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Old 11-20-2019, 03:36 PM   #57
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I read entire post twice now. I am very interested as I just received motor new motor today. Can I safely assume this will work on a motor that sits horizontal? This is what my motor looks like:
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Old 11-21-2019, 02:18 AM   #58
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All my motors were mounted horizontal.
My gearbox just had a square hole in it on my kitchen side. My bedroom side looks like your replacement.
Just use studs and seat them to the bottom of the aluminium gear box. Then use nuts to hold it in place.

SLS
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Old 11-21-2019, 07:35 AM   #59
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SLS, I have a new Bay Star with a FWS and each of the 2 motors had at least one loose bolt. Amazing, since it just came from dealer. It's people like you that make this forum really great. Thanks for the effort.
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Old 11-21-2019, 08:05 PM   #60
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I hope they fixed this on later models.
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Old 11-22-2019, 09:26 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jl2000 View Post
SLS, I have a new Bay Star with a FWS and each of the 2 motors had at least one loose bolt. Amazing, since it just came from dealer. It's people like you that make this forum really great. Thanks for the effort.
Thanks for the kind words.

I got beat-up pretty good on my "FIX" when I first posted it. I know many members that have replaced their bolts with studs and have not heard of one failure.

FYI, Use a torque wrench. Work up to 25 ft lbs. in three stages. 12-18-25lbs.
I have seen many post where they just put a wrench on it and will now have a faults since of security that the bolts are tight.....NOT. To hold the gearbox to the mounting plates and then handle the torque of the motor twisting on the plates to move the slide in & out. It takes the 25 lbs. of torque to hold it secure. I rechecked mine after almost a year and all 8 but one were tight. I had one that the torque wrench moved just as the torque wrench click-off. It wasn't really loose but was probably at 23/24 ft lbs vs the 25 ft lbs.

My MH just turned 3 this month but my Freightliner warranty was up in August. I have 60K on it and of course my Newmar warranty was long gone.....The reason I am telling you this is I travel a lot and use my slides 3 to 5 times per day which is way more than the average coach owner. That is why I fixed mine and now have TOTAL peace of mind with my "FIX"

Thanks again - Happy Traveling

SLS
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Old 11-22-2019, 11:10 AM   #62
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Posted this in your second post of your thread, SLS.
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Old 11-22-2019, 12:56 PM   #63
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If there was an annual award for best help post of the year, it would be this one.
SLS, you have saved members thousands of dollars and frustration of broken slides with this fix. It works.
Thanks for the time you took detailing the how to.
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Old 11-22-2019, 08:24 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by SLS View Post
Thanks for the kind words.

I got beat-up pretty good on my "FIX" when I first posted it. I know many members that have replaced their bolts with studs and have not heard of one failure.

FYI, Use a torque wrench. Work up to 25 ft lbs. in three stages. 12-18-25lbs.
I have seen many post where they just put a wrench on it and will now have a faults since of security that the bolts are tight.....NOT. To hold the gearbox to the mounting plates and then handle the torque of the motor twisting on the plates to move the slide in & out. It takes the 25 lbs. of torque to hold it secure. I rechecked mine after almost a year and all 8 but one were tight. I had one that the torque wrench moved just as the torque wrench click-off. It wasn't really loose but was probably at 23/24 ft lbs vs the 25 ft lbs.

My MH just turned 3 this month but my Freightliner warranty was up in August. I have 60K on it and of course my Newmar warranty was long gone.....The reason I am telling you this is I travel a lot and use my slides 3 to 5 times per day which is way more than the average coach owner. That is why I fixed mine and now have TOTAL peace of mind with my "FIX"

Thanks again - Happy Traveling

SLS
Can you recommend a torque wrench that would well in the range for motor torquing. Thanks
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Old 11-22-2019, 09:28 PM   #65
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Can you recommend a torque wrench that would well in the range for motor torquing. Thanks


Donít want to speak for SLS but Harbor Freight sells a ICON torque wrench that is highly rated. I think it is around $80. There cheap $20 ones are not very accurate. Snap on also makes a good one.
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Old 11-23-2019, 10:38 AM   #66
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Canuck53

I agree with Tigerfan1 for a very good wrench from Harbor Freight. I have Snap-on but that is irrelevant. When I made my original post on how to fix this I was on a three month vacation from Oregon. I was in Padre Island Texas and did not have my speciality tools with me. I went to the local NAPA store and bought a 3/8" Torque wrench for $34.00.
Because this is not an airplane you only need a torque wrench that will create repeatability. Does not need to be World Class Accurate.
FYI, I am not sure about the ICON but the testing I have seen would put them on Parr with Snap-ON. The only thing I like about my Snap-on is that it "Clicks-Off" a little better. I used my NAPA all the time and leave it in the side compartment of my MH. I have checked it with my Snap-On and did not see a measurable difference in torque.

By using the same torque wrench each time you will know if the bolts have started to loosen up. This is why I stated that the members don't use a torque wrench don't know if they have started to loosen up to the gearbox and mounting plate. The loctite may keep the bolt "LOCKED" but that is not the only problem that is occurring here as I explained before. I don't want to ramble on here again but bolts that are loctite or wire tied keep the bolt in place but does not secure the assemble to the mounting plates. The 5/16th stud can handle the recommended 25 lbs torque.
Just use the studs and get a wrench that will repeat the torque each time you check them. The "FIX" needs to be checked at 25 lbs until everything has seated into the "Crappy" slot of the mounting brackets.

SLS
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Old 11-24-2019, 11:10 AM   #67
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I have red and blue loctite. Is there any harm in using blue?
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Old 11-24-2019, 07:51 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by SLS View Post
I agree with Tigerfan1 for a very good wrench from Harbor Freight. I have Snap-on but that is irrelevant. When I made my original post on how to fix this I was on a three month vacation from Oregon. I was in Padre Island Texas and did not have my speciality tools with me. I went to the local NAPA store and bought a 3/8" Torque wrench for $34.00.
Because this is not an airplane you only need a torque wrench that will create repeatability. Does not need to be World Class Accurate.
FYI, I am not sure about the ICON but the testing I have seen would put them on Parr with Snap-ON. The only thing I like about my Snap-on is that it "Clicks-Off" a little better. I used my NAPA all the time and leave it in the side compartment of my MH. I have checked it with my Snap-On and did not see a measurable difference in torque.

By using the same torque wrench each time you will know if the bolts have started to loosen up. This is why I stated that the members don't use a torque wrench don't know if they have started to loosen up to the gearbox and mounting plate. The loctite may keep the bolt "LOCKED" but that is not the only problem that is occurring here as I explained before. I don't want to ramble on here again but bolts that are loctite or wire tied keep the bolt in place but does not secure the assemble to the mounting plates. The 5/16th stud can handle the recommended 25 lbs torque.
Just use the studs and get a wrench that will repeat the torque each time you check them. The "FIX" needs to be checked at 25 lbs until everything has seated into the "Crappy" slot of the mounting brackets.

SLS
Thanks I did find one at Princess Auto with a 10-80 range. It is a 3/8. Is that range acceptable?
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Old 11-25-2019, 12:12 AM   #69
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YEP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It will work.....

SLS
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Old 11-25-2019, 09:11 AM   #70
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YEP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It will work.....

SLS
Are all the bolts for the kitchen and bedroom slide 5/16 for the studs?
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