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Corvetteman · 11-19-2015, 10:54 AM

Everything is back up and running. No damage to my knowledge, concerning the Batteries or the Inverter/Converter. I was truly scared that I had a serious problem!!!!

I now just need to deal with the actual outlet!

Many thanks to all that helped me and hopefully this thread will answer questions others may have with just enough knowledge to be dangerous!!!

GaryKD · 11-19-2015, 04:50 PM

Hi Corvetteman,
Sorry I was not able to reply, but very happy to see you are now up and running. I'm on the road and have very little time for iRV2.

ronspradley · 11-19-2015, 05:51 PM

Corvetteman, question about the GFCI receptacle that trips. Are you saying that you installed this GFCI at your house and you are plugging in your RV shore power plug (with adaptors) into this receptacle? My MH will trip the GFCI if I plug into one. I think that is pretty common. So for clarification, which GFCI is tripping?

ronspradley

Corvetteman · 11-20-2015, 05:13 AM

ronspradley

The outlet I installed is on the outside of my house. It is 20 amp/120 volt. I took the 50 amp cord from my Motor Home, and plugged what is called a pigtail into it. The pigtail which is only about 3' long reduces the 50 amp to 30 amp to a 20 amp, which is a regular 3-prong plug.

I have read in several threads that a 20 amp should be fine for charging all the batteries as long as you are not using any heavy appliances, dryers, etc. but for whatever reason, my CFCI on the house outlet trips. I believe that I have everything shut down and I am going to install a 50 amp outlet which will allow me to eliminate the pigtail and that should absolutely not trip (Hopefully). I just do not want to experience what I have been through again of finding everything drained!

JFNM · 11-20-2015, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Corvetteman

Once I charge up my batteries with a Battery Charger, will the Xantrex RC7 "Turn On", allowing me to then push Battery, Gray Water, Fresh Water, Black Water buttons and see their status? Keep in mind that currently my RC7 doesn't show anything when checking the above, or will the RC7 only work once I correctly get Shore Power, Start Generator, or start up Engines? Thanks

I have a 2005 DS which I think is similar (but may be wrong, again...).

The RC-7 displays information about your inverter/charger/converter (and guesses at battery state). It has nothing to do with your water tanks. The panel that display tank level (and has a water pump switch) runs from 12 volt (directly from the battery, no inverter involved). If that panel is inop then I would guess that your batteries are in a very bad state (dead).

In regards to the battery "set" - it might be easier to think of those four 6 volt batteries as one large 12 volt battery.

What capacity is your external charger (at the 12V setting)? You said 6 amps at 6 volts earlier which suggests it is a mighty "small" (low output) charger. It may never charge that one big 12 volt battery if it is in the 2-3 amps at 12V range.

Corvetteman · 11-20-2015, 07:15 AM

Hi JFNM

I knew I had 4-6 volt batteries and thus had the charger on 6-volt. I thought that since they were in series, all would be charged. Gary from a previous post explained to me that they were in essence a 12-volt system. With a better understanding of my batteries, I correctly put the charger connections to the right battery terminals and changed the charger settings to 12-volt/6-amp. Batteries charged up and everything came back.

I also misunderstood the "Store/Use" Button. I thought that unless hooked directly to Shore Power or Generator, it was to be in the Store Setting. I have since placed it in "Use".

If I was going to continue to charge the batteries, once fully charged, I would set the charger to 12-volt/2 amp trickle setting. On Monday/Tuesday, I am going to install a 50 amp service, which may be overkill, but I just do not want to have to worry about the Coach/Chassis Batteries.

JFNM · 11-20-2015, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Corvetteman

Batteries charged up and everything came back.

Excellent news!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Corvetteman

If I was going to continue to charge the batteries, once fully charged, I would set the charger to 12-volt/2 amp trickle setting.

This is often called "maintaining the batteries". Basically just keeping them at float voltage of around 13.5 (and topped off).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Corvetteman

On Monday/Tuesday, I am going to install a 50 amp service, which may be overkill, but I just do not want to have to worry about the Coach/Chassis Batteries.

I assume this means you are going to leave the coach plugged in to shore power for an extended period of time and let the onboard charger/converter maintain the batteries. If so, I would recommend confirming (perhaps you already know) that this charger/converter is a 3-4 stage unit that will maintain them at the appropriate float voltage. Given the age (2004), I cannot imagine that it does not but might be better safe than sorry.

Also, create a schedule for checking battery electrolyte level and stick to it. If you notice a lot of fluid being needed, something may not be right.

Scottybdivin · 11-20-2015, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFNM

Excellent news!!

This is often called "maintaining the batteries". Basically just keeping them at float voltage of around 13.5 (and topped off).

I assume this means you are going to leave the coach plugged in to shore power for an extended period of time and let the onboard charger/converter maintain the batteries. If so, I would recommend confirming (perhaps you already know) that this charger/converter is a 3-4 stage unit that will maintain them at the appropriate float voltage. Given the age (2004), I cannot imagine that it does not but might be better safe than sorry.

Also, create a schedule for checking battery electrolyte level and stick to it. If you notice a lot of fluid being needed, something may not be right.

All good advice. You will not be sorry to have the 50A plug. It doesn't mean you have to use any more electricity, but you can when needed. Mine is not winterized and stays ready to go year round. Your RV makes a great motel room for overflow guest, or a bailout for you for various reasons. We got a new puppy last winter, and since I have to get up early for work, I slept in the MH for two weeks, while the puppy slept in the house.

I carry a 50A breaker and receptacle with me all the time. I've been know to make my own 50A service if I can find an open slot in a panel nearby.

Kiawah · 11-21-2015, 08:55 AM

Corvetteman,

I do what you are trying to do all the time, and have done it at 2 different locations. I have a Tiffin, but that shouldn't matter. You just need to manage the power being consumed.

- I have the Magnum configuration settings for the converter to limit the converter to draw no more than 3 or 5 amps (don't remember exactly, traveling and don't have access to my RV docs). That's like 30-50 amps of DC charging, which is more than enough.
- I typically would have the refrig turned on, it draws 1 amp compressor/fan working, or 8 amps when defrosting.
- I have the H2O heater (elec) turned off, turn on propane mode if h-water needed.
- Make sure the plugin engine warmer isn't on, but I have a separate Battery Minder for the chassis batteries which is plugged into that same outlet and draws a little current.
- If I need to use the microwave/convection oven, trip the main circuit breaker in the coach and run the microwave off inverter, then turn main breaker backon.
- Don't use the fireplace, or A/C
- TV's are all fine to use.

If we're getting ready to go on a trip I'll plug into my 50Amp plug to turn on the A/C's and HW, but I normally just have a simple extension cord running out to the coach. My coach is sitting that way right now. (BTW, when I say extension cord, I'm talking about a 30'-50' outdoor cord rated at 20 amps, not some cheap interior 6' extension cord.) It's much easier than moving around the 50A cable.

I bring the end of the extension cord into the elec bay, plug a 20A to 30A adapter into that, then a 30A to 50A dongle, to which the coach 50A male plug is plugged.

Kiawah · 11-21-2015, 10:55 AM

Also, you may be getting a ground fault from your charger. I'm not sure because I haven't tested it, and would probably be dependent upon charger anyhow.

Your 120vac gfci, looks to make sure that the current going out on the + wire, is exactly the same that comes back in on the neutral leg.

Depending upon how the standalone charger you have put on is built, they may have connected the 12v- of the charger, to the 120vac grnd or neutral of that charger. When you connect the charger to your batteries, you could be allowing another path to ground for the current coming in off the GFCI, thereby tripping it.

I would just disconnect that charger when you are trying to connect, to eliminate that as a possible problem.