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Old 02-22-2018, 12:32 PM   #1
SLS
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How I FIXED My Electric Slide "Bolts"

Disclaimer:
All suggestions below and/or attached are my personal opinion. I cannot say anyone else will get the same results. I justify this FIX with my 41 years of RV’ing, 750K personal driven RV miles, 7 new RV’s from my first new Sportscoach in 1977 to my 1997 Marathon Bus on to my 2017 DSDP 4326, ASE certified mechanic, auto repair shops in the 70’s thru early 90’s, and a RV Perform-Rite shop for 12 years etc…… You will have other suggestions and will need to decide if you want to experiment like I have or do a proven repair……
With that said, I will attach pictures and part numbers.
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Old 02-22-2018, 03:33 PM   #2
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How to install Fix

Last post is what you will need to perform the repair.

All the parts are at Fastenal. You can get serrated nuts at local hardware if needed.

I use green Loctite because it is wicking and you can use it after assembly.

1. Move slide out about 4" to relieve the stop or extended tension on motor/gearbox.
2. Install stud (Holo-Krome International #1125447 5/16-18 x 2 SSS CP)with allen wrench to about 10 to 12 ft. lbs. (or tighten very firmly)
3. Apply Green Loctite generously but wipe off excess when it quites wicking.
4. Install (small) Nord-Lock washer #NL8 (5/16") I.D. 8.7mm. Concave out towards nut.
5. Install 5/16 serrated nut with serrated side "UP". this seems like upside down but there is a reason. Look at previous post with assembled stud, nuts, and washers.
6. Install (Large) Nord-lock SP washer NLX8sp (5/16") #2374 with concave side towards serrated nut.
7. Do all 4 studs as stated above.

Not that hard if you don't over think it.

When all 4 are done, re-install motor into 4 slots. It should go right back in with the square drive through the gear box. I use the crescent wrench to wiggle the square drive rod if necessary.

8. After you install the 4 studs and motor assembly back into the mounting slots. Install 4 more Nord-lock washers NLX8sp (5/16") #2374 with concave side facing out and facing the serrated nut you can now install.

Now comes the torque wrench. I know many of may not own a torque wrench but because i am on the road I did not have one either. I went to NAPA and bought one for $34.99. The only way you can check ANY install is with a torque wrench that will allow you to repeat the exact and proper torque of the nut. (Home owner v.s. professional)

9. You need to torque in three segments. approx 12' lbs, 18' lbs, and final at 24' lbs. Wait about 3 min and repeat 24 ft lbs. Continue this until you get a quick snap on the torque wrench. YOU ARE NOW DONE.

What you have done here is used the nut on both sides of the mounting to hold the motor/gearbox in place with 24 ft lbs. of torque v.s. the aluminum boss on the gear box. This will replace the partial inserted bolts with loctite and in most cases are loose or will come loose. If you don't torque bolts you are relying on a Hand Shake fix.

1. Studs go all the way to bottom aluminum boss. (Full Threads)
2. Easy to take out, service, or replace in the future. (if ever needed?)
3. You can check torque on studs with allen without removing assembly. Just loosen nut and check the tightness or torque on stud. (this should not be necessary if stud was installed and loctited but does give you the option.)

You can now pick your poison......

LATEST UPDATE 11/22/19 HOW MOTORS ARE HOLDING IN PLACE
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Old 02-22-2018, 03:35 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
We have a 2014 DS 4369. Not sure what the bolts are for. Are they for the kitchen slide motorized? When the motor bolts get loose?

It would be the kitchen and bedroom electric slides. If anyone PM's me their phone number, I will help you.

SLS
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Old 02-22-2018, 04:27 PM   #4
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More Pictures

See pictures below for some more visual.......
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Old 02-22-2018, 04:38 PM   #5
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Thanks,

Can you post a picture of the finished product back in its location.
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Old 02-22-2018, 04:49 PM   #6
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I can see how this set up really looks like its going to work. With the added washer and nut between the bracket, does it change the fitment into the drive shaft or am I looking at it incorrectly.
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Old 02-22-2018, 08:11 PM   #7
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Thanks for the help SLS much appreciated.
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Old 02-22-2018, 09:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLS View Post
Last post is what you will need to perform the repair.

All the parts are at Fastenal. You can get serrated nuts at local hardware if needed.

I use green Loctite because it is wicking and you can use it after assembly.

1. Move slide out about 4" to relieve the stop or extended tension on motor/gearbox.
2. Install stud (Holo-Krome International #1125447 5/16-18 x 2 SSS CP)with allen wrench to about 10 to 12 ft. lbs. (or tighten very firmly)
3. Apply Green Loctite generously but wipe off excess when it quites wicking.
4. Install (small) Nord-Lock washer #NL8 (5/16") I.D. 8.7mm. Concave out towards nut.
5. Install 5/16 serrated nut with serrated side "UP". this seems like upside down but there is a reason. Look at previous post with assembled stud, nuts, and washers.
6. Install (Large) Nord-lock SP washer NLX8sp (5/16") #2374 with concave side towards serrated nut.
7. Do all 4 studs as stated above.

Not that hard if you don't over think it.

When all 4 are done, re-install motor into 4 slots. It should go right back in with the square drive through the gear box. I use the crescent wrench to wiggle the square drive rod if necessary.

8. After you install the 4 studs and motor assembly back into the mounting slots. Install 4 more Nord-lock washers NLX8sp (5/16") #2374 with concave side facing out and facing the serrated nut you can now install.

Now comes the torque wrench. I know many of may not own a torque wrench but because i am on the road I did not have one either. I went to NAPA and bought one for $34.99. The only way you can check ANY install is with a torque wrench that will allow you to repeat the exact and proper torque of the nut. (Home owner v.s. professional)

9. You need to torque in three segments. approx 12' lbs, 18' lbs, and final at 24' lbs. Wait about 3 min and repeat 24 ft lbs. Continue this until you get a quick snap on the torque wrench. YOU ARE NOW DONE.

What you have done here is used the nut on both sides of the mounting to hold the motor/gearbox in place with 24 ft lbs. of torque v.s. the aluminum boss on the gear box. This will replace the partial inserted bolts with loctite and in most cases are loose or will come loose. If you don't torque bolts you are relying on a Hand Shake fix.

1. Studs go all the way to bottom aluminum boss. (Full Threads)
2. Easy to take out, service, or replace in the future. (if ever needed?)
3. You can check torque on studs with allen without removing assembly. Just loosen nut and check the tightness or torque on stud. (this should not be necessary if stud was installed and loctited but does give you the option.)

You can now pick your poison......
I guess I'm missing the step where you remove the motor? You are putting a stud into the motor housing, AND adding serrated nut and nord lock washer on each side of the mounting bracket? So the motor has to come out? What am I missing here?
jt
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Old 02-22-2018, 09:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddowntown View Post
I can see how this set up really looks like its going to work. With the added washer and nut between the bracket, does it change the fitment into the drive shaft or am I looking at it incorrectly.
No change in fitment. The 2" long studs ad the needed length for nuts and Nord-Lock washers. There is plenty of square shaft on motor/gearbox housing.
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Old 02-22-2018, 09:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuck53 View Post
Thanks,

Can you post a picture of the finished product back in its location.
Will do tomorrow. I'm in New Orleans with my wifes best friend since Jr High. Trying to answer questions and help with this problem. Will take picture tomorrow morning........LOL
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Old 02-22-2018, 09:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyjt View Post
I guess I'm missing the step where you remove the motor? You are putting a stud into the motor housing, AND adding serrated nut and nord lock washer on each side of the mounting bracket? So the motor has to come out? What am I missing here?
jt
Yes the motor needs to come out. It is very easy. Just extend your slide a bit to release tension on bolts, unplug the wire connector, and your ready to start the fix I described above.
PM me your phone number if you need more help.
SLS
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Old 02-22-2018, 10:22 PM   #12
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Great info SLS thanks.
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Old 02-23-2018, 09:45 AM   #13
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SLS,
I just saw your PM and responded to it. Thanks for the write up and materials list.
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Old 02-23-2018, 02:54 PM   #14
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Installed and in USE Pictures.

Attached are pic's with unit installed back on my Coach.

With my power ratchet, I could do this modification (FIX) in 15 to 30 minutes for each motor.

If you have not used or operated a torque wrench. Be sure to have someone show you how to read it and set to 24 ft lbs and use it. It is not hard but I struggle at first getting the proper settings and changing inch lbs. to ft. lbs on this $34.99 wrench. It has a 240 inch lbs setting but that is only 20 ft lbs. 288 inch lbs = 24 ft lbs. My Snap-On torque wrenches work very easy. This wrench is very easy to use once you learn the wrench.

Let me know if you need another help....
SLS
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