Electrical Problems 2005 Newmar Dutchstar

[Mitchone]

Not sure where to begin on this one, so if I seem to meander all over the place you may understand why. Key word is may.

I've posted previously on my problems with slideouts, namely bedroom. Right now neither slideout will extend. Luckily it's not a serious issue since the RV is in the driveway. But I'd like to figure this problem out once and for all.

The main reason I'd like to get the slideouts working is so I can check the possibility of loose bolts mentioned in previous posts.

My next trip is this Thanksgiving in way too cold Ohio, so I have a bit of time to get this finally figured out.

I've had more than my fair share of electrical problems on this coach. All batteries have been replaced, the chassis batteries have been replaced twice. The RV has about 450 watts of solar on top to ensure my batteries never die again, which was definitely proved wrong. Currently I'm plugged into shore power, and have been the entire year. Just started the RV today for the first time in a bit so I can take my drivers test later this week (recently moved from Va to NC). No problems with the starting but I've never had an issue in warm weather.

That's the background. Pretty much everything seems to work. Except the slideouts. The backup alarm doesn't work, which I honestly don't mind. I'd planned on installing a switch so I could disable it upon a late arrival at a park. Sometimes it works, and other times it doesn't.

Another odd electrical thing I've never figured out is while i'm driving and I turn my headlights on the lights across my dash go off.

I have posted messages on these issues before but was unable to fully resolve them.

I believe if I can solve the electrical issues with the slideouts that everything else will work on it's own accord.

What powers the slideouts? Is it the chassis or house batteries? If I'm plugged in to shore power does it help or harm or indifferent? If my generator is running does that help or harm, etc? Should I turn my inverter off so it's not pulling so much from the batteries? But then. I'm always plugged in and during the day the sun provides between 200-400 watts of high sun.

Is there a wiring diagram specific for my 2005 Dutchstar?

007 (user, maybe not James Bond) suggested I go through all my ground connections but I have no idea where they are to disconnect and make sure I have a great ground.

I'd love to solve all these crazy electrical problems.

Any help would definitely be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mitch
Fayetteville, NC

[purduepete97]

007 is probably right. Random electrical problems are often loose grounds or low voltage. The hard part is finding out where the problem is located.
JMO.
Pete

[Mitchone]

Thanks. If I knew where to start or even where these connections are I'd give it an attempt. Or if others have had similar problems and what they did to resolve their problem would be extremely helpful.

I'm definitely hoping I'm not a first.

[nothermark]

I'd be inclined to go through the whole unit with the proper tools to check all the places wires are connected to a screw terminal. Tight is snug but not so snug as to break things.
Either use insulated tools or power down the unit while doing the check. Doing both is not a bad idea on the 120/240 VAC side. That can get interesting with an Inverter in the system.

I'm betting you will find some loose connections. The materials relax under compression then vibration does the rest.

[Mitchone]

Thanks. I do need to clarify a previous post, I thought it was 007 who posted the previous mentioned suggestion, it was hogdriver, just looked it up.

Can anyone tell me where the slide outs get their power? There has to be a circuit breaker I can start from? If so, where does the circuit get its voltage?

I may be wrong, but I’m pretty sure the slide outs get their power from the 12 volt side.

Thanks,

["007"]

OK lets try a few things, TECH INFO link below, Newmar search engine, --BING LINK, more Newmar search engine.
Your chassis battery will have negative lead to chassis frame as also your house batteries, inverter/converter, fuse panels, all connections good clean and tight, maybe use di-electric grease to keep them that way. Use red battery spray for clean tight battery lugs, no looseness allowed all batteries.
Your alternator will charge all your batteries when driving the coach, test battery charge levels with motor running or when shore line plugged in or Gen running, to see if batteries are charged check them with everything off.
Your diesel BIRD SYSTEM OR B.I.M. will monitor and control the charging of all your battery systems.
You have alot to cover for now its like going back to school, I and others will be here for further discussion, all this information can be found in the QT's links on forum its just faster for me to find, take your time I have 20 years on you, have fun enjoying your Newmar.
Looking back on your post I hope your Solar System is not causing you a problem, that's another thing to discuss, the NEWMAR charging system will keep all batteries charged with out a solar system, if you always boondock the a solar system will help if correctly installed.

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by Mitchone

Not sure where to begin on this one, so if I seem to meander all over the place you may understand why. Key word is may.

I've posted previously on my problems with slideouts, namely bedroom. Right now neither slideout will extend. Luckily it's not a serious issue since the RV is in the driveway. But I'd like to figure this problem out once and for all.

The main reason I'd like to get the slideouts working is so I can check the possibility of loose bolts mentioned in previous posts.


Thanks,

Mitch
Fayetteville, NC

Let's start with the above. You do NOT need to extend the slides to check the bolts. Open the basement doors under the front slides and look straight up about 6 inches in from the door seal. You should see a large shaft running the length of the slide. Locate the motor. Locate tjhe bolts that hold the motor to the bracket. Remove the bolts 1 at a time and use blue Loctite on the threads. Replace and tighten. The bedroom slides are different. The motor and bracket for the "bed" side are under the bed inside storage compartment. Look for a removable panel in the bottom of the compartment. The "dresser side" is a problem ... the motor and bracket are hidden somewhere behind the rear wheel wells. Read other threads for hints.

Ground connections: Open all compartments and look for studs on the big rails (that have wire connections). Look for similar studs in other locations (like the generator slide area and engine compartment). Examine the following areas: Front driver electrical compartment, mid electrical compartment (behind big power cord), inside DC fuse compartment (usually in bathroom ... YOUR SLIDE FUSES ARE HERE).

There is a slide troubleshooting guide here somewhere ... maybe someone else remembers it's location.

[kcolivier]

Do the slide outs have electric locks? If so, check the troubleshooting guide for theory of operation. I'm at the doc right now, but I can go into more detail later. Slides are powered from house batteries. Controllers are attached to the rails in the basement area. I'll try to check back later. If I don't, send me a private message.

["007"]

You should have your coach plugged in or Gen running to extend slides.
If you have slide locks and they do not operate correctly slides will not move.
You need a good full 12v's not from weak batteries.
PROBLEM SOLVERS in QT's # 3 has all types of slide problem threads that members have experienced.
Here is more on slides with your problems.
All slide spec's are in QT's 1 & 2.
You need a MOBIL TECH to help solve your problems, you can call Newmar to find one.

[Mitchone]

I really appreciate everyone’s replies. Today I bought some loctite blue to address the slide out screws and some rust remover to use where needed. About a year after I bought the coach I replaced the batteries with Lifeline AGM batteries. While i had all the batteries out i spent an entire day scraping rust out of the battery box and repainting the area. I didn’t go too far past the battery box. I’ll do this in the next few days. Now that I know where to begin the electrical troubleshooting I’ll start from the fuses. The slide locks do unlock and lock again, then its nothing after that. My goal is to be comfortable in the knowledge when I push the slide out button the slide will do what I expect it to do.

I added solar panels a few years ago when I had my RV in storage. Wanted those batteries ready at a moment’s notice. I’ve tried the slide outs with shore power, without, and with the generator running. I don’t remember ever being able to open or close the slide outs with the generator running.

I have been through QTs on the slide outs and have heard the common theme that if its not voltage then its voltage.

If I’m unsuccessful I’ll follow your suggestion on calling Newmar for a mobile tech, I didn’t know they offered that service.

I’ll let everyone know what the results are once its solved.

Thanks again

[kcolivier]

Since your slides have electric locks, and since the locks are retracting and deploying, I would first look at the interlock system described in the docs pointed out by "007". You will need to have someone help you to start the slides operating, while you are underneath in the basement looking at the lights on the slide controllers. There are three interlock controls per slide: two indicate whether the slide locks are retracted and one indicates if the slide is retracted or extended. To extend, the slide locks have to be retracted and the slide has to be against the coach. Magnetic microswitches provide a way for the controller to know. On the controller there are three lights, labeled "LA1", "LA2", and something else. Watch the light sequence on the controller and make sure the interlock sensors are providing the correct signal. If not, the magnetic part of the microswitches might have to be adjusted (it's just a threaded screw head on a lever arm), or the wires going to the switch may need to be re-crimped, or the microswitches may need replacement. OR, GENTLY tap on the retracted lock arms then re-try to extend the slide a couple of times. If you are comfortable with electrical connections, you can make a small jumper wire and touch it between the two wires coming from the lock arm or slide position switch at the connector coming to the controller, while some else pushes the switch inside the coach, to bypass an offending interlock. If you have two lights lit and one light dark on the controller, then you know it is the interlock circuit associated with the unlit light. If all of the lights operate properly, then you can start looking at the voltages to the motor. Needless to say, I have been down this road before! Good luck and let us know how it comes out. Ken

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by kcolivier

Since your slides have electric locks, and since the locks are retracting and deploying, I would first look at the interlock system described in the docs pointed out by "007". You will need to have someone help you to start the slides operating, while you are underneath in the basement looking at the lights on the slide controllers. There are three interlock controls per slide: two indicate whether the slide locks are retracted and one indicates if the slide is retracted or extended. To extend, the slide locks have to be retracted and the slide has to be against the coach. Magnetic microswitches provide a way for the controller to know. On the controller there are three lights, labeled "LA1", "LA2", and something else. Watch the light sequence on the controller and make sure the interlock sensors are providing the correct signal. If not, the magnetic part of the microswitches might have to be adjusted (it's just a threaded screw head on a lever arm), or the wires going to the switch may need to be re-crimped, or the microswitches may need replacement. OR, GENTLY tap on the retracted lock arms then re-try to extend the slide a couple of times. If you are comfortable with electrical connections, you can make a small jumper wire and touch it between the two wires coming from the lock arm or slide position switch at the connector coming to the controller, while some else pushes the switch inside the coach, to bypass an offending interlock. If you have two lights lit and one light dark on the controller, then you know it is the interlock circuit associated with the unlit light. If all of the lights operate properly, then you can start looking at the voltages to the motor. Needless to say, I have been down this road before! Good luck and let us know how it comes out. Ken

The 3 LEDs are 2 for Lock Arms (the outside LEDs) and the center LED is for the position of the slide (lit when slide is all the way in/closed). The LEDs are lit when the slide activation switch is pushed. If the slide activation switch lights when pushed 12vdc is good ... if the light blinks after activation, the controller has detected an error. When the slide is activated from the stored position, all 3 LEDs should be lit (indicating the arms have retracted and the slide position sensor has detected the slide is closed).

What happens when you push the slide activation button (please be specific and include the time in seconds). For instance: Button pushed and voice announces ... 15 seconds later "X" happens). ??

[GaryKD]

Hi Mitchone,
Instead of trying to find ground wires consider just adding new grounds. That is what I've done. Ground wire problems went away years ago.

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by Mitchone

I really appreciate everyone’s replies. Today I bought some loctite blue to address the slide out screws and some rust remover to use where needed. About a year after I bought the coach I replaced the batteries with Lifeline AGM batteries. While i had all the batteries out i spent an entire day scraping rust out of the battery box and repainting the area. I didn’t go too far past the battery box. I’ll do this in the next few days. Now that I know where to begin the electrical troubleshooting I’ll start from the fuses. The slide locks do unlock and lock again, then its nothing after that. My goal is to be comfortable in the knowledge when I push the slide out button the slide will do what I expect it to do.

I added solar panels a few years ago when I had my RV in storage. Wanted those batteries ready at a moment’s notice. I’ve tried the slide outs with shore power, without, and with the generator running. I don’t remember ever being able to open or close the slide outs with the generator running.

I have been through QTs on the slide outs and have heard the common theme that if its not voltage then its voltage.

If I’m unsuccessful I’ll follow your suggestion on calling Newmar for a mobile tech, I didn’t know they offered that service.

I’ll let everyone know what the results are once its solved.

Thanks again

Hopefully that is not true .... the only time the slide function is disabled is when the engine is running (ignition is on).
The slides should function on either shore, genset, or inverter as long as the engine isn't running..