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08-19-2017, 03:36 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 3,059
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Ours was built on the 26K chassis(so it has plenty of NCC) and it handles great without any modifications. When we bought ours I asked our Dealer what modifications I should do and referred to many of the threads I had read on IRV2. He told me that the way he orders them, in his opinion there was nothing that would be needed. Keep in mind I totally trust our Dealer as he is an upstanding man with a lot of integrity, and actually owns the dealership(Tom Lindstrom RV). He could have easily sold me several aftermarket things to improve the handling but he said they were not needed. He told me to drive the MH for a few trips and if it needed anything to come back and he would add whatever I needed.
We have had it for about a little over 3 years now and it has been a pleasure to drive. It tracks well, does not sway/roll, and does not get pushed around by wind or big trucks. Look at your MSRP sheet from Ford for the chassis. It will tell you what it came with as far as extra components, sway bars ect. Ours came with both front and rear sway bars and a few other features so maybe that, along with the 26K chassis makes it drive so well. Even in the wind I can comfortably drive with one hand while drinking coffee or a soda. I really think it's more about wheelbase and how the MH body is engineered to the chassis, which Newmar does a great job on.
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Mike & Charlotte
2014 Newmar Canyon Star 3610
Orange County, California
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08-19-2017, 03:49 PM
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#30
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 62
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Gas Coach on Ford F53 chassis
I've been wondering about this too. I recently upgraded to a 2017 Thor Hurricane and the steering control is very good. The problem I have is when you hit a low spot on one side the coach starts rocking from side to side. Sometimes it so severe that it feels like I'm about to turn over. What mods would improve this?
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2023 Georgetown GT7 36K7
Toad: 2020 Honda Fit
Maumelle, AR
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08-19-2017, 03:53 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club Entegra Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 6,379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTravler
I've been wondering about this too. I recently upgraded to a 2017 Thor Hurricane and the steering control is very good. The problem I have is when you hit a low spot on one side the coach starts rocking from side to side. Sometimes it so severe that it feels like I'm about to turn over. What mods would improve this?
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Front sway bar and CHF on rear, I went with the Hellwig front bar.
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Newmar 2016 Canyon Star 3710
Newmar 2018 Dutch Star 4369 SP
Newmar 2023 Dutch Star 4369 FL
Entegra 2025 Cornerstone 45D on order
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08-19-2017, 04:04 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 2,594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTravler
I've been wondering about this too. I recently upgraded to a 2017 Thor Hurricane and the steering control is very good. The problem I have is when you hit a low spot on one side the coach starts rocking from side to side. Sometimes it so severe that it feels like I'm about to turn over. What mods would improve this?
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Just the CHF front and rear tamed the rocking on ours. We also did a Blue Ox track bar to help control the tail wag. We're happy at this point.
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2021 Keystone Outback 221UMD
2018 Tundra Limited 5.7 liter
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08-19-2017, 04:20 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Pompano Beach Fl
Posts: 486
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If you want to get rid of the rock & rollies I put the Blue ox Trac bar and it made a major difference it didn't take out all the side to side movement but id say it took out about 75% of it and for $600ish it was worth every penny$$$...
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Mitch & Laura
And The Doodle Brothers
2018 DSDP 4369/2018 Subaru Forester
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08-21-2017, 11:28 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: State College, PA
Posts: 842
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I have said this in the forum many times, I think I have the magical Canyon Star. I have driven 23000 miles and except during the hurricane in Fl last October, find it easier to drive than my Lexus, at least on the highway. I have made no mods and don't play any weight games, just loaded it up, put DW in and drive, drive, drive.
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Bob and Terri
2019 Ventana 4037 Spartan, 2018 JL Wrangler Sahara
State College, PA
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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08-21-2017, 11:41 AM
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#35
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: western NC mountains!
Posts: 4,106
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Every manufacturer who builds a gas ClassA motorhome uses the same/similar base Ford chassis, with the overall length being the major difference.
Every floor plan and length determine different handling characteristics for each unit - sometimes the same exact unit can act differently in wind and traffic depending on the weight of the passenger(s), personal stuff added to the unit for travel, water and fuel levels, etc... and where/when you are driving, and in what wind and road conditions.
While it might seem so, it's NOT an exact science.
I can personally attest that no matter the manufacturer, the coach will not ride/drive 'better' just because of the Brand name on the side.
I've delivered many ClassA gas units to dealers across the country - a shorter entry-level unit might seem to drive and handle better than the higher-end longer units... even the same model from a manufacturer might handle differently depending on the floor plan - a kitchen on one side might provide a different drive than one on the other.
It's not Ford's 'fault'. It's not the manufacturer's 'fault'. It's the nature of a house being built on top of a rolling frame - every little difference can BE the difference. A lot of weight on the tail end, such as a bathroom, can also make a big difference. Any extra 'tail swing' weight will allow wind and traffic to feel as though it's 'pushing you around'.
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08-21-2017, 01:19 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 961
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Very happy with my 4 year old totally stock gas rv. See no need whatsoever to add all these mods.
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2013 Tiffin Allegro 36LA OPEN ROAD
2012 Honda CRV AWD toad
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08-23-2017, 04:49 AM
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#37
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Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 41
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We are in the middle of a trip from Florida to New York State. We drove up with tires inflated to 100 PSI which rose to approx 110-112 during operation. I have not weighed the RV but I don't run with too much stuff.
The TP label says 100 PSI. Does anyone think I should raise or lower the pressure to something else? As for ride comfort, it can be stiff/rough going over highway bridges and rough pavement. I'd assume a lower pressure could improve the ride a bit but wonder what harm it could cause the tires.
I have SafT Steer, front/rear sway bars installed as well.
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2016 CS3710 with Banks Power System, front/rear sway bars, Saf T Steer.
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08-23-2017, 06:12 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 961
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Read the Michelin chart. I run fronts at 85 and rears at 80#
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2013 Tiffin Allegro 36LA OPEN ROAD
2012 Honda CRV AWD toad
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08-23-2017, 02:37 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTravler
I've been wondering about this too. I recently upgraded to a 2017 Thor Hurricane and the steering control is very good. The problem I have is when you hit a low spot on one side the coach starts rocking from side to side. Sometimes it so severe that it feels like I'm about to turn over. What mods would improve this?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart W
Front sway bar and CHF on rear, I went with the Hellwig front bar.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdInArk
Just the CHF front and rear tamed the rocking on ours. We also did a Blue Ox track bar to help control the tail wag. We're happy at this point.
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Just for posterity's sake, some folks have been suggesting track bars and some have been suggesting sway bars. The terms seem to be used interchangeably by some people (not necessarily in the posts I quoted). There are not the same thing. A track bars helps position the axle under the frame and keep it from shifting side to side. The don't do much to stop the side to side swaying but do help the axle track better.
Sway bars resist, as you might have guessed, swaying or rocking side to side. You want to keep your sports car from leaning on curves, you put in a stronger sway bar. In off road vehicles you disconnect the sway bar to allow the axle to articulate more freely. They essentially limit the rotation of the axle along the long axis of the coach.
A weak track bar might flex and introduce some wandering or flightiness to the steering. A weak sway bar will allow more body roll or side to side movement. If you're getting a bouncy ride, it's probably shocks. As other's have said, issues you might be having, if any, differ from coach to coach depending on weight distribution, chassis selection, etc., etc., etc. You might have more than one issue but understanding how each component affect handling, steering and ride and help you install or upgrade the right part and save a little money.
Or you can just upgrade everything because you can 'cause it's cool
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08-23-2017, 08:34 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 710
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After 6000 miles DW and I are happy with our Bay Star with nothing more than an alignment and adjusted tire pressures. Body roll doesn't affect the tracking. We needed to get used to it. We did.
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08-24-2017, 07:37 AM
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#41
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 55
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Thanks to a kind soul I was able to get my Bay Star Sport 2903 weighed 4 wheels. The gas side (driver) rear wheel was 500lbs heavier than the rear passenger wheel. The front where nearly identical. I don't have much under storage so I'm guessing it's the weight of fuel?? Is this normal or something I should be concerned with? I'm also new and have only taken 4 weekend trips. Definite roll which I'll address with the CHF and then reasses.
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08-24-2017, 07:46 AM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Vista, CA
Posts: 294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AITG
After 6000 miles DW and I are happy with our Bay Star with nothing more than an alignment and adjusted tire pressures. Body roll doesn't affect the tracking. We needed to get used to it. We did.
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I think that's part of it as well, a Class A certainly requires some getting used to. I read some really good advice on this forum one time. Essentially, try to look and steer a bit further down the road. Before seeing this advice, I tended to be making constant corrections and over corrections. Looking and steering further down the road helped be be smoother and go much straighter.
__________________
Newmar, Baystar 3401 (Lucille) towing 2008 Wrangler 6 speed with Ready Brute Elite bar attached to Blue Ox Baseplate
Formerly 2005 Winnebago Minnie 31C
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