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Old 04-26-2008, 07:36 PM   #1
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I am just about finished dewinterizing and cleanding the entire coach. I noticed a few exterier screw heads broken off under the slide and on exterior cargo door frames. I would like to remove all rusting screw, but concrerned that more screw heads will break off. What is the best approach to drilling out old screws?
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Old 04-26-2008, 07:36 PM   #2
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I am just about finished dewinterizing and cleanding the entire coach. I noticed a few exterier screw heads broken off under the slide and on exterior cargo door frames. I would like to remove all rusting screw, but concrerned that more screw heads will break off. What is the best approach to drilling out old screws?
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Old 04-27-2008, 06:45 AM   #3
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Tough problem... Couple ideas... Eager to read more...

Newmar typically uses screws that look like Phillips head but are also square drive. Using a square drive bit gives you a better grip on the screw with less chance of stripping the head and better chance at jolting it loose before shearing the head. It's a #2 square bit.

If the head is already broken, as several of mine are as well, I have had no luck with simply drilling them out - even trying several different types of bits. I have had to take a small Dremel type grinding stone and grind the broken nub flat and then use a center punch to pop the remaining part of the screw out. Not pretty, but serviceable.
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Old 04-27-2008, 09:10 AM   #4
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Jeff, the broken screw is one of the many situated on each lower side corner of the compartment doors. Some of the heads are beginning to rust so I had the great idea of replacing anything with a little rust with stainless screws. Turned out to be a dumb idea since the screw head broke off with very little force. I suppose I could use a drill bit that is little larger than the screw which would create a bigger whole, then use an even larger screw. For now, the balance of the screw is holding. I put some silicone over where the screw head was.

If anyone has additional insight or experience, please chime in.
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Old 04-27-2008, 10:41 AM   #5
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We replaced a bunch of them when coach was new. We drilled them out and replaced them with larger screws, worked fine.
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Old 04-27-2008, 11:35 AM   #6
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I have no clue if it works.

http://www.asseenontvguys.com/browseproducts/Grabit-Pro...tractor-4-Piece.HTML
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Old 04-27-2008, 12:45 PM   #7
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The Grab-it (if the screw still has at least part of a head) and EZ-out (larger bolts) type of tools work great. But, with these sheet metal screws broken off I found these tools a no go.

If there is some semblance of a head left use a drill SMALLER than the bolt (and center punch a starting divit) and usually you can salvage the hole and use same size screw. If head is completely broken off I found it difficult to center punch and even harder to drill (drill wanders) w/o smoothing/grinding off the nub. Even then, drilling was difficult which is why I wound up just grinding and then punching them out.

Still looking for ideas????
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Old 04-27-2008, 06:58 PM   #8
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I use a pair of ViseGrip Locking Wrenches (not the same as locking pliers) and grab the head or the remains of the shaft and slowing work it out turing it back and forth gently until I get them all the way out. An occasional sprits of PbBlast helps.

See:

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml;...odId=IrwinProd100328
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Old 04-27-2008, 11:12 PM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Aridon:
I have no clue if it works.

http://www.asseenontvguys.com/browseproducts/Grabit-Pro...tractor-4-Piece.HTML </div></BLOCKQUOTE> Sears Crafsman has extractor bits like that and they work real good but I don't know if they have them small enough for wat your doing.
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Old 04-28-2008, 04:06 PM   #10
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well i bought that Grabit gizmo and am very dissapointed. It wouldn't even remove a screw in a piece of wood. Piece of crap in my opinion.
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Old 04-29-2008, 05:00 AM   #11
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I had the same experience as K-Star.

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Old 04-29-2008, 07:39 AM   #12
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Hanson (Irwin Industrial Tools) makes extractors in sizes EX-1 (the smallest) to EX-10 (the largest). Here's the link to the extractor page on Irwin's website.

Irwin Industrial Tools - Hanson Extractors

Use the information in the table to determine what size extractor, drill bit (for the pilot hole) and tap wrench to use.

We carry a nine piece (EX-1 to EX-9) Hanson extractor set that comes in a custom made metal box made to our specifications.

I can also sell the extractors individually but for the size (I'm guessing EX-1 or EX-2) you'll need, it probably will cost more to ship it than for the item itself.

You should be able to find Hanson extractors (or some another brand) in any Good hardware store.

Good Luck.
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:40 PM   #13
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While it doesn't exactly address your problem, I found this approach worked for me when I removed ~ 1850 square drive rusty screws from my race car trailer exterior:

For the screws that came out willingly: replaced in-kind with a 300 grade SS equivalent.

For the screws that "lost" their heads during rthe removal attempt: I drilled a new hole right next to the broken screw [into the old screw threads where possible], then replaced in-kind with a SS equivalent. In my situation, the SS screws I used had a large enough head to effectively cover the old screw hole...
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Old 04-29-2008, 05:15 PM   #14
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I have decided to just abandon the broken screws and install a new one next to it. Since it is not visible, it should not matter much.

I found another broken screw below my front passenger slide in the recess area. I may do the same here and just drill in a new SS screw next to the broken screw.

I need some feedback on the next question. Since the compartment doors are aluminum, should I use only aluminum screws? The factory screws are not aluminum. I am assuming that the compartment door frames are aluminum.
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