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Old 04-25-2018, 04:04 PM   #1
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Hot water drain plug

Dumb newbie question. Where is the hot water drain plug on a 2014 Canyon Star? I just got it and am trying to de-winterize and sanitize the coach. For reasons I don't want to go into now,I don't want to call the dealer where I purchased it. He is not a Newmar dealer. I'd call Newmar but they close at 4:00p.m.
Thanks
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Old 04-25-2018, 04:14 PM   #2
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IF it is a Suburban or Atwood Brand the water heater drain plug is in outside compartment where gas valve/burner is.

Suburban uses an 'anode rod' drain plug.....3/4" dia/9 1/2" long sacrificial rod to protect steel glass-lined tank
Use a 6 point 1 1/16"socket

Atwood uses a 1/2" NYLON drain plug due to aluminum tank/threads
7/8" or 15/16" socket (depends on which NYLON plug used)
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Old 04-25-2018, 04:14 PM   #3
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The size of the drain plug varies between the two different manufacturers , but they are in a similar location , bottom center of the outside of the heater , slightly hidden by the propane burner tube.

The water heater should have been isolated and drained during the winterization process so there should be no need to re-drain the tank . You want to flush all the pink from the lines ( hot and cold ) before you open the by-pass valves and fill the heater tank.

EDIT: I see Old-Biscuit and I tied in posting the same info.
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Old 04-25-2018, 04:22 PM   #4
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Hot water drain plug

Quote:
Originally Posted by dck22 View Post
.....Dumb newbie question. Where is the hot water drain plug on a 2014 Canyon Star? I just got it and am trying to de-winterize and sanitize the coach....Thanks

In my Dutch Star there are hot and cold low point drains in the water bay, but to specifically drain the water heater tank I believe you should remove the anode or the electric element, whichever is lower in the tank. The anode is usually mounted very low, but if you have an Atwood heater, which generally have no anode, there may just be a drain plug.
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Old 04-25-2018, 05:03 PM   #5
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It is an Atwood 10 gal. I cannot find a nylon or any type of plug in the compartment. Ignition, pressure release valve and thermostat are about it.
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Old 04-25-2018, 05:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFXG View Post
In my Dutch Star there are hot and cold low point drains in the water bay, but to specifically drain the water heater tank I believe you should remove the anode or the electric element, whichever is lower in the tank. The anode is usually mounted very low, but if you have an Atwood heater, which generally have no anode, there may just be a drain plug.
We are getting close... Does the hot low point drain also drain some / most of the water from the tank? If so that will suit my purpose.
Thanks
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Old 04-25-2018, 05:54 PM   #7
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Nylon plug on the 10 Gallon Atwood goes below the gas regulator:
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As you can see mine is out.
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Old 04-25-2018, 07:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dck22 View Post
Dumb newbie question. Where is the hot water drain plug on a 2014 Canyon Star? I just got it and am trying to de-winterize and sanitize the coach. For reasons I don't want to go into now,I don't want to call the dealer where I purchased it. He is not a Newmar dealer. I'd call Newmar but they close at 4:00p.m.
Thanks
Live just south of you in PA and have a 2014 CS3911. Too bad you don't have the owners manual and other manuals - they would have been in a large black case. The manual has a nice section on winterizing and de-winterizing. If you would like you could email me and I would be glad to assist and send copy of page to you.

During winterization the water heater is generally bypassed by turning a couple of valves to isolate it from getting filled with antifreeze. Unless you have reversed the bypass the low point drain will not drain the water tank. I have never used the low point drain to empty the water heater even though I suppose it would work as long as not bypassed. The tank drain is best and provide drainage of sediment from tank.

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Old 04-25-2018, 08:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luv2go View Post
Nylon plug on the 10 Gallon Atwood goes below the gas regulator:
Attachment 200474
As you can see mine is out.


Ahhhh, the picture and the proverbial 1000 words. In my case the plug has been replaced by a brass valve that opens and closes by twisting a pin in the center. I didn't know what it was and definitely did not recognize it as a valve.

Thanks to all who came to my aid!
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Old 04-25-2018, 08:24 PM   #10
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2014 CS OWNERS GUIDE another important link.
All the links below in my signature have answers for your Newmar.
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Old 04-25-2018, 08:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007";4157507][B][URL="https://newpar.newmarcorp.com/instance1Env99NEWMAR/html/images/2014CSCAOG.pdf
2014 CS OWNERS GUIDE[/URL][/B] another important link.
All the links below in my signature have answers for your Newmar.


Thanks!
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Old 04-26-2018, 12:15 AM   #12
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Ahhhh, the picture and the proverbial 1000 words. In my case the plug has been replaced by a brass valve that opens and closes by twisting a pin in the center. I didn't know what it was and definitely did not recognize it as a valve.

Thanks to all who came to my aid!
Do yourself a big favor and remove that pet cock and chuck it in the trash
Atwood drain hole is 1/2" ----pet cock is 1/8"
Yes water will drain but all the crud/sediment will remain behind
Bet water heater hasn't be flushed/rinse since pet cock got installed

PLUS if the drain hole thread become damaged..........new tank
That is one reason NYLON Plug was used. NYLON threads will NOT damage aluminum threads
Nylon also used (vs PVC/CPVC) due to HIGH Temp/Pressure ratings
(T&P Relief Valve Pops Open at 210*F/150PSI)

After you remove that pet cock.....turn water supply ON, Stand BACK and LET IT BLOW so the crud/sediment flushes out----POWER FLUSH!!

NYLON Plugs come TWO to package.
One to use and one for backup spare.
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Old 04-27-2018, 06:41 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Do yourself a big favor and remove that pet cock and chuck it in the trash
Atwood drain hole is 1/2" ----pet cock is 1/8"
Yes water will drain but all the crud/sediment will remain behind
Bet water heater hasn't be flushed/rinse since pet cock got installed

PLUS if the drain hole thread become damaged..........new tank
That is one reason NYLON Plug was used. NYLON threads will NOT damage aluminum threads
Nylon also used (vs PVC/CPVC) due to HIGH Temp/Pressure ratings
(T&P Relief Valve Pops Open at 210*F/150PSI)

After you remove that pet cock.....turn water supply ON, Stand BACK and LET IT BLOW so the crud/sediment flushes out----POWER FLUSH!!

NYLON Plugs come TWO to package.
One to use and one for backup spare.
Thanks, I will do that.
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Old 04-30-2018, 08:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Do yourself a big favor and remove that pet cock and chuck it in the trash
Atwood drain hole is 1/2" ----pet cock is 1/8"
Yes water will drain but all the crud/sediment will remain behind
Bet water heater hasn't be flushed/rinse since pet cock got installed

PLUS if the drain hole thread become damaged..........new tank
That is one reason NYLON Plug was used. NYLON threads will NOT damage aluminum threads
Nylon also used (vs PVC/CPVC) due to HIGH Temp/Pressure ratings
(T&P Relief Valve Pops Open at 210*F/150PSI)

After you remove that pet cock.....turn water supply ON, Stand BACK and LET IT BLOW so the crud/sediment flushes out----POWER FLUSH!!

NYLON Plugs come TWO to package.
One to use and one for backup spare.
I've now tried nylon replacement plugs for Atwood heaters from two sources. None will thread properly into my tank. The brass pet cock appears to have a different thread. I guess I am stuck with the brass pet cock.
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