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Old 04-21-2007, 06:33 AM   #1
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Just checked my house batteries, the 4 took nearly 1/2 gal of distilled water. Plus, there is corrosion on the front battery tie-down brackets, a small amount on one terminal and a large amount on the metal plate under the battery slide out try.

I've used the spray-on corrosion remover & will use a preventive spray when all drys, but my question is - Why is this happening? Are my batteries boiling? I know I live in a hot climate but this appears to be excessive.

Mark
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Old 04-21-2007, 06:33 AM   #2
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Just checked my house batteries, the 4 took nearly 1/2 gal of distilled water. Plus, there is corrosion on the front battery tie-down brackets, a small amount on one terminal and a large amount on the metal plate under the battery slide out try.

I've used the spray-on corrosion remover & will use a preventive spray when all drys, but my question is - Why is this happening? Are my batteries boiling? I know I live in a hot climate but this appears to be excessive.

Mark
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Old 04-21-2007, 02:16 PM   #3
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I get the same thing Doc not as much water added but corroded buckles,straps and pull out tray. Coach plugged in most of the time even in winter so will always check battery water.
Have replaced straps and painted tray and cleaned terminals. They do sell some disks that are suppose to help with corrosion and a spray for connections may try them on next maintenance job.
The batteries just venting will cause this has happen on all my MH's.
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Old 04-21-2007, 03:57 PM   #4
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I agree with "007". Today I checked the water level in the batteries which was fine, but as always, I had to spray an anticorrosive agent on the strap holders and parts of the tray. I do not overfill the batteries either. Makes another good argument for switching to AGM batteries for replacements.
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Old 04-21-2007, 04:13 PM   #5
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I have a 99DSDP and have fought this corrosion problem for all its life. The compartment is so tight and I have used the spray on cleaner and changed my tie downs to those black rubber things the tuckers have with S hook on each end. You can get them at Harbor Freight tools.

So last week I decided to do what many have successfully done and add mineral oil to top of water in battery. So will see but most are happy with this solution. Druggist looked at me rather quizzingly when I bought the two large bottle of mineral oil. Probably thought I had a horse with problems.

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Old 04-21-2007, 05:50 PM   #6
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Good one BZam welcome to the Newmar forum and irv2.
Thanks for the tip and your first post.
I think you deserve some KARMA and be on equal footing with the rest of us, how about it.
At any rate enjoy the forum and do post often.
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Old 04-21-2007, 06:48 PM   #7
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Another approach is to borrow from the marine industry - they are often quite ahead of the land-yacht industry. They use a product called HydroCaps to replace the standard battery caps. These are replacement battery caps (~$12 ea. ouch) which actually recombine the off gassing back into a liquid returning it to the cells and keep the fumes from corroding the battery bay. Far more effective than mineral oil. The reviews are top flight. Google them. HydroCaps, HQ is in Miami, US phone 305-696-2504.
Note that a competing product called "Water Miser" which is NOT a recombiner. However, due to Katrina, HydroCap production has resulted in acute shortages.

HydroCaps - in red - looks like:


WaterMiser - in yellow - looks like:


Here's some differences: (Thanks to solar-electric.com)
1. Hydrocaps should be removed when equalizing, or they can get extremely hot and may be ruined. Water Misers can stay in place all the time.
2. Hydrocaps re-combine the Oxygen and Hydrogen released by the battery while charging, reducing water loss up to 90%. Water Misers do not re-combine, but water loss is reduced by 50-80% by trapping fine water and acid particles. They also take up a lot less space above the battery. Since Hydrocaps must be removed when the batteries are being heavily charged you do not get the full benefit of recombining.
3. Hydrocaps are more expensive - because they do more. Hydrocaps will not last forever, though - life will vary from 3 years to 8 years, depending on charge rates and how they are treated. If left on during battery equalization, they can be quickly used up and/or ruined.
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Old 04-22-2007, 10:31 AM   #8
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Thanks for all your suggestions. I'm going to explore the Hyrdro-Caps & Water Miser some more. Thanks RVDude.

Mark
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Old 04-22-2007, 12:49 PM   #9
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Heres a link to battery caps, thanks for the info RV Dude.
These caps are on sale now 1/2 price.

Battery caps
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Old 04-22-2007, 05:54 PM   #10
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We have an 07 Essex delivered last August. The corrosion was so bad I thought the batteries would fall out of the compartment. I checked the charging profile and it seems to be correct. Had a Monaco for 3 years nothing like this. But 2 weeks ago at the factory I gave up and all 8 house batteries replaced with AGM's (all electric coach). I'll never have to add water. You can charge at a much higher current then lead acid's and won't outgas or generate significant heat. They last 2-3 times the number of charge discharge cycles as LA. Gel cells are very tempermental - easy to kill. Not so with AGM's. I think they should be standard on high end coach's. Only downside is coat.
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Old 04-22-2007, 06:18 PM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I think they should be standard on high end coach's. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

They ARE standard on the London Aire Diesel Bus....

FWIW.....ALL of my chassis batteries were replaced in Nappanee...
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Old 04-22-2007, 07:17 PM   #12
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To get the 8 house AGMs on a new 2007 Essex was a little over $2,000 and had to be ordered as a special - for 2008 they may only allow the 8 house battery option only on an all electric. I got the 8 batteries on a non-all electric. The chassis (or starting) batteries are still flooded cell. Newmar originally had some reluctance to use AGMs as chassis batteries (probably due to CCAs) but that may have changed.
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Old 04-23-2007, 06:21 AM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I think they should be standard on high end coach's.


They ARE standard on the London Aire Diesel Bus.... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The LADB isn't a high-end coach. It's Mountain Top coach.
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Old 05-25-2007, 01:25 PM   #14
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camping world sells OOB which i have used for several years to stop acid mist. it is similiar to the oil used in thermoil batteries which came installed in my 1996 kountrystar. they lasted 6 years and when i put in 4 new batteries i had to use the OOB to stop the acid from eating all the metal near my batteries. i guess the charger has an automatic equilizer setting that desulfates the battery plates and boils the acid sometimes??
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