Drilling Fiberglass

Ronnie Bledsoe 2006 Dutchstar 43' · 10-10-2008, 06:20 AM

I need to install my front license plate...there are no holes on the front cap to accomodate. I need to drill 2 to 4 holes at the lower edge of the cap. Is there a secret to doing this without causing fractures or spiderwebbing. Type of drill? Fast speed or slow?
Help would be appreciated.

Ronnie

Ronnie Bledsoe 2006 Dutchstar 43' · 10-10-2008, 06:20 AM

I need to install my front license plate...there are no holes on the front cap to accomodate. I need to drill 2 to 4 holes at the lower edge of the cap. Is there a secret to doing this without causing fractures or spiderwebbing. Type of drill? Fast speed or slow?
Help would be appreciated.

Ronnie

quikduk · 10-10-2008, 06:37 AM

1. tape off area where holes will go with blue/green painters tape

2. mark center of holes with sharpie

3. use a new/sharp drill bit (standard steel bit) of appropriate size (1/4-20 comes to mind) to drill s-l-o-w-l-y but with a constant speed and pressure

4. ease up on drill speed and pressure BEFORE the bit breaks through the other side (not all caps are finished properly on the back side and the fiberglass could tear so take your time

5. use a chamfer bit to taper the outside edge of the holes with the tape still in place (use the same bit carefully from the back)

You are trying to gently ease the sharp edges of the new holes but don't go so far as to make the material too thin.

6. carefully (slowly) peel off the tape over itself and wipe the surface with a cloth to remove any dust

7. mount license plate with stainless steel bolts and nylon locking nuts with fender type washers on the back end of the cap

I would also use some nylon washers between the license plate/frame and the front of the cap to minimize scratches from the plate rubbing on the cap and you can also add some vinyl/plastic self-stick "dots" (like those used to silence cabinet doors) on the back side of the plate/frame to add more scratch resistance if you please.

8. have a beer (or coffee/tea) and congratulate yourself

Ronnie Bledsoe 2006 Dutchstar 43' · 10-10-2008, 07:00 AM

Exactly the info I needed. THANK YOU

Ronnie

Norm Payne · 10-10-2008, 08:18 AM

Ronnie, before you drill check behind the fiberglass to see if there is a steel support. I know. I drilled two holes and there was not enough room to get the nuts on so I drilled two more holes about one inch from off dead center.

quikduk · 10-10-2008, 11:11 AM

Ronnie:

Norm's got a valid point. Make sure that FIRST, you verify that you can bolt the plate where you want to. I have tons of room but some coaches either have steel tubing in the way or possibly some other obstruction.

If you do have some immovable steel tubing, use bright zinc plated (silver) self tapping sheet metal lag screws...but still add the bumpers and washers for protection. With the self tapping screws, you will want the diameter of the drill bit/hole to be equal to the shank portion of the screw and not the overall diameter. This way, the screw will self-tap easier but still have enough material in the hole to tighten against.

Ken