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Old 03-14-2019, 09:47 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nadge View Post

I take exception with your comment above. "We know the risks" REALLY?
You give yourself and others like "FLJOE's" 2-02-19 post, too much credit as, " know it all" tinker's.

I agree with "SamBlust's" 2-01-19 post whole hardly.

Hold your horses, I'm getting to my point.

You guys only mention liquid or vapor backup concerns. Ever hear of E.coli?
Do you think bacteria can't get passed your "Brass check valves" and migrate into your potable water supply, as well as putting the camp grounds potable water system at risk?

Think about the mechanics of your installation. You will provide an open ended flush line that sits in the sewage liquid for hours and days at a time. All the while every flush will raise the liquid level and as it rises it exerts water column pressure into the line you intend to hard connect to your potable water supply line, correct?

Try passing this idea past the local board of health inspector and see what he thinks of hard piping potable water supply to a flush water sewer tank line.
(Yes, even in a RV, Travel Trailer, Fifth wheeler etc. the same principal health issues apply).

Only comment to this reply, after you contact a BOH inspector and POST HIS RESPONSE.

Respectfully submitted and hope this reply is food for thought.

PS. Why do you think most building department for housing construction requires the potable water line installation maintain 3 ft separation from the sewer line installation? 3 feet, with dirt in between even!

Two questions for you:
1) Since in most parks there's only one water source in a campsite how do you propose people perform a tank flush? I'm would expect most people use a hose attached to the site water source or from a T or Y type connector.

2) In our S&Bs the fresh water system is only air gapped from the toilet system. This is a very moist environment ideal for all sorts of bacteria. Now how is that really different from the air gap system in our RVs? I think many people are trying to add another layers of protection to that system.
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:39 AM   #58
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For those of us that like to automate things...the Sonoff / Barker black tank valve project thread and this one comes together.

T off the fresh water line to an electric water solenoid (electrically connected to another Sonoff relay or a ZWave valve) to a T on the Black tank (and / or Grey) flush lines and have an automation controller sequence and time the flush.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorized-Val...ag=googhydr-20

I would put an electric switch in the water bay that is manually switched when the waste system is connected to a campground septic system.

Then, with each programmed tank flush, automatically fresh water flush the tank. Close the fresh valve, close the waste valve.

For worriers, put a manual shutoff valve between the fresh T and the solenoid to put the system into Manual mode when you disconnect the RV from the campgrounds facilities. Follow that by switching OFF the electric switch.

As a further safety, one could also wire into the black tank level sensors to never flush the tank if it was more than empty. Would have to experiment if the act of flushing fools the level sensor into believing the tank is more than empty...but that is addressable within the automation controller to dampen the leveling input...ie: use the average of the last minute's level data to establish liquid level percent..

For me, I would ensure the valve is electrically closed, and then use a DPDT electric switch to disable the power feed that feeds both the water valve and the waste valves.

I have done similar to automate the winterizing of my S&B irrigation system electrically coordinating an Air solenoid and the irrigation zone water valves to push the water out of the system. Same could be done to winterize an RV coach (at least the air portion). Still recommend antifreeze as a final step towards winterizing.
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Old 03-15-2019, 11:04 AM   #59
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I hard plumbed my water line to the black tank cleaner. Very easy do. Take a good brass "y" valve with shutoffs on each inlet. Hooked the one side directly to coach water inlet. I put an elbow fitting on the incoming water side and connected my water filter between the valve and water hose. Then I put a 6"hose extension hose on the other valve of the y and connected it to an elbow on my black tank flush connection. I will empty my black tank. Turn off the water valve to the coach inlet and turn on the valve to my black tank washers. There is no back pressure this way when I'm done I just switched off the valve to the black tank washers and turned on my Coach water supply. Easy simple no pressure to back up . As far as someone in the park messing with the valves while I'm gone ..... that's what locks on doors are for. If you're worried about someone having the same key as everyone else in the park change your locks. I got locks with barrel keys. Not many around and keep the doors to the bins locked when you are gone. Simple. If you pissed your neighbor off to the point that he would mess with your water valves while you are gone then you must not be a friendly neighbor.
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Old 03-15-2019, 05:41 PM   #60
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Of course. But some want an always connected system to just turn on water and do a black tank rinse. The objective is not to connect or disconnect anything. Right now I think my design will be an on/off valve in a 90 degree fitting at the rinse connector and a quick disconnect at the hose bibb with a check/backflow valve inline.
NealC .. . mine is somewhat along these lines but w/o the check valve. Most of the time it is in the unconnected position so there is an airgap. It is only connected when I use it. My main goal was making it easy to do without hooking up a separate hose.

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Old 03-15-2019, 07:30 PM   #61
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Great idea. It would be nice to have quick disconnects. Haven't checked to see if they make them for water lines. Seems both ways still I think shows that there isn't any way for black tank fumes to get into fresh water system especially when there can't be any back pressure.
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:59 PM   #62
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Our connected flush system continues to work great. No one has died, yet.
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Old 03-15-2019, 08:40 PM   #63
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I got to looking closer and is this a quick disconnect fitting you have on this line? Can't tell
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Old 03-16-2019, 02:18 AM   #64
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I got to looking closer and is this a quick disconnect fitting you have on this line? Can't tell
Stevemarshia … yes where I connect the white backwash hose to the blue cold water spigot, I use a quick disconnect fitting.

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Old 03-16-2019, 04:38 AM   #65
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Very similar to the system I'm using, except I included a "Y" connector that I shortened to mix hot and cold. I also have a quick connect on the shower wand.
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