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Old 04-30-2013, 05:50 PM   #71
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My full wall slide has issues. I noticed it at the dealer for the first time. There was a piece of rubber gasket hanging out at the top of the slide near the driver. After running the slide back in, it was evident that the slide was rubbing.

The dealer called Newmar while I was there, and newmar attempted to explain it as "the slide will move around some and that is normal." I got on the phone and let them know the gap diffferences (overlapping one side, and 1.5" on the other) and how I can't see this as being normal. They quickly agreed to cover all costs of damage and fixing it.

When the coach is level, it is worse than when it is not-level. The pictures I am attaching are with the coach level. Not sure what it takes, but I am not too excited about the dealer messing with the full wall slide, but don't see that I have much of an option.
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Old 04-30-2013, 05:51 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDR John View Post
It was a full charge. They did a leak test and couldn't find anything.
Exact same thing on mine. I agree with your earlier statement - someone is not doing their job @ newmar.
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:20 PM   #73
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Newmar readjusted our slide while we were there, now it doesn't hit the drivers seat belt when open.


Now the front moves before rear, so it goes in and at a slight angle. I'm looking at how it all works and will figure out how the get them timed together.


Yours is worse then ours was, however ours did touch at the top left corner.
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:29 PM   #74
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The thing is it was perfect before I took it to the dealer. I am almost certain that they ran the slide out without leveling the coach. I have seen them do it all over there lot. That being said, Newmar does the same thing at their factory, but their shop floors and lots are much more level than the dealer.

All of the coaches at the dealership have slides out, and you can tell looking at the coach they are no where near level. So I don't know if that is what caused it, or if it just happened to be the time that it screwed up.

Wish I knew more about how the slide worked and how to keep it aligned properly.

As far as timing on the motors, mine will kind of hip-hop between who is in front of the other. Starts with back last, then it will pass front and then back and forth.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:26 PM   #75
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Here is the spec for dual motors on FWS with trouble section.
Lots of information in it hope dealer techs are up to it.
I think I read the motors would operate back and forth.
Haven't found the triple one yet.
I have always said level coach than move slides especially with a FWS.
You do not need a slope of slide adding to getting slide in straight.
I have never seen a full wall slide underneath, has it the same rails as the smaller ones?
If it has you do not need the rails chaffing.
Maybe dealer did not hear me.
How many times so far have you opened and closed slide without problems?
I think after this is resolved Newmar should should post a warning on a TSB to make sure coach is leveled for FWS.
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:27 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by "007" View Post
I think after this is resolved Newmar should should post a warning on a TSB to make sure coach is leveled for FWS.
I had an issue with our FWS which I will post a little later today when I have time. Good news is that it got fixed and all seems to be working just fine now.

redbaron73 ... hang in there

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Old 05-01-2013, 06:25 AM   #77
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I used the slide about a dozen times without a problem, but always leveled.
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:43 AM   #78
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Here is our experience with the full wall slide.

You may remember (but I kind of hope you don’t) that I was the one who reported that the Newmar tech told us to put slides out first and then jacks down at my factory pick up. (post #545 in page 39 in the “Who’s at Camp Newmar” thread). Well that only happened a few times after we left the factory as we ripped the full wall slide gasket off on the way home when we tried to do this in a “slightly” un-level site. The front edge of the slide must have shifted forward and grabbed the gasket. When we saw what was happening we stopped and put the jacks down and all was back to normal. After we got home our dealer NorthTrail RV installed a new gasket, adjusted the slide and all has been good ever since. I checked the gap around the slide (like shown in redbaron73’s pictures) and it seems to be consistent on all edges.

So, redbaron73, your suspension about the dealer running out the slides without leveling the coach does sound plausible. I am now a “re-believer” of jacks down 1st … then slides out!! Our slide does rock back a forth a little as it comes in. I think that is maybe normal??

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Old 05-01-2013, 01:27 PM   #79
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Sorry to hear about your experiance, Steve. You must have felt awful. Also sorry about the problems you are having RedBaron73. Your issues leave me a bit uneasy about the big slide right now.

Steve, I am glad to hear that you have gone back to jacks down first, slides out next. This has always made more sense to me. The jacks are there to level the whole rig. The chassis is built to have some flex to absorb uneven terrain. Seems to me that up on the jacks should always be level (unless the jacks continue to sink into the ground).

The set up guy at my dealer told me that he did not believe that it makes any difference which sequence you use. He also told me that at a recent Newmar training meeting they were told slides out first, then down with jacks. This was the opposite of what the dealer told me with the first RV I bought from them 6 years ago and I had no issues with those slides.

So, the first 2 times I opened up the rig, I have followed Newmar's latest recommendation (been on nice flat concrete in the barn). No issues.

After reading about your and RedBaron73's issues, I am going back to Jacks down first!

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Old 05-01-2013, 05:00 PM   #80
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I got several phone calls from Newmar customer service today. They are attempting to make sure that I am happy, and that the problem is resolved. That being said...they are giving conflicting information.

I asked: "Does running the slide out when not level cause a problem?"
Answer: "No"

I then asked: "Certainly there is a point to which the coach is too out of level for the slide to work"
Answer: "Yes, you are correct. The slide is designed to move around. We have seen some circumstances where it moves to the degree yours has. This is considered normal."


Question: "Are you saying that it is normal for the slide to move to the point where it causes damage to the paint, causes the seal to peel off, and damages the fiberglass in the top corners?"
Answer: "No, this is not normal. It is possible that it could be caused by the slide being operated in a condition when the coach is in a bind, but we do not have any evidence of this."

This dialog is not *exact* wording, but the best I can recollect after hanging up. They are saying that the coach does not have to be level, but there is a limit to it, and that limit is not documented.

I am going to make a suggestion as to what that limit is: Take a 3 FT level, and if the bubble is 75% in the line then ok. If not, then not ok.

The dealer ran it out with the bubble 100% pegged towards the front of coach (bottom low)

Newmar is covering the damage under warranty without question, but what about next year?

My take away from all of this is to make sure that the coach is reasonably level before running the slides. It is easy to see if the slide has moved from the inside for the front two. There is a mechanical lock that comes up and hits a white plastic piece with a shiny screw on either end. When things are perfect, the lock is centered between the screws.

At the moment the lock is overlapping those white area, with only 80% of the lock making contact with the plastic stopper on the inside. I would give you a picture of it, but coach is still at the dealer.

In the future, I will not run the slide if the lock is not square on the plastic stopper. I will not operate the slides if the coach is not level, and I will not leave it with the dealer unless they agree to the same.

I am still not afraid of the FWS, and believe that it is engineered very well. I just don't think that the salesman are telling the full story about the limitations of the slides use.
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:03 PM   #81
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Steve: Looking at your pictures, I would swear you were taking pictures of my coach. That is exactly what happened to my seal and gasket. In fact...your hand looks a lot like mine...same ring even
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:59 PM   #82
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This thread will give me nightmares. On a recent trip I was camped next to a guy who has owned Class A's for too many years to count. His current (and probably last) coach is a Beaver, beautifully cared for. He was a wealth of knowledge and we discussed the slide/level sequence. He said he always, and Beaver recommended, putting the slides out before leveling. I still don't believe it though...I'll have to learn the hard way.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:23 PM   #83
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I level then slides, always.

It just doesn't seem right to do it the other way.
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:25 AM   #84
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I think you all have the answer for any slide out off level in previous posts.
Not sure who you are talking to Red but with Steve's post should prove the point of leveling before moving the slide.
The slide is on rollers that will track with the pitch of floor inside, if pitched to far the rails for slides have play to move either way, but to far, will rub to fixed rail and twist the slide.
The rocking with three motors or two I would say is normal also as long as the slide goes in straight when level.
It has never been mentioned to lube the slide rails, always leave them dry by Newmar.
That's my version even with the smaller slides since I have owned a Newmar.
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