First wax

[micbob4]

Originally Posted by Pdmeehan

Has anyone tried Top Coat’s “F11?” It is a polish versus a wax.

This one is interesting. The tech at Newmar service center recommended F11.

[micbob4]

Originally Posted by HJLowell

1. Wax for painted surface's, preferably containing NO PETROLEUM PRODUCTS.

2. Polish for Fiberglass, gell coat surfaces.
Preferably containing NO PETROLEUM PRODUCTS

Excellent, so for our full paint Baystar wax is preferred? Not polish?

[Betr2Trvl]

I’m bored this morning, as I’ve been generally ignoring “wash / wax” threads for a while, but it seems the OP is struggling a bit.

Below is an edited excerpt from my original post in this thread (#15), which contains links to other wash/wax threads as well. It gets deep..... http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/full...ml#post4642858

In short.......

Unless you are a going to get very serious about your paint, the difference between one wax or sealant product / brand or the other, is going to be generally negligible as long as they are appropriate products for the application (303 protectant is NOT).

Detailing is a passion for me. Many people may think I’m nuts, but I thoroughly enjoy the time and effort I put into this on all my vehicles. I’m just trying to help and while some of my remarks may come off as snide comments, I’m simply trying to set expectations for folks.

Let’s start out with a simple clarification - a “sealer” is not a “sealant”; a sealant is simply a synthetic / polymer based “wax” vs. natural carnuba based wax (definitions below). For RVs, a sealant is simply more practical vs. a wax.

A wax / sealant is not a “polish” either, except to the point a cleaner wax / sealant has a small level of polishing abrasives. A polish contains abrasives that “correct” / remove defects in the paint, and in most cases need to be applied by machine. After polishing, a wax / sealant needs to be applied. More on polishing in the links within the thread referenced.

And, whatever wax or sealant you choose, what is even more important is how much care is taken to wash and dry your vehicle...... more on that in the links in the referenced thread.

Some definitions below from Griot’s Garage for clarification to start with.

Each product focuses on a particular paint condition and treats varying degrees of durability, clarity, longevity, and defect removal capability.

NATURAL WAX FORMULA - CARNAUBA
Carnauba-based formulas offer good durability and exceptional clarity and gloss. For those who enjoy waxing and are willing to do it more often to achieve a truly show-stopping appearance, Carnauba-based waxes are a great solution.

SYNTHETIC FORMULAS - SEALANTS (most practical for RVs with full body paint)
Synthetic formulas typically offer the best and longest lasting protection and are ideal for daily driven vehicles. Synthetic formulas are ideal for those who prefer to wax less often (1 or 2 times per year).

CLEANER WAX OR "ALL-IN-ONE" FORMULAS
These products gently remove light defects, restore gloss and color, and add a durable layer of protection. They offer time-saving convenience during application but they do, however, need to be applied more often, typically 3 or 4 times per year for the best results.

Note to the OP, you may want to consider a cleaner sealant to start with given the black streaks you mentioned, but without using an orbital your results will be less than optimal. A reference product is Griots Garage “One Step Sealant” https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...tep+sealant.do

SPRAY WAXES
Adding a quick pop of color and protection, these wax products feature easy spray-on or foam-on application and can be used as part of your drying ritual or as a stand-alone enhancer that extends the time between major waxings.

I’ll also add that you can use a detailing spray in the same manner as is noted for Spray on Waxes, but detailing spray usually does not have the same level of wax content. Nor, is either a Spray on Wax or Detailing Spray a “stand-alone” product to replace a “regular” wax / sealant. As I have noted in other posts, I apply a detailing spray to the wet panels as I dry my coach.

If you want to learn more, check out how to videos on most detailing company’s web pages. A couple to look at include Griot’s Garage and Adams Polishes, two companies that I have used many / various products for years. Autogeek also has a great site with many how to videos, but can be a bit overwhelming if you are a novice and not sure what you are looking for.

Pictures from this summer.......

[HJLowell]

Originally Posted by micbob4

Excellent, so for our full paint Baystar wax is preferred? Not polish?

What many professional Yaucht and car
Detailers have written about, told me over the years.

Some wax painted Coaches and then apply a coat of Polish for protection. Also.

[Betr2Trvl]

Originally Posted by HJLowell

What many professional Yaucht and car
Detailers have written about, told me over the years.

Some wax painted Coaches and then apply a coat of Polish for protection. Also.

This is NOT correct.... polish to remove defects, then apply a wax or sealant.

[micbob4]

Originally Posted by Betr2Trvl

I’m bored this morning, as I’ve been generally ignoring “wash / wax” threads for a while, but it seems the OP is struggling a bit.

Below is an edited excerpt from my original post in this thread (#15), which contains links to other wash/wax threads as well. It gets deep..... http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/full...ml#post4642858

In short.......

Unless you are a going to get very serious about your paint, the difference between one wax or sealant product / brand or the other, is going to be generally negligible as long as they are appropriate products for the application (303 protectant is NOT).

Detailing is a passion for me. Many people may think I’m nuts, but I thoroughly enjoy the time and effort I put into this on all my vehicles. I’m just trying to help and while some of my remarks may come off as snide comments, I’m simply trying to set expectations for folks.

Let’s start out with a simple clarification - a “sealer” is not a “sealant”; a sealant is simply a synthetic / polymer based “wax” vs. natural carnuba based wax (definitions below). For RVs, a sealant is simply more practical vs. a wax.

A wax / sealant is not a “polish” either, except to the point a cleaner wax / sealant (as described above) has a small level of polishing abrasives. A polish contains abrasives that “correct” / remove defects in the paint, and in most cases need to be applied by machine. After polishing, a wax / sealant needs to be applied. More on polishing in the links within the thread referenced.

And, whatever wax or sealant you choose, what is even more important is how much care is taken to wash and dry your vehicle...... more on that in the links in the referenced thread.

Some definitions below from Griot’s Garage for clarification to start with.

Each product focuses on a particular paint condition and treats varying degrees of durability, clarity, longevity, and defect removal capability.

NATURAL WAX FORMULA - CARNAUBA
Carnauba-based formulas offer good durability and exceptional clarity and gloss. For those who enjoy waxing and are willing to do it more often to achieve a truly show-stopping appearance, Carnauba-based waxes are a great solution.

SYNTHETIC FORMULAS - SEALANTS (most practical for RVs with full body paint)
Synthetic formulas typically offer the best and longest lasting protection and are ideal for daily driven vehicles. Synthetic formulas are ideal for those who prefer to wax less often (1 or 2 times per year).

CLEANER WAX OR "ALL-IN-ONE" FORMULAS
These products gently remove light defects, restore gloss and color, and add a durable layer of protection. They offer time-saving convenience during application but they do, however, need to be applied more often, typically 3 or 4 times per year for the best results.

Note to the OP, you may want to consider a cleaner sealant to start with given the black streaks you mentioned, but without using an orbital your results will be less than optimal. A reference product is Griots Garage “One Step Sealant” https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...tep+sealant.do

SPRAY WAXES
Adding a quick pop of color and protection, these wax products feature easy spray-on or foam-on application and can be used as part of your drying ritual or as a stand-alone enhancer that extends the time between major waxings.

I’ll also add that you can use a detailing spray in the same manner as is noted for Spray on Waxes, but detailing spray usually does not have the same level of wax content. Nor, is either a Spray on Wax or Detailing Spray a “stand-alone” product to replace a “regular” wax / sealant. As I have noted in other posts, I apply a detailing spray to the wet panels as I dry my coach.

If you want to learn more, check out how to videos on most detailing company’s web pages. A couple to look at include Griot’s Garage and Adams Polishes, two companies that I have used many / various products for years. Autogeek also has a great site with many how to videos, but can be a bit overwhelming if you are a novice and not sure what you are looking for.

Pictures from this summer.......

Thanks so much for sharing your expertise. RV looks awesome. Newmar recommended that we do use buffer. Would it make sense to have detailer handle polishing out black streaks?

[Tigerfan1]

Originally Posted by Betr2Trvl

I’m bored this morning, as I’ve been generally ignoring “wash / wax” threads for a while, but it seems the OP is struggling a bit.

Below is an edited excerpt from my original post in this thread (#15), which contains links to other wash/wax threads as well. It gets deep..... http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/full...ml#post4642858

In short.......

Unless you are a going to get very serious about your paint, the difference between one wax or sealant product / brand or the other, is going to be generally negligible as long as they are appropriate products for the application (303 protectant is NOT).

Detailing is a passion for me. Many people may think I’m nuts, but I thoroughly enjoy the time and effort I put into this on all my vehicles. I’m just trying to help and while some of my remarks may come off as snide comments, I’m simply trying to set expectations for folks.

Let’s start out with a simple clarification - a “sealer” is not a “sealant”; a sealant is simply a synthetic / polymer based “wax” vs. natural carnuba based wax (definitions below). For RVs, a sealant is simply more practical vs. a wax.

A wax / sealant is not a “polish” either, except to the point a cleaner wax / sealant has a small level of polishing abrasives. A polish contains abrasives that “correct” / remove defects in the paint, and in most cases need to be applied by machine. After polishing, a wax / sealant needs to be applied. More on polishing in the links within the thread referenced.

And, whatever wax or sealant you choose, what is even more important is how much care is taken to wash and dry your vehicle...... more on that in the links in the referenced thread.

Some definitions below from Griot’s Garage for clarification to start with.

Each product focuses on a particular paint condition and treats varying degrees of durability, clarity, longevity, and defect removal capability.

NATURAL WAX FORMULA - CARNAUBA
Carnauba-based formulas offer good durability and exceptional clarity and gloss. For those who enjoy waxing and are willing to do it more often to achieve a truly show-stopping appearance, Carnauba-based waxes are a great solution.

SYNTHETIC FORMULAS - SEALANTS (most practical for RVs with full body paint)
Synthetic formulas typically offer the best and longest lasting protection and are ideal for daily driven vehicles. Synthetic formulas are ideal for those who prefer to wax less often (1 or 2 times per year).

CLEANER WAX OR "ALL-IN-ONE" FORMULAS
These products gently remove light defects, restore gloss and color, and add a durable layer of protection. They offer time-saving convenience during application but they do, however, need to be applied more often, typically 3 or 4 times per year for the best results.

Note to the OP, you may want to consider a cleaner sealant to start with given the black streaks you mentioned, but without using an orbital your results will be less than optimal. A reference product is Griots Garage “One Step Sealant” https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...tep+sealant.do

SPRAY WAXES
Adding a quick pop of color and protection, these wax products feature easy spray-on or foam-on application and can be used as part of your drying ritual or as a stand-alone enhancer that extends the time between major waxings.

I’ll also add that you can use a detailing spray in the same manner as is noted for Spray on Waxes, but detailing spray usually does not have the same level of wax content. Nor, is either a Spray on Wax or Detailing Spray a “stand-alone” product to replace a “regular” wax / sealant. As I have noted in other posts, I apply a detailing spray to the wet panels as I dry my coach.

If you want to learn more, check out how to videos on most detailing company’s web pages. A couple to look at include Griot’s Garage and Adams Polishes, two companies that I have used many / various products for years. Autogeek also has a great site with many how to videos, but can be a bit overwhelming if you are a novice and not sure what you are looking for.

Pictures from this summer.......

Very nice!

[AbdRahim]

Originally Posted by Betr2Trvl

I’m bored this morning, as I’ve been generally ignoring “wash / wax” threads for a while, but it seems the OP is struggling a bit.

Below is an edited excerpt from my original post in this thread (#15), which contains links to other wash/wax threads as well. It gets deep..... http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/full...ml#post4642858

In short.......

Unless you are a going to get very serious about your paint, the difference between one wax or sealant product / brand or the other, is going to be generally negligible as long as they are appropriate products for the application (303 protectant is NOT).

Detailing is a passion for me. Many people may think I’m nuts, but I thoroughly enjoy the time and effort I put into this on all my vehicles. I’m just trying to help and while some of my remarks may come off as snide comments, I’m simply trying to set expectations for folks.

Let’s start out with a simple clarification - a “sealer” is not a “sealant”; a sealant is simply a synthetic / polymer based “wax” vs. natural carnuba based wax (definitions below). For RVs, a sealant is simply more practical vs. a wax.

A wax / sealant is not a “polish” either, except to the point a cleaner wax / sealant has a small level of polishing abrasives. A polish contains abrasives that “correct” / remove defects in the paint, and in most cases need to be applied by machine. After polishing, a wax / sealant needs to be applied. More on polishing in the links within the thread referenced.

And, whatever wax or sealant you choose, what is even more important is how much care is taken to wash and dry your vehicle...... more on that in the links in the referenced thread.

Some definitions below from Griot’s Garage for clarification to start with.

Each product focuses on a particular paint condition and treats varying degrees of durability, clarity, longevity, and defect removal capability.

NATURAL WAX FORMULA - CARNAUBA
Carnauba-based formulas offer good durability and exceptional clarity and gloss. For those who enjoy waxing and are willing to do it more often to achieve a truly show-stopping appearance, Carnauba-based waxes are a great solution.

SYNTHETIC FORMULAS - SEALANTS (most practical for RVs with full body paint)
Synthetic formulas typically offer the best and longest lasting protection and are ideal for daily driven vehicles. Synthetic formulas are ideal for those who prefer to wax less often (1 or 2 times per year).

CLEANER WAX OR "ALL-IN-ONE" FORMULAS
These products gently remove light defects, restore gloss and color, and add a durable layer of protection. They offer time-saving convenience during application but they do, however, need to be applied more often, typically 3 or 4 times per year for the best results.

Note to the OP, you may want to consider a cleaner sealant to start with given the black streaks you mentioned, but without using an orbital your results will be less than optimal. A reference product is Griots Garage “One Step Sealant” https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...tep+sealant.do

SPRAY WAXES
Adding a quick pop of color and protection, these wax products feature easy spray-on or foam-on application and can be used as part of your drying ritual or as a stand-alone enhancer that extends the time between major waxings.

I’ll also add that you can use a detailing spray in the same manner as is noted for Spray on Waxes, but detailing spray usually does not have the same level of wax content. Nor, is either a Spray on Wax or Detailing Spray a “stand-alone” product to replace a “regular” wax / sealant. As I have noted in other posts, I apply a detailing spray to the wet panels as I dry my coach.

If you want to learn more, check out how to videos on most detailing company’s web pages. A couple to look at include Griot’s Garage and Adams Polishes, two companies that I have used many / various products for years. Autogeek also has a great site with many how to videos, but can be a bit overwhelming if you are a novice and not sure what you are looking for.

Pictures from this summer.......

Wow. I never got a shine like that. That is worth paying for.

[JMH]

Wash and wax all for protection and some shine. Great stuff for us lazy owners (in the eyes of the shiny guys).

[AbdRahim]

Originally Posted by JMH

Wash and wax all for protection and some shine. Great stuff for us lazy owners (in the eyes of the shiny guys).

I resemble that, although the front cap and windshield get Rejex a few times each year. The whole thing gets McGuires wax cleaner once or twice a year. The hood gets loads of all many, many times a year. I would like to get rid of the swirl marks, but I do everything by hand or wash brush.

[Dutch Star Don]

Here is a tidbit......I have a mechanics rolling chair that I use when waxing my coach. The coach gets the most dirt and heaviest cleaning from about 6' down. With the rolling chair, I can roll down the side of the coach in about 30 minutes. I pick a color in the paint scheme at the highest point I can reach from the chair and wax from their down. I roll the length of the coach, scoot back to the beginning and remove the wax. I do this this about 4 times a year. I wax the upper half 1-2 times a year. I used to do it more often, butting getting old sucks and it's getting tougher. I know at some point, I just won't be able to do it anymore.

[Betr2Trvl]

Appreciate the compliments, thank you.

Originally Posted by micbob4

Thanks so much for sharing your expertise. RV looks awesome. Newmar recommended that we do use buffer. Would it make sense to have detailer handle polishing out black streaks?

My disdain for so called mobile detailers is pretty obvious in the other threads I’ve referenced. From my observations and a few conversations with them, most aren’t qualified to wash a hay wagon, hence my nickname “Two Schumcks with a Truck Mobile Detailing”. I’ve seen an chatted with a few decent ones, but the reality is most RVers just aren’t going to pay for qualified people to do a good job (same for most people and their cars.....).

The other challenge is if you want to jump into proper detailing, it takes some time and effort to learn, and learning on an RV makes it more of a challenge just given the size and the fact most of us don’t have enclosed storage to work in so you have to work around the elements and time limitations.

There are plenty of good how to videos, and I’ll point you to Griots Garage and Adams Polishes as a very good places to start; Autogeek is also very good, but unless you know what you are looking for, it’s hard to wade through everything they offer. There are a plethora of good products on the market today, and with allocating enough time and applying reasonable care in the application, anyone can do a decent job, certainly better than most mobile detailers.

The other challenge of course, it having the appropriate tools and products on hand. One aspect of detailing is using the least aggressive product, so it can be some trial and effort to see what needs to be used for a given situation. As an example, the black streaks may come off by using a clay bar (or one of the new surface prep mitts; again, reference Griots or Adams for more info) and would probably be the best first step, followed by a sealant / cleaner sealant. Clay barring an entire RV would be a real pain (I’ve only done my bay doors and lower rear cap), it’s not hard to do, but a bit time consuming.

https://www.griotsgarage.com/search.do?query=Clay+bar

https://www.griotsgarage.com/categor...how+to+prep.do

Just to end, you can certainly apply a cleaner sealant by hand, it’s just going to take some time and effort to get the best results. If you decide to go that route, at least make sure you get the right application pads. Again, I’ll say call Griots or Adams and see what they suggest.

As for a “buffer”, I’ll simply say DO NOT get a rotary (like a DeWaldt), don’t even think about it. You want a random orbital; Porter Cable makes the de facto standard, and many detailers offer others, some of which are private labeled like Griots.

Anyway, hope that helps and isn’t even more confusing.......

Regards

[CWSWine]

I have used this for about 6 years on different RVs I have owned and has NOT caused any surface damage. The flat sides on the RV are ideal and quick and easy to use.

======
The One-Pass Telescoping Water Blade features a patented medical-grade silicone blade with a Y-Bar edge that sheds water off your RV’s exterior panels without scratching or smearing. The included telescopic handle makes it possible to reach the highest panels on your RV! Why bother using a drying towel when you can dry your RV in half the time with the One-Pass Telescoping Water Blade?!

https://www.autogeek.net/rv-telescop...ter-blade.html

[SailorSam]

Data points and my opinions...


At an RV rally a couple of years ago, one manufacturer had a seminar on maintaining your RV. The presenter who also does car shoes said that overall, he thought the Mothers products were in the best category for what was on the market without being ridiculously expensive. He also said that the Meguiars products were just about as good and at a much better price point, they were "best for the buck". So I've been using the Meguiars Marine and RV cleaner wax and am happy with the results.
For interim cleaning - I use both the Meguiars water-less Wash Wax and the Aero product. Based on a side by side test on the back wall of my trailer, I think Meguiars did marginally better. If you buy Aero in the gallon size, it is a better price. Meguiars is more available for pick-up.

Reading I've done on application says that the pro random buffers are best but can be way to aggressive for an amateur. I bought an inexpensive, light weight, buffer from one of the big box stores. With it, I can do my trailer in about 4 hours. Depending on temperature, I apply a section, change bonnets and buff it off. The warmer it is, the smaller the section. Waxing for winter a couple weeks ago, I applied an entire side before going back and buffing it off. I don't do a "detailer" level job, but it looks pretty good.
For the water-less product use, I really like the applicator that Aero sells. Apply with one side, buff off with the other. Extends and retracts easily, so I can do the entire job standing on the ground.