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Old 10-07-2017, 01:11 AM   #1
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Evaluating Camp Sites for Leveling Jacks

My travel trailer had manual jacks so I am new to the auto leveling jack systems. My parents said be careful of unlevel campsites because they can cause the front windshield to pop out in extreme cases. I was also told that the tires should not be raised off of the ground. On a trip from IL to FL every time I used the jacks all 4 tires were still on the ground. Ironically last week at my home campgrounds I thought the site was fairly level but after the jacks set up the front tires were off the ground maybe 2 inches. While I was watching the front jacks I noticed the jacks were extended much more than normal.

Is there a way the system can tell you if the site isn't suitable before the jacks extend? Or how do you evaluate or assess a site to see if it is usable?

Is it true the windshields can pop out?
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Old 10-07-2017, 03:38 AM   #2
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Camp Freightliner class Mike Cody's position is you should not have any part of your suspension hanging in the air. All wheels should be on the ground, especially your rear wheels due to parking brake.

I have the fish eye level I put on floor up by me before I do my final stop in camp site to check my position. If it shows me being far out of level I will inch coach forward or back, or move to another spot.
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Old 10-07-2017, 04:25 AM   #3
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Get yourself a pair of Utility blocks. They are expensive at 80$ but twice have got us out a pickle on an extremely uneven site.
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Old 10-07-2017, 04:46 AM   #4
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As far as popping out your windshield, the kind of chassis twisting needed to do that would more likely come from entering and exiting gas stations and shopping centers or driving on un-level campground roads. The suspension can only move so much and chassis flexing is normal.

Unless you leveling system is lifting the corners in large increments the chassis twisting should be less then most normal driving.

As far as lifting your tires, carefully read YOUR leveling system operation manual.

A key word, in many, is not to go under the vehicle while the tires are lifted off the ground. You also don't need parking brakes when 4 jacks are bearing the full weight of the MH into the ground.

Ever see a 4 leg picnic table slide a campsite slope ?
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Old 10-07-2017, 06:31 AM   #5
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The V ride rear suspension on the newer DS models has very little independent side to side suspension travel. I'd say it's a 50 50 chance to get in a campsite and have both rear wheels on the ground after leveling. One is, again usually, an inch or so off the ground. I usually do auto level then manually drop the rear slightly.
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:10 AM   #6
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if you are in a very unlevel site, its best to use manual leveling. auto level works best when the campsite is close to level, usually within 4 to 6 inches. closer to 4 for air leveling.
it doesnt hurt to have front wheels off the ground, but rear wheels need ground or blocks under the tires to be safe.
blocks under the jacks help to stabilize the coach. overextending the cylinders can damage them.
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Old 10-29-2017, 04:30 AM   #7
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Thanks for all the responses!

Another question do the leveling jacks get their power from the house or chassis batteries?
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Old 10-29-2017, 06:53 AM   #8
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Chassis batteries
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Old 10-29-2017, 07:42 AM   #9
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Get yourself a LevelMatePro. Moving your coach a foot or so in your pad/parking lot, etc can make the difference between wheels in the air and wheels on the ground. When the auto level system is done leveling, I bump the jacks until I have 0,0,0,0 on the display. Life has become a lot easier since purchasing this thing.
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Old 10-29-2017, 08:09 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokeDown View Post
Get yourself a LevelMatePro. Moving your coach a foot or so in your pad/parking lot, etc can make the difference between wheels in the air and wheels on the ground. When the auto level system is done leveling, I bump the jacks until I have 0,0,0,0 on the display. Life has become a lot easier since purchasing this thing.
Agree, the level mate pro helps find the best level area in your camp spot before you you even put the jacks down.
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Old 10-29-2017, 08:34 AM   #11
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Chassis batteries
FYI:
While this may be the case for the MH in question it is not standard across the board. The hydraulic pump for my levelers is wired directly to the house batteries.
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Old 10-29-2017, 08:58 AM   #12
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Forget all of those fancy gadgets for figuring out if the site is level or not. Just hire my wife. She has a unique ability to walk the site and tell me if we need to use boards under the tires to level up the coach before hitting the Auto Level button.

You know, after 40 years of camping in everything from popups tent trailers to coaches, I've never moved from one site to another site because of it being too unlevel yet. We carry a selection of "leveling boards" and have camped in some unique sites! The worst was a KOA in Bar Harbor Maine.
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Old 10-29-2017, 09:05 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokeDown View Post
Get yourself a LevelMatePro. Moving your coach a foot or so in your pad/parking lot, etc can make the difference between wheels in the air and wheels on the ground. When the auto level system is done leveling, I bump the jacks until I have 0,0,0,0 on the display. Life has become a lot easier since purchasing this thing.
I agree! I can move around on the site to find the most level spor and then put the jacks down. Great product and easy to install and use!!!
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Old 10-29-2017, 09:56 AM   #14
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Welcome to the forum.
This link through links in it will show how to level manually for your 2000 coach, do not think you had the AUTO option at that time.
All the links below in my signature have answers for your Newmar.
This link will give you all tsb's for your coach,brochure,owners guide and many other items for maintenance of your Newmar.
This link will help you get around irv2 and other useful info.
Enjoy the forum and safe travels.
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