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Fix or Replace Bay Door?
Old 04-19-2009, 08:04 PM   #1
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When the wrecker yanked me out, it scraped and dented one of my bay doors. I'm a bit brain fried right now, but I think it's the one that opens vertically for the slide controller and maybe the AE awning controller.

Can you get a bay door already painted? If so, how much do they run?

Body work labor is expensive in this area.

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Old 04-20-2009, 04:39 AM   #2
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If the door isn't banged up to much you may find it cheaper to have a shop fix it.
Doors from Newmar come unpainted so new one will need that and you may have to swap door hardware for new one. Cost for new door $425 to 500 dependent on which door. Have a friend that has allot of door problems on MA.
Here is a thread on doors.

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Old 04-20-2009, 12:51 PM   #3
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Hi 69RoadRunner,

007 hit the nail on the head. The doors are very expensive. The last one replaced on my coach cost $575 for the door and $200 to paint. Unfortunately, it needed three colors of paint. My basement doors have been replaced quite a few times, for delamination. For me, take 007's advice and check a local shop first. Your local RV dealers should have some suggestions on shops that work on coaches.
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Old 04-20-2009, 01:14 PM   #4
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Fortunately, the door is 1 solid color.

I also have a scratch that goes across 2 colors. I've contacted an auto body place I've used that used to be a heavy duty truck repair shop. They can fit me in their bay, but not the paint booth.

He said if it's not a big job, he probably can do it.
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Old 04-20-2009, 03:52 PM   #5
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They do not need to fit the coach in the paint booth. Only the door needs to go to paint. The way my doors have been done is:
1. Old door removed
2. New door installed (still factory white).
3. Paint tech masks area not to be painted for color #1.
4. Remove new door and off to paint it goes.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 for each color.
6. Install door to ensure graphics match.
7. Remove door and off to paint for clear coat.
8. Install completed door.

Unfortunately, I know this process because I was "stuck" at the dealer while the work was being done. If you've ever heard the reference to "watching paint dry" it is true. They can not start the next step until the last color is completely dry. Even when heat is applied, paint dries very slowly. I think grass grows faster than paint dries.
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Old 04-20-2009, 04:12 PM   #6
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If it's just banged up at the bottom, maybe you can justify adding stainless steel trim to the entire coach and cover up the ding and get (what some call) a general rig spruce up too. The doors are retail in the $500 range plus paint. Body work labor is expensive everywhere. Another option is to wait for Newmar winter pricing (Jan-Mar) and have them do it for a lot less (about 15% on parts and 30% labor).
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Old 04-20-2009, 05:17 PM   #7
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I just noticed the damage goes past the door to the part in front of the wheelwell, so the whole coach would have to go into the shop.

I think the trim idea would end up costing more. It can look good on some coaches, but I don't think I'd like it on a dark brown coach like mine.
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Old 04-20-2009, 07:44 PM   #8
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Sounds like a trip to Camp Newmar this winter!
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Old 04-20-2009, 07:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVDude View Post
Sounds like a trip to Camp Newmar this winter!
Well, the cost of fuel would be more than having a body shop do the work.

I work with people in Indianapolis all the time. Maybe I'll need to take a business trip up there.

Here's the damage.

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Old 04-21-2009, 09:13 PM   #10
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I disagree totally on the replacement door prices mentioned here. I just finished repairing a bay door myself. Fortunately I have a good friend who has a fab shop and a very talented employee that can do wonders on a steel brake. I had crushed the rolled edge when I left the bay door open and acidentally closed the slide, OUCH!. After the rolled edge was straightened I took the door to a body shop along with the Sherwin Williams paint code. One wek later it looked like new.
I had also called Newmar parts department to price a door. You can but the skin only or the entire door assembly (unpainted). I think you will be surprised how inexpensive they are. They will sell direct to you.

FYI, If you need the instructions on how to remove the door, I posted the insructions from Newmar in the photo section of IRV2. Or PM me and I will send them to you
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Old 04-22-2009, 12:31 PM   #11
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Hi bdaball,
All of us post our experiences, which can be different for a very similar situation. Parts prices can fluctuate quite a bit and are dependent on year, brand and model. Please let us know the price(s) Newmar quoted you and the year, make and model of the coach the door would attach too.
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Old 04-22-2009, 03:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdaball View Post
I disagree totally on the replacement door prices mentioned here.
I can show you my own Newmar invoice for a couple of these doors if you are interested. I can also point you to several others who have gotten the same Newmar pricing. These are for the full door, unpainted, not installed, sans hardware, not just the skin. Newmar buys the skin and internally builds the door. Yes, the internal Newmar inter-departmental transfer price of a full door is just short of $200 (I have seen several internal pricing tags including a couple just a few days ago sitting right here at Newmar) but the out-the-door retail is upwards of $400-$500 depending on the door - and in my case this was during the winter parts/labor discount window..

Of course, it is ALWAYS worth a call to get a quote - especially since Newmar will now direct sell parts - these days they may even be more willing to wiggle prices.
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Old 04-22-2009, 06:21 PM   #13
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bdaball if you could post your explanation and pics on how to remove doors I and others would appreciate it.
I tried to find pics in Photo's no luck would like to post in Quick Tips for future and present members. Thank you "007"
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Old 04-22-2009, 07:17 PM   #14
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Sorry, It was saved in the "Old IRV2" I can't seem to find it either. Maybe a moderator could retreave it from the archives? I will research Newmars quote to me. As I did a repair I may not still have it. Give me a little time. I'm quite sure complete door was under $200 and the skin was in the $65-75 range. Unless you have means to remove the old skin which is held on with Sikaflex-221 you may as well get the whole door. That is pretty rugged stuff.and you will ruin the skin getting it off. Re-attaching also requires Sikaflex-226 cleaner. Both products can be bought on line from several sources.

007- the intructions were a pdf file and I can't seem to save it as a picture. I'll try to PM you.

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