15-2019, 05:37 PM

Went on our first trip of the year this weekend. Front a/c gave me some issues. The compressor does not cycle when on "cool" setting. I get the fan running only. I tried to run the unit in "HP" mode and the compressor cycled a couple of times, but it seemed to stop after a couple of those cycles. Rear unit works fine. No fault codes are shown on the thermostat.

Called my dealer today and they are currently taking service appointments for June! Called an RV service place close by and they are currently taking appointments for mid-May. After brief discussion regarding symptoms both service reps stated that it's a good thing I have an extended warranty because the Dometic units are "sealed units", basically unless its an electrical component failure, there is no way to add refrigerant to these units, you just replace them...… Seems rather wasteful. Anyone else run into this situation? Are other manufacturer a/c units also "sealed" and thus non-serviceable?

96 Wideglide · 04-15-2019, 05:47 PM

Possibly just the start capacitor has blown.

lass · 04-15-2019, 05:55 PM

OakHillFarm. Yes many of us have had the same problem and I'm on my 5th. set of A/C units in 5 years. If the dealers can't take care of your problem, you can contact Dometic directly and they can give you names of their certified Dometic dealers near you for service. Or log on to their sites and find one yourself. If the unit needs repairs or replacement, that tech will handle it for you. Your out of pocket may be the first service call. Since you have the extended serve plan, may as well get a new unit.

But, you MUST use a certified Dometic tech.

LongRanger · 04-15-2019, 05:57 PM

I had an issue with the 15000 btu Dometic when at the Pueblo International Rally. I went to a local a/c repair shop. He found the leak and solder sealed it. He then installed an access port/valve and recharged the unit. It has run perfectly for the past two plus years.

OakHillFarm · 04-15-2019, 06:15 PM

If it gets replaced I plan to try and pillage the carcass for everything that might come in handy later. Or I may see if I can just keep the old unit and then try and get a HVAC guy to do like LongRanger's guy did, assuming that is the problem.

As always, thanks for the replies.

Renipladlo · 04-15-2019, 10:54 PM

I am guessing along with other post, replace the start and fan run capacitors, if you have taken any surges, or had low power, that kills them. Dometic will have the correct ones, and they want the model and serial number. If you don't do electricity, these things can kill you, so find good tech and have him/her replace them for you.

1320Fastback · 04-15-2019, 11:10 PM

I had a issue with our 2015 Dometic 13.5 AC and after throwing lots of money at it I then threw it in the trash. A AtWood (pre Dometic and still Australian) AC now sits on the roof and is 10x better in every way.

Edit: Should add I do not have a Newmar, just had a new Dometic.

nomad bull · 04-16-2019, 07:25 AM

If it is low on refrigerant it will still run the compressor, it just will not heat or cool. It sounds like you may have a thermostat problem.

Renipladlo · 04-16-2019, 08:03 PM

All - This directly relates to OP problem. And if you did the below, then something else is wrong.

My story, purchased current coach new in 08. Then retired in 09, and knew I did not know enough about MH to fix things that broke. Went to 10 weeks of RV school, and learned one important thing. At least 2 hours a month - RUN EVERYTHING. Every month, all year long, you can stretch it to 1 hour here and 1 hour there, but at least 2 hours a month, don't care if it's plugged in all the time, or you store it. Now why?
1. In HH/AQ systems the boiler antifreeze can thicken up if it just sits their, then the pumps cannot move it around, running all the zones keeps the stuff thin. I am assuming the oasis is similar, although the boiler antifreeze is a different color.
2. A/C's & Heat Pumps - These units have a reversing valve and it needs to "reverse", and their is compressor oil in the Freon, which needs to mix around in there. Run the HP, heat the coach up real warm, then switch over to A/C and cool the coach down real cool, then back to HP, at least 3 cycles if only 1 hour or 5-6 cycles if doing the 2 hours at one time. Same with conventional furnaces, and a/c's - heat it up, cool it down. Run genset to at least half load, yep, you guessed it 2 hours a month. Cycle the slides, drive the coach down the road 15-20 miles, bring it home, run stuff. It warms the engine, drives the water (condensation) out of the oil and tranny fluid. Living in them does not do this unless you move it once or twice a month. Then if it cold outside, you don't run the A/C's, and if it is hot outside you don't run the furnace, stuff needs to work, even when out of season.

If you sit in a chair all the time and only get up for mother nature, you will deteriorate, the same goes for our RV's, if they sit and never work, they will not work when you want them too. If you take the time to read the manual, every one will tell you to run "X" system periodically monthly.

My a/c's and HP work perfect to this day, never had service except to blow out dust and keep filters clean, the coach was built in 06, it is now 2019, service on systems, oil changes, maintenance, but when it was stored, I went over and ran the stuff every 7-10 days to do what - KEEP IT WORKING. My stuff works, each and every time, because I exercised it regularly. Off high horse.

OakHillFarm · 04-18-2019, 03:35 PM

Agree Old-RVer. Running the A/Cs, electric fireplace, refrigerator, etc. is how I create the load for the monthly generator exercising. Both A/Cs were run in both heat and cool mode over the winter, monthly while the rig was in the storage bay. I did have the rig hooked up at the house last summer but only with a 30 amp service and had some low voltage faults show up on the surge protector box. Interestingly, I was running the forward a/c during that time. May have injured the capacitors??? I called around and got an earlier appointment at a local RV repair place that is listed on the Dometic website. I did go up on the roof and opened the cover but saw no obvious problems. I have seen leaking or blown capacitors on electrical items before, but no dice here.

I will post what the repair place finds.

OakHillFarm · 05-07-2019, 10:34 AM

Repair place called, compressor died. Gotta replace the unit. Ok, so I have a $100 deductible warranty that came with the coach. Warranty co wont pay the diagnostic fee of $85.00 but they will pay $1600 for the new a/c with removal and reinstall but wont pay the $87.00 in sales tax?? So my $100 deductible is actually almost $300... Quite the racket dometic has going on these by making these “non-servicable” units.

Havent decided whether to ask for the old unit or not. Could turn into a dispisal issue if i cannot get it to work due to our “enhanced” local disposal laws.

Massparanoia · 05-07-2019, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OakHillFarm

Went on our first trip of the year this weekend. Front a/c gave me some issues. The compressor does not cycle when on "cool" setting. I get the fan running only. I tried to run the unit in "HP" mode and the compressor cycled a couple of times, but it seemed to stop after a couple of those cycles. Rear unit works fine. No fault codes are shown on the thermostat.

Called my dealer today and they are currently taking service appointments for June! Called an RV service place close by and they are currently taking appointments for mid-May. After brief discussion regarding symptoms both service reps stated that it's a good thing I have an extended warranty because the Dometic units are "sealed units", basically unless its an electrical component failure, there is no way to add refrigerant to these units, you just replace them...… Seems rather wasteful. Anyone else run into this situation? Are other manufacturer a/c units also "sealed" and thus non-serviceable?

I had to replace one of my units within about a month of owning the RV. I purchased the extended warranties through Dometic on both units. I think it was about $120 for each unit for 3 years.