Help with MH Mod

[DaveDS4018]

Hello,

Yesterday I ventured into the world of MH Mods.

There are several on the forum that I thought would be a good addition to my MH. I thank all who have thought up these ideas so others could make their MH better.

So far I have built a shelf on the drivers side over the slide out tray to hold my extension ladder.

Changed out the outside shower to two washing machine faucets and connected the cold one directly to my black tank rinse. No more black hose to mess with.

Added two additional controllers to the overhead above the bed. Each of them now controls a single window on each side of the bed. I can now open the blind on my window and wife can keep hers closed.

Now for the one I need help with. Started to install struts on hood for access to generator. Installed brackets to frame. I could not get strut it to compress so I thought it would help if it was attached to something sturdy. Installed it to bracket and tried the turning clockwise suggestion on the information sheet. Still did not compress. I am worried that if I connect the other end to the hood I will not be able to compress the strut with the hood and get it closed.

Those of you that have installed the struts how did you get them to compress? Did you compress them before they were attached to the hood or was the weight of the hood along with your help enough to compress the struts and close the hood?

Looking for any help you can provide. Would like to complete the installation if at all possible. Tired of holding up the hood with one hand while other is trying to hook a rod in a hole.

I also plan to call Lift Supports Depot tomorrow to see if they can provide any help.

Dave C.

[engine103]

Some have used a ratchet strap to compress. It really didn't work for me but I see how it could work for some. I replaced my engine access lid (Monaco) with new struts and was able to hyper extend the lid about 1/2 inch, installed without problem. Make sure you have the proper length rod and the correct pressure resistance.

[LJowdy]

Here's a thread regarding your generator hood project http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/dutc...ed-211095.html

Don, the author used 40 lb struts. This was on his old coach which did not have the generator mounted on a slide out.


On page 2 of the above thread is what I did to install the gas struts.
I basically copied his idea and used the same struts as he did but, because my generator was on a slide, I had to modify the bottom mounts. It doesn't sound like much but 40 lb struts are very tough to collapse.
I found that if you placed one end on the ground and drilled a 1 inch hole partially into a 2x4, place the top end of the strut into the partial hole (that way it won't move) then pretty much lay on top of the 2x4 and it will compress. Actually I never had to compress the strut during installation, I just attached the strut to the generator compartment lid then attached it to the bottom bracket and then tightened up the bolts that hold the bottom bracket in place.

By the way, the 40 lb struts worked perfectly and I think anything less wouldn't hold up the lid.

[Capt. Bill]

I assume you know there are different weight gas struts? Maybe you have too heavy of a strut? They are rated in lbs they will raise. I wouldn't think you would need ave 2 each 10-15 lbs.. Can you secure the cylinder like in a vice & use a 2"X 4" as a prey bar against the piston to get it to collapse? Will the piston move at all?

Most gas struts are mounted with the piston end when closed slightly past the vertical plumb line of the cylinder to keep the door or hood closed.

Good luck & Happy Trails

[Dutch Star Don]

There should be no need to compress the strut. You really don't want to FORCE your hood to the fully open positioned, as the hinges may dig into the fiberglass edge under the windshield. With the struts mounted to the top or bottom position, open the hood as far as it goes and snap on the strut end that is not already connected. If you can't, your strut may be too long.

[twinboat]

Ever wonder why the manufactures don't connect the black tank rinse to the domestic water system ?

[Renipladlo]

I'll answer that. It's because black tank can infect the fresh water system and everyone aboard will get sick as heck. The black tank rinse should NEVER be connected to any part of the fresh water system. When you hook up the black tank rinse, you should use a one way check valve (see below) on the campground fresh water supply connection, so there is not any back flow. It's required in sprinkler systems, since those are connected to the city fresh water system, it's assumed bad things which get into the sprinklers themselves could get pulled into the fresh water supply, again, things in the dirt get you sick. See this link-have been using this item for 9 years: https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A01-...4RD0JXD7GGXR42

[DaveDS4018]

I thank everyone for their reply and info.

Still trying to figure out the black tank rinse as it relates to the hood strut.

Don,

Measuring without the strut attached it's length will keep the hood in the same position as when you use the original attached hood rod. So if their length does not change after install I do not think they are too long.

I have a concern that I can not get then to compress before I even try to install them. And I am concerned that after I do install them the hood + ME will not be enough to compress the struts and get the hood closed.

I am waiting for the Lift Support Depot people to wake up on the West Coast so I can give them a call an see how I can ease my concerns.

Thanks to everyone.

Dave C.

[Dutch Star Don]

Dave.....it's really difficult to compress those pistons by hand. I don't even try. Once they're installed, use both hands and push down the hood. There is a happy medium with the pressure. If you have to use all your strength to close the hood, they're too strong. If you attach the pistons and the hood wants to slowly close, unassisted, they're too weak.

When I first did the hood mod, I had to order different pistons then what I originally bought as they were too weak. Figuring the length without knowing how to do all kinds of math, which I don't, is tough. So is figuring the pressure of the piston needed. A typical piston, lets say 28", doesn't close to half it's length. It may be 16" or 17" long when fully closed, not 14" as you might expect. I just installed the struts on my 2019 DS. I knew the hood was substantially smaller and lighter than the 2014 DS hood. I had to go with much lighter piston pressure.

You need to just install them and then try closing the hood. If they need to come off, you just slip a small awl or screwdriver into the notch at the rear of the socket where clip that holds the ball and socket together is located. Just pry it back a little and the ball will release from the socket.

For others who are trying to figure piston length, I use a magnet on a telescoping shaft (Harbor Freight) and get an idea how much it collapses as I move the item I want to add pistons to.

[LJowdy]

Originally Posted by DaveDS4018

I thank everyone for their reply and info.

Still trying to figure out the black tank rinse as it relates to the hood strut.

Dave,
Obviously it doesn't but you listed it as one of your modifications in your first post. Sounds good in theory but in reality probably not a great idea, especially as it relates to health issues.

Larry

[Dutch Star Don]

Regarding the flush hose......you unknowingly touched on a hot topic issue for many people when you mentioned the hose connection. I'm sure you don't leave it connected.

I tapped into my main water line where it comes out of the hose reel and ran a line to the black tank flush. I added a ball valve in between and a quick connect to the black tank flush. I leave it disconnected when not in use. When I want to flush, I connect the hose and open the ball valve.

With my setup, I feel pretty safe between the backflow valve on the black tank flush, ball valve and quick disconnect. I feel confident that there will be no cross contamination, yet my system is easy to use.

[DaveDS4018]

Don,

Thank you for the additional info. I talked to the people at Lift Supports Depot today and they said I would never be able to compress the struts without them being hooked to something. Recommended I attach the struts and with the weight of the hood and what support I could provide the hood should close. If it does not call them back and talk about a different pair of struts.

So tomorrow or Wed I will install the struts and see if the hood closes and latches. If so I will not need to hold up the hood anymore.

To all others,

Sorry I did not associate the shower replacement valves and the connection to the black tank rinse as being a hot topic.

However, I failed to provide all of the information on the mod. There are two shutoff valves, one at each end of the hose, a backflow preventer, and a quick disconnect attached to the 90 degree fitting that attaches to the black tank rinse - which allows me to disconnect the hose after rinsing the tank.

I do plan a different mod later similar to what others have done. I will tap into the incoming water line and place a pressure valve along with several t-fittings and shutoff valves to better control the water coming into the MH and where it goes - filter or tank rinse.

I thank all who pointed out the dangers of mixing the fresh water supply and the black tank waste.

David C.

[DaveDS4018]

Update on Strut Mod

Finally got the time to finish installing the struts on the coach hood.

Everything worked out just fine. After following the advice of several individuals on the forum and the people on the West coast everything went together as they should have and they work great.

Sense this went so well I am going to try the the Push-to-close-Latch on the radiator door. Have the parts just need to cut metal and drill holes.

Thanks to all for their help.

Dave C.