Front Shocks/Suspension and Question From the DW

[LongDogRanch]

We just completed a 1300+ mile trip and now have more than 14000 miles on our coach, a 2013 Newmar Canyon Star on the 26K chassis with 22.5" wheels. As we were riding along we started discussing our "likes" and "dislikes" about our motorhome having owned it since new. The "likes" far outnumber any "dislikes" and in fact the only thing that really seems to bug us both is the jarring that is felt when the front tires hit expansion joints, serious potholes or poorly done patches in the road. The often discussed issues of sway, tail wag and stabilizers that appear on this forum have never really been a problem. So we decided that if we want to consider doing anything in the way of addressing this we would start by posting the question to those who may have already tried to "soften" the jarring.
So, we'd really appreciate hearing your success stories about what you may have done to your F53 to help smooth things out a bit. We don't expect an air ride like a diesel but there must be something that has worked for others.
Thanks in advance for anything you can offer in the way of a suggestion. The CS is such a nice motorhome in so many ways it just seems that this final "fix" would make a world of difference.

[Bill-MACV21]

Change to Koni shocks in front.

[Bill-MACV21]

Actually a two step process. Get your corner weights or net axle weights and insure that you have the correct tire pressures and change to Koni's up front.

Some folks wait for 30 to 60 K miles while other do it asap. Either way it is the best bang for the buck as far as ride comfort is concerned. Especially in a gas model.

It can't nullify the bad roads but it is the best option available.

[DavidP]

On our CS, once we had corner weights, I was able to drop the front tire pressure, based on the Michelin tire charts.

https://www.michelinb2b.com/wps/b2bc...s_Brochure.pdf

It wasn't the difference between night and day, but did help quite a bit.

[TeJay]

Allow me to add some information to that as well. This is our second F-53 MH. The first was a 1999 35' Dutch Star (DS). I added air bags and Bilstein shocks to soften the ride. It seemed to work some.

The f-53 chassis we have on the 2014 WBGO (11,000 miles) is the 18,000 lb chassis, 19.5" tires and 31' long. Our chassis and yours will ride different. I've done the CHF, rear track bar and I'm about to replace the bilsteins with Koni's on the front.

Your current ride stock is better than some since your chassis is longer, heavier and has the 22.5" tires. As Bill mentioned getting your tire pressure just right for your load can/will make a big of difference if you're tire pressures are to high for the load. Many people will inflate their tires to the pressure listed on the sidewall regardless of the weight they supporting. That is incorrect and can give you a very harsh ride.

I have read nothing but good reports regarding the Koni shocks. They are a expensive at $160 Each but if they work better I guess that's good.

Another option that should help with the same concern are adding air bags to the front/rear or both. That's about a $ 800-$1,000 option. It's kod of like adding an air ride. However I've read that putting about 25-30 lbs in the fronts and around 40-60 in the rear will give the best ride improvement.

A third option are called Sumo Springs (google it). That option will run you about $600 for the fronts. I've not had any personal experience with them but some have reported that they also help with the F-53 ride. Do a search on these forums and you'll have a lot to read.

Do let us know what you decide to do and the outcomes. A lot of folks ask and receive a lot of answers from people on these forums. Then they never let us know what they chose to do and how it worked out for them. So we can't share that with others like you.

TeJay

[LongDogRanch]

Thanks for the info so far. We had read good things about the Koni shocks and are thinking that they will be our first step. The SumoSprings are also an interesting possibility. We will definitely post our decision and the results once do something.

[TeJay]

Sometimes we tend to want to jump on board and get it all. The best thing is to start with the cheapest fixes then proceed with the higher dollar items. Most important is to evaluate every step.

The first thing is to get the coach weighed. Getting a weight for each wheel is very difficult. The best place to do that is at some RV rally. There may be somebody who goes around and will 4-corner weight your rig. That's a good idea and I'd do it but I don't go to those types of rally's yet. And what do you do n the mean time. Get the rig weighed and adjust the tire pressures as needed. Then evaluate the difference that is if you needed to remove some air pressure. If you didn't then proceed with what ever MOD you wanted to do.

I've ordered my Koni shocks from Shock Warehouse. They just started selling the Koni's. When I talked to the guy he said that they had only started selling Koni's about 2-months ago and were still on the learning curve. He was not sure when their shocks were going to come in. I ordered on 4/22 and do not have a shipping date yet. The price was not to bad at $160 for each. Back several months ago you could find them for $120 each but they were hard to get.

What did the manufacturer recommend for your tire pressures. Usually they are pretty close to what is needed based on the max that is loaded into the rig. The sticker in our coach says 82 Lbs for front and rear. That's a good place to start.

TeJay

[tomakat]

I replaced my shocks with Koni FSDs (front and back) 3 weeks after the purchase of my new (at the time) 2009 Safari Simba. Even though I have the 22k chassis with the 22.5 wheels, I decided on making the upgrade during the drive home from the dealership. Those freeway expansion joints were teeth jarring and I absolutely hated it. Yes I got all 4 corners weighed and I also adjusted the tire pressure accordingly, but it really didn't make too much of a difference. I knew that I needed to resolve this issue asap or else I wouldn't be keeping this RV for too long. It made a big difference for me and has kept me happy for 5 years. That being said, I'm upgrading to a 40ft. diesel pusher this Saturday. The DP was like a magic carpet ride compared to my Safari Simba.

[Bill-MACV21]

Originally Posted by tomakat

I replaced my shocks with Koni FSDs (front and back) 3 weeks after the purchase of my new (at the time) 2009 Safari Simba. Even though I have the 22k chassis with the 22.5 wheels, I decided on making the upgrade during the drive home from the dealership. Those freeway expansion joints were teeth jarring and I absolutely hated it. Yes I got all 4 corners weighed and I also adjusted the tire pressure accordingly, but it really didn't make too much of a difference. I knew that I needed to resolve this issue asap or else I wouldn't be keeping this RV for too long. It made a big difference for me and has kept me happy for 5 years. That being said, I'm upgrading to a 40ft. diesel pusher this Saturday. The DP was like a magic carpet ride compared to my Safari Simba.

I agree.

When I moved up to a new diesel from a gasser it was a major improvement. I changed to Koni's at 20K and it was another very nice improvement.

I now have a tag and it was event better..... and then I added Koni's at 25K for another bump up.

Yes some of the lousy roads and expansion joints still irritate the hell out of me but the next step would have to be that I buy a private jet.... which is definitely not in the cards (and not as much fun as a class A) so I'll just have to learn to live with it.

["007"]

The Ford has Bilstein shocks on coach now coach needs to be weighted, distribute the weight to front of coach for balance load and put in proper pressures for load its going to be carrying than decide if you want new shocks.
New shocks may not correct problem if coach is not loaded properly.

[TeJay]

This much I have read and observed concerning doing any type of upgrade for steering, suspension and handling (SSH). Every coach responds differently when changes are made. There are so many variables to consider few broad statements can be made based on changes and how coaches respond to those changes.

I've listed these variables before but maybe it's time to list some of them again:
Length, rear over hang, chassis size (18,000, 22,000,24,000 etc) tires (age and brand), tire pressures, shocks (brand & age), track bar front & rear?, amount of liquids carried in holding tanks, distribution and location of loaded weight, fixed location of heavy items (fridge, hot water tank), steering upgrades (safe-T-steer, steering shock etc), condition & age of suspension parts, alignment & current alignment angles, sway bar bushings, CHF (Cheap Handling Fix) etc,etc.

I'm sure I've missed some. Each variable will effect the ride and handling (R/H) of each coach in different ways. Our coach is on the F-53 18,000 chassis. I made a rear track bar and it helped a great deal. Some with 22-24,000 lb chassis didn't see a dramatic improvement. Probably because the extra weight reduced the effect of the approaching semi's. But I guarantee the 24,000 coach would handle better if the wind were stronger. The rear track bar does tie the differential and frame together. This has to tighten up the handling and rear coach movement. If the rear of the coach does not move as much the front steering does not have to counteract that movement. I do believe if they traveled west and encountered some 40-80 MPH gusts of wind they'd notice some improvement. Just because a driver does not realize the difference does not mean that the upgrade did not work to some degree but under different circumstances.

Last month as we approached AR about 5 hours from home we encountered awful winds, narrow roads & construction. It was the worst driving I had encountered ever. The narrow roads (construction sights) narrow shoulders gusting winds were bad. Those conditions were extreme. The rest of the time the driving and handling were very good. Could it be better??? I'm working on that.

The Koni's will be installed this week. New steering dampener shock as well. The first shock I got for my home built system was for a truck not a MH.

The last two items may be air bags & sumo springs if I don't see enough improvement with the above. We'll see. It may never ride like a diesel air ride but it might get close and I didn't pay for a diesel air ride either.

So far I have spent about $1,000 on steering handling upgrades. If I do everything listed I will not have spent $2,500 additional dollars. That's a lot less than a new DP.
And I'm having a ball doing it.

TeJay

[cc8375]

Changed Fronts to Koni Shocks, Weighed coach and lowered the tire pressure to accommodate the weight. My Wife likes the ride and asked me when I was changing the rear. Son used it as said it was the Best driving coach we have owned. Guess the Rears need to be ordered.

Autoplicity has them for $148, it States 2 per box, but I had to order 2. First box has only one.

[cc8375]

Have a Fedex # for the 2nd rear shock. (see above note - only one in box)

Koni Shocks from Autoplicty (Rear) - Koni 8805-1019 8805 Series Shock Absorber (2 per box) | Autoplicity

Front - Koni 8805-1018 8805 Series Shock Absorber (2 per box) | Autoplicity

[TeJay]

After you mentioned the Koni prices for shocks I called SWH and asked if they did price matching. He said NO and KONI frowns upon dealers who try to undercut other dealers on prices for their shocks. He said that they will monitor and yank their product. He said that their prices are fixed. I don't know how accurate they are being and don't know for sure if i believe him but just letting you know. If you got a good price so be it. Good deal.
I've been reading posts and thinking of getting Koni's for about 18 months. From time to time I'd read about a great deal on the shocks then guys were saying that they couldn't get an order processed. Or they ordered them and they were out of stock and were not sure if or when they'd get anymore in anytime soon. Sooooo maybe there is something to what SWH dude told me today.

TeJay