Community Forums

DGBPokes · 09-25-2012, 03:07 PM

I am really frustrated with my NeverCOLD refridgerator, and yes I have spent the money for an Amish unit. But still after spending mega bucks things don't work.

I am really interested in the threads regarding conversion to the Samsung RF 197 fridge. At this point, it appears that this is not an option for my Newmar KStar 04. It looks to me like it just won't fit, even if I remove the floor and reinstall it with a lowered shelf over the heater. I read the specs for Samsung and they are 70" H- 32 1/4" W- 28 1/2" D. I realize you can gain a couple of inches removing the refridge door. However, it looks like it still won't work.
If I lower the shelf right over the heater, to the ceiling is 70 1/4" very, close, with a 1/2" thick shelf, it won't fit.
Width is 30", I need 32 1/4" won't fit
Depth looks okay. 26 1/4" in rig and I think I can tolerate the 2 1/4" protrusion.
And lastly, just getting the thing into the rig. RV door 24 3/8". Looks very tight. I read where some have had to remove a window or windshield to get frigs in and out.
Does anyone have experience with this installation. Or know of a house refridgerator that has smaller dimensions.

450Donn · 09-25-2012, 03:19 PM

whats going on with your existing refer?

tims52ford · 09-25-2012, 03:37 PM

x2 what's wrong with your norcold or whatever you called it?

tom chelbana · 09-25-2012, 04:46 PM

A year ago we replaced our Norcold with a Whirlpool 22 ft. in our 04 Essex. Almost a perfect fit. About 2 inches taller but were able to fit in with removing top cabinet piece. 33 wide and 66 high and the same depth as Norcold. ED2GVEX 01 model. Works great and went in side window behind drivers seat by taking the doors off both fridges,

DGBPokes · 09-25-2012, 05:03 PM

Last summer the temp was inconsistent. And I had two recalls from Norcold. I investigated the reason for the recalls, and learned,that rigs were catching on fire due to,poor material quality with the Norcold cooling unit. Rather,than a recall to correct the defect (the right thing to do) the put their finger in the dyke, and introduced an electrical cutoff for when the unit starts to leak. The first recall was for that module, but they screwed that up, and had,to make the second recall with an improved module. Rather than worry about fire, And spend anymore money buying a rebuilt Norcold, I purchased an Amish cooling unit and had it installed. It seemed to work great at first, 35 degrees on a setting of 4 this spring. This summer, in Oklahoma it would hold 39 one day and go up to 58 the next day, with the setting on 9. The factory rep for the Amish unit thought the installation was not done properly, so I took it to,one of their "authorized" installers who did correct a couple of things and reinstalled it. Better by a few degrees, but still not correct. The explanation from Norcold techs was, the insulation in the box must be compromised. You need to buy a new unit. I am now out $1,800 bucks, my refrigerator isn't hold temps consistently,a nd my ice maker that did work does not work, even on those days when the temp is good. And the fix is another $1600 to $ 1900 for a "rebuilt" Norcold. Got to be a better solution.

450Donn · 09-25-2012, 07:00 PM

Replace it with a 1100 dollar Dometic I think would have been my solution. But since you want a residential refer, go for it. You should be able to find a decent priced compressor refer that will fit in the existing space with little to no modifications. Please give us your existing cut out dimensions and I am sure someone will find a model that will fit for you.

KIX · 09-25-2012, 07:18 PM

You could make the shelf and shelf support from steel angle so that the shelf could be thinner. All you need structurally is something to support the 4 corners and allow it to roll in and out of the opening for service.
Somewhere on irv2 are some posts of someone that installed the Samsung RF197 in a coach that had a furnace under the reefer. IIRC they reported that the furnace required clearance was 0 inches.

BTW here is a before and after of our RF 197 install.

927palmetto · 09-26-2012, 07:07 AM

I just completed the installation of a RF 197 in my 2005 MADP.
If you are convinced that the RF 197 is too wide, or too tall, there are other refrigerators available. Go to AJ Madison's website. You will find specifications there.
If you have a modified sine wave inverter and you plan to run the fridge on the inverter, your refrigerator choices will be somewhat limited.
You will need a minimum of 1" clearance above the furnace. To detemine the maximum height available, measure from 1" off of the furnace to the ceiling. If your refrigerator compartment is constucted like mine, the face of the compartment is trimmed on the top and the sides. The top piece of trim can be removed, and the side pieces of trim can be cut to increase available width.
What Norcold model are you replacing? I replaced a 1200, and the Samsung was a pretty good fit in the compartment, after the base for the fridge had been lowered about 6.5".
I had chronic problems with the two Norcolds (new and replacement) installed in my coach. I learned a lot about them in the process of trying to get them to cool correctly. The 1200 is notorious for its lack of cooling issues and as a fire hazard. The unit is extremely "installation sensitive." If you are certain the unit is installed correctly, with proper fan operation, and good door seals (another chronic problem), the cooling unit may be bad. The Amish built units perform much better than OEM or rebuilt units, but the can be defective, too. My friend just received a replacement Amish cooling unit from the manufacturer after determining that the first one did not operate properly due to a manufacturing defect.

DGBPokes · 09-26-2012, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 927palmetto

I just completed the installation of a RF 197 in my 2005 MADP.
If you are convinced that the RF 197 is too wide, or too tall, there are other refrigerators available. Go to AJ Madison's website. You will find specifications there.
If you have a modified sine wave inverter and you plan to run the fridge on the inverter, your refrigerator choices will be somewhat limited.
You will need a minimum of 1" clearance above the furnace. To detemine the maximum height available, measure from 1" off of the furnace to the ceiling. If your refrigerator compartment is constucted like mine, the face of the compartment is trimmed on the top and the sides. The top piece of trim can be removed, and the side pieces of trim can be cut to increase available width.
What Norcold model are you replacing? I replaced a 1200, and the Samsung was a pretty good fit in the compartment, after the base for the fridge had been lowered about 6.5".
I had chronic problems with the two Norcolds (new and replacement) installed in my coach. I learned a lot about them in the process of trying to get them to cool correctly. The 1200 is notorious for its lack of cooling issues and as a fire hazard. The unit is extremely "installation sensitive." If you are certain the unit is installed correctly, with proper fan operation, and good door seals (another chronic problem), the cooling unit may be bad. The Amish built units perform much better than OEM or rebuilt units, but the can be defective, too. My friend just received a replacement Amish cooling unit from the manufacturer after determining that the first one did not operate properly due to a manufacturing defect.

Yes, I have the Norcold 1200. You comment about seal problems, I haven't thought about seals being a problem . Any suggestions on how to check and what to do. Secondly, I have no clue what a modified sine wave converter is, and would assume I do not have one. I bought the rig used 4 years ago, it has had two solar panels added, but I know almost zero about inverters.

rebelone · 09-26-2012, 10:56 AM

To check your fridg door seals, take a dollar bill close the door on it. There should be a small resistance as you pull the bill out, check the seal several places around the seal area. This is one way to check the fridg door seals.
Good Luck
rebel

927palmetto · 09-26-2012, 11:17 AM

The "dollar bill test" is commonly used to test the operation of the door seals, but it is somewhat subjective. I suspected that my door seals were weak, because the performance of my fridge decreased somewhat suddenly, and because I started getting excess condensation on the cooling fins and the top of the fridge, an indicator of outside air instrusion.
I researched the issue for a fix. I learned that the door seals contained magnets, which can become weak over time. I also learned that Norcold will not sell the door seals. You have to buy the entire door. This fact, coupled with Norcold's lousy customer service, the recalls, the fires, and the questionable condition of my cooling unit, caused me to abandon my efforts to get my Norcold to work properly and install a residential fridge.
The people on this forum can help you determine if you have an inverter, and the type and size of the inverter, if you decide to further investigate a residential fridge. If you are replacing a 1200, the Samsung should fit in the compartment with the modifications.

DGBPokes · 09-26-2012, 03:34 PM

Thanks for all of the good information. As I read about sine wave inverters, it sparks( pun intended :-) questions. If I add a sine wave inverter, it would convert coach battery power to 110 volt, and the alternator could charge the batteries as you drive done the road. To keep the fridge going while driving. I am confused about having two power sources for one input line to the fridge. When connected to shore power I would think you would want to use shore power to operate the fridge. When going down the road, or one night at Walmart, to run off the inverter. How do you address that? Two different power inputs to the fridge.

Secondly, RVs have " converters" that take shore power 110 v and convert it to 12 v DC. for lots of things in the RV. The inverter would via for the same battery power used to run the 12 v stuff. That could reduce the battery power pretty quick. I have 2 Interstate 6v batteries deep cycle in series with a good size solar panel.....

Where would you mount the new inverter?

Renden · 09-26-2012, 05:08 PM

I have 4X6 volts for my house and have a Xantrex convertor-invertor - you have a Newmar - you might need more batteries to keep the Fridge going ???

My 1200 Norcold works fine, but I do not live in the desert - Canada

450Donn · 09-26-2012, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGBPokes

Thanks for all of the good information. As I read about sine wave inverters, it sparks( pun intended :-) questions. If I add a sine wave inverter, it would convert coach battery power to 110 volt, and the alternator could charge the batteries as you drive done the road. To keep the fridge going while driving. I am confused about having two power sources for one input line to the fridge. When connected to shore power I would think you would want to use shore power to operate the fridge. When going down the road, or one night at Walmart, to run off the inverter. How do you address that? Two different power inputs to the fridge.

Secondly, RVs have " converters" that take shore power 110 v and convert it to 12 v DC. for lots of things in the RV. The inverter would via for the same battery power used to run the 12 v stuff. That could reduce the battery power pretty quick. I have 2 Interstate 6v batteries deep cycle in series with a good size solar panel.....

Where would you mount the new inverter?

In your case if you have a generator also you will then need a three way auto transfer switch, or wire the refer outlet only directly into the inverter and run it 100% of the time on the inverter