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Old 06-08-2010, 07:16 AM   #15
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We always hook up power and water and such before the full wall slide goes out so really no problem just a change in procedure..re water heater/furnace. If we have electric on the pole or gen set we use electric. If no electric i only have hot water heater on when water needed, I do this as a courtesy to the coach next to me just as I use a stack on the gen set, and it like most water heaters holds it's heat well and only runs a very short time. If i need heat then since I'm a wimp i will not be outside and being cheach and if on power try to use heat pumps as much as possible.
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:07 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soricobob View Post
My two concerns about the full wall slide have nothing to do with engineering or structural integrity. Rather, I wonder what it is like to sit outside, watching the basement TV with the diesel burner blowing in your face; I also have concerns about reaching under the full wall slide to hook up the water, sewer, etc.
My coach is not a full side slide, but my water & sewer are under the bedroom slide. This one is not too bad because it is a short extend slide. However the electic cable is under the front slide which is a wide slide. The doors open up & I am constantly hitting my head on the slide or the door. If I ever buy another coach it will have swing open sideways doors. I strongly believe that the designers of these RV's has never had to set one up or used one. I would bet they sure as h@** never lived in one. I want to design my own!
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Old 06-08-2010, 02:06 PM   #17
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After many bumps on the head I now hook everything up than extend the slides.
Seems more relaxing that way.
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Old 06-08-2010, 02:22 PM   #18
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The reason I brought this up is that we have a living room slide that is about 13' long and a couple of sites we have been on have not been real level. After leveling the coach and putting this slide out, we have found that a couple of times, due to the torque of the body, that the slide was what I would call "whopper jawed", that is not all the way out at the top. Sometime by as much as 2 inches. Double this slides length and I think you can see what I'm speaking of. Also, after finding this, I have pulled the slide in, lifted the jacks, and put the slide out again. Then leveled the coach. The slide really got bound. So we don't do that again anymore. Sometimes after setting a while, the coach gets out of level due to settleing. I will lift the jacks then and reset them. I never had a problem doing this. Only if we're not all bound up. Thanks again for the responses. I still kind of have my doubts about such a large slide. But they sure are nice.
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Old 06-08-2010, 02:38 PM   #19
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shad, If you have auto level jacks when in that type situation you should level manually. Where ever the yellow light is lift that chassis rail first, both front & rear jack for that chassis rail. Than lift opposite side rail with its front & rear jack.
When you lift each rail the chassis will not get a twist in it and possibly popping out the windshield.
The chassis will be more stable and jacks will lift each side level. You may feel one jack hit the uneven ground first but will wait for other jack to hit the ground than both will lift rail level together.
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:51 PM   #20
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007,
Thanks for the tip. We're heading for the Newmar Newfoundland caravan next week and, if the parks in Newfoundland are anything like some in Alaska that we saw in 2007, I'll use your tips. In some places, 'level' was a foreign word. Thanks again.
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Old 06-11-2010, 06:02 AM   #21
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Hi! We have a full wall slide in our King Aire. It is the same floor plan (4566) as offered in the Essex. We have had the coach for a year and a half. We have also put 30,000 miles on it. Having had purchased one of the first ones we expected some growing pains. The small issues we had were: We were getting a deep mark in the bedroom carpet (full tile for the whole coach was not available at the time). The engineers at the factory changed the rear roller to a beefier one, and made the change in production. As Saydiver stated there are two motors that close the slide. It has always closed great. For the first few months after the slide was closed, you would have a small gap at one corner of the slide. In other words it did not quite sit flush to the coach in one corner. It was adjusted twice, yet the problem kept reappearing. The fix; Newmar came out with an upgraded motor board which solved the problem, after one more adjustment to the slide. It turns out that the timing for the two motors was off, and they had to modify the board. All coaches after that and prior have the updated board. That was a year ago, and the slide has been perfect ever since. Closed perfectly flush each time, which has been many. As a side note, the board that operates the full wall slide, is not the same as the boards for all other slides. The neat part is, the switch toggles up and down, depending on if you want the slide to go in or out. No more push the button, and then push it again if you want to change direction. As far as the comment about the Oasis unit blowing diesel in your face, while watching TV, has not been a problem for us. We barely use the diesel side as with the 2 electric elements turned on, you hardly ever need the diesel side. If you do the Oasis is basicly oderless. That is one of the reasons Newmar swtiched from Hydro Hot, as the Oasis runs much cleaner. The pipe has to exit the coach on that side because RVIA regs do not allow for a pipe to exit under a slide. Last but not least, if you want the great convience of a bath and a half coach you will have to duck under the slide, full wall or not, to do any work in the water compartment. Any questions feel free to contact me. Paul
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