Help Newmar slide out controller 310

[IamGadget]

all of a sudden...i am trying to get to FMCA rally in winston-salem...and my slide will not come in....New house batteries, new chassis batteries...
We checked and the drivers side slide came in...
it appears that two slide out controllers might be bad...we checked the voltage and the controllers are getting 13+ volts in but the relay or whatever will not trip. The green light goes on on the wall switch but no motor noise or anything....so....it appears..( so we think ) that two controllers are bad....
Does anyone know if it pays for me to buy them somewhere.....is there a place with good pricing?.....I will call the Good Sam RV insurance to see it they are covered... I am in a campground over an hour away from any RV center ( and not a big one )...any suggestions would be appreciated....many thanks...Allen aka Gadget

[ronmc]

Put it in manually. There's an instruction list on the wall or somewhere.Give you some time.

["007"]

Have you checked the ground feeding the controllers its common to both.
Here is information on controllers and the slides operation.
It does not seem likely both controllers just quit.
I'd also pull plugs and reset them also check the screw connections on wires in your fuse panel they can loosen up from vibration.
If all else fails you can release torque nut on shafts and turn with wrench to close them.

[Always-RVing]

Yes, it sounds like something else going on. One slide not working? Check for obstacles. Do you hear the solenoid click? Does the slide attempt to move at all? Sheer pin okay? Loose wiring, low voltage.

["007"]

You have a pot on controller that can be turned up in small increments very small, you do not want to over do it can cause damage to fascia of slide, because of force applied by low toque motor.
Your dealing with two motors and controllers.
If you have someone operate the push button and you have a meter hooked up at motor you should see the 13V and if botton operated again see a reversal of battery still 13V's.
Motor 1&2 leads will also show the reversal the two leads go to one motor off that controller.

[IamGadget]

Originally Posted by "007"

You have a pot on controller that can be turned up in small increments very small, you do not want to over do it can cause damage to fascia of slide, because of force applied by low toque motor.
Your dealing with two motors and controllers.
If you have someone operate the push button and you have a meter hooked up at motor you should see the 13V and if botton operated again see a reversal of battery still 13V's.
Motor 1&2 leads will also show the reversal the two leads go to one motor off that controller.

thank you..we did get the 13 volts...and we took the 12volt power wire and the ground wire and put them into motor 1 and 2 and the slide started to move....we stopped to do further research...

[pkmesser]

Originally Posted by 007";980131]Have you checked the ground feeding the controllers its common to both.
Here is information on[B][URL="http://www.mccampingsupplies.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=549_629&pro ducts_id=8300&zenid=pdoojhv88tfhri3la3oe3vqca0

controllers[/URL][/B] and the slides operation.
It does not seem likely both controllers just quit.
I'd also pull plugs and reset them also check the screw connections on wires in your fuse panel they can loosen up from vibration.
If all else fails you can release torque nut on shafts and turn with wrench to close them.

I believe, (because I have done it), that you only release the torque nuts if you want to push the slide in by sheer force. Otherwise, you probably have a nut on the gear drive that can be turned with a ratchet, that will move the slide, just like the motor. Slow, but it works.

[IamGadget]

thanks for all the info..
my friend took the 12V power wire and the ground wire and put them into the motor one and motor two..this caused the slide to move in and when he reversed them the slide moved out...( i think that was what he did ) I will give him all the new note tomorrow....and hopefully i will not need to buy 2 controllers. thanks again, Allen aka Gadget

[IamGadget]

Originally Posted by 007";980131]Have you checked the ground feeding the controllers its common to both.
Here is information on[B][URL="http://www.mccampingsupplies.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=549_629&pro ducts_id=8300&zenid=pdoojhv88tfhri3la3oe3vqca0

controllers[/URL][/B] and the slides operation.
It does not seem likely both controllers just quit.
I'd also pull plugs and reset them also check the screw connections on wires in your fuse panel they can loosen up from vibration.
If all else fails you can release torque nut on shafts and turn with wrench to close them.

thanks for all the info..
my friend took the 12V power wire and the ground wire and put them into the motor one and motor two..this caused the slide to move in and when he reversed them the slide moved out...( i think that was what he did ) I will give him all the new note tomorrow....and hopefully i will not need to buy 2 controllers. thanks again, Allen aka Gadget

["007"]

I have found that the nut on shaft with shaft free from motor that its a one man job of moving slide in or out on a flat floor slide, the newer ones with a slope up to floor of coach will require some extra help to get it up slope.

["007"]

Allen did you see 13V on motor leads at the motor when operating the button for controller operation?
If you do not see it you may need a controller as you have said.
The motor is operating OK but needs that 13V from controller the pot may give you that with small adjustments.

[ottffss]

First check 007 response above.

If you do NOT have voltage (any voltage) AT THE MOTOR when switch is pressed and held, it may also be a proximity switch issue and not the controller. If someone in your CG has the magic Newmar/Intellitec slide controller "tool" that will be your verification (and salvation).

Might it also be the slide out switch itself? Swap the leads on the switch with the one next to it or just jump the wires to see if that might be the problem.

Like 007 also said, the slide "torque nut" MUST be released in order to brute force push the slide in using a half dozen hefty dudes on the ramped slides. It'll take a 1.5in open end wrench (preferably a crows foot tool) and 150ft. lbs. torque to release.

You can also use the 9/16 (or so) manual operation nut on the motor housing to hand roll it in. Use a nut driver in a variable speed drill.

If it is a controller, take a working one off the frame rail and just swap it in every time you need to open/close a slide. If it's a proximity switch that's a lot more involved. Just buying controllers is probably futile, they really don't go bad that often. It is usually all the other switches in the circuit.

[IamGadget]

Originally Posted by ottffss

First check 007 response above.

If you do NOT have voltage (any voltage) AT THE MOTOR when switch is pressed and held, it may also be a proximity switch issue and not the controller. If someone in your CG has the magic Newmar/Intellitec slide controller "tool" that will be your verification (and salvation).

Might it also be the slide out switch itself? Swap the leads on the switch with the one next to it or just jump the wires to see if that might be the problem.

Like 007 also said, the slide "torque nut" MUST be released in order to brute force push the slide in using a half dozen hefty dudes on the ramped slides. It'll take a 1.5in open end wrench (preferably a crows foot tool) and 150ft. lbs. torque to release.

You can also use the 9/16 (or so) manual operation nut on the motor housing to hand roll it in. Use a nut driver in a variable speed drill.

If it is a controller, take a working one off the frame rail and just swap it in every time you need to open/close a slide. If it's a proximity switch that's a lot more involved. Just buying controllers is probably futile, they really don't go bad that often. It is usually all the other switches in the circuit.

Thank you....i will try whatever i can with my limited knowledge...and i am all by myself....Single guy....and the campground is empty...closed for the season....just me....thanks again..

[IamGadget]

Originally Posted by "007"

Allen did you see 13V on motor leads at the motor when operating the button for controller operation?
If you do not see it you may need a controller as you have said.
The motor is operating OK but needs that 13V from controller the pot may give you that with small adjustments.

the 13+ volts was taken from the controller.....then my friend took the wires from the controller . 1 wire said ( on the controller printout ) was a +12 volt Power and the other wire said Ground. He took these two wires and touched it to the motor 1 and motor 2 in the controller and the motor went on and the slide started to move....but we stopped bringing it in for two reasons...one is that we did want to make sure we can do this without harm....and the other is that i was not 100% prepared to have them in at the moment.
So if by touching the wires brings them all the way in...at least i can get to a service center. It is odd that two controllers are not working.. The Voice one ( third one ) does work. I did have the Alternator changed just before this happened and i wonder if they shorted something.
Maybe i have a common wire loose....Much of this is over my head....although you and others are helping a lot...many thanks