How to winterize a 1999 Mountain Aire?

iowarver · 10-26-2010, 07:18 AM

First year to winterize. Says to bypass water heater (how)? Found hose by water pump to pull anti-freeze in. Not sure how to do any of this. What valves should be closed and which ones open?

Assume that after anti-freeze is in that all batteries should be disconnected?

Thanks much

TechWriter · 10-26-2010, 10:37 AM

I just finished winterizing my 2001 MADP for the first time and I must have used about 300 gallons of antifreeze. Just kidding, but I did overdo it because I didn't read the directions that were printed right on the coach.

Anyway, since my last RV water pump had lousy suction, I actually bought a spare 12V water pump and used it to pump antifreeze into my coach. I used the same technique on my MADP -- which was totally unnecessary.

First, on the side of the water heater, there should be instructions on how to orient the water heater valves (3 of them) in order to bypass the heater (which prevents antifreeze from getting in the heater).

Second, remove the anode from the water heater to drain all the water out of the heater tank.

Third, fill a 5-gallon bucket with antifreeze, put that plastic tube in the bucket, set the "A" and "B" valves according to the instructions above the plastic hose, and turn on the coach's water pump.

Fourth, open each of your MADP's faucets one at a time until pink comes out of both the hot and cold sides. Let enough pink come out to at least fill the water trap below each faucet. Remember the outside faucet too.

If you have an icemaker and/or washer/dryer, they need to be winterized too. (This is where I used up most of my antifreeze.)

Have fun.

bdaball · 10-26-2010, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iowarver

First year to winterize. Says to bypass water heater (how)? Found hose by water pump to pull anti-freeze in. Not sure how to do any of this. What valves should be closed and which ones open?

Assume that after anti-freeze is in that all batteries should be disconnected?

Thanks much

iowarver,
I see that you are a new member. Please keep asking if you still have any doubt. There is a wealth of experienced knowledge here as well as alot of BS.
Good luck with your winter-izing. It's really not hard once you have done it.

As far as the batteries, it's one of those "depends" answers. Is the coach going into cold storage mode for three-four months?

Romeo · 10-26-2010, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iowarver

First year to winterize. Says to bypass water heater (how)?

I was very confused about this also. If yours in the same as my 2000 DS, there is a space behind the water heater, accessible from the small basement hatch forward of the water heater access grill. In that space you can see the hot water heater and three valves... mine are two horizontal, and one vertical. The vertical valve in normally closed and is the water heater by-pass valve. The two horizontal valves are the cold supply to the water heater and the hot return from the water heater, and are normally open.

When winterizing, one must bypass the water heater to avoid filling it with antifreeze. In order to bypass, the two horizontal valves are closed (so no antifreeze will enter the heater, and the vertical valve is opened to complete the bypass around the heater.

I should photograph this so we have a picture of the piping arrangement. I don't think a photo exists on IRV2.

Hope this helps.

BTW... we have been discussing this in another thread, and have discussed a method to use only one gallon of antifreeze instead of a "bucket full".

iowarver · 10-26-2010, 01:54 PM

It will be in cold storage for probably five months. No place to plug the unit in either.

iowarver · 10-26-2010, 01:56 PM

A photo would be perfect. Kind of a work better by pictures guy. What is the other thread you mentioned? Maybe I can pick up some more pointers. The gentleman we bought this coach from said it takes about 1.5 gallons to winterize.

Thanks!

iowarver · 10-26-2010, 03:11 PM

Actually found the thread you were talking about. Followed it through and found some pictures. Thanks so much.

Romeo · 10-26-2010, 04:04 PM

Sorry about not posting the link. I was trying to find it and couldnt figure out how to insert a link to it, then got side tracked with work (

).

I will try to photograph the area... it's kind of awkward to get to, and post them.

popsuscdds · 10-26-2010, 08:10 PM

Hi iowarver:
The purpose of the bypass valve is to keep you from filling the hot water heater with antifreeze. I prefer to blow the water out of the system and use antifreeze only in the p traps. One needs a compressed air source.
1. remove anode from hot water heater. Allow it to empty. replace anode.
2. drain the fresh water tank. Can be done when the waste water tanks are drained.
3. attach an air fitting to the fresh water supply where you would attach it if you were not going to fill the fresh water tanks. Maintain air pressure below 35 psi with water pump on. Open and close each hot water faucet. open and close each cold water faucet, open and close each shower faucet. Leave faucets open until all water comes out then close faucets. Open all the low points if present. Remove anode and let some water out. Leave anode out. shut off water pump, disconnect air. leave all faucets open.
3. Drain all tanks, lubricate knife valves after draining tanks
4. Pour 2 cups rv antifreeze in each p trap(sink drains)
5. Pour two cups rv anti freeze into toilet.
Lubricate the knife valves at the waste water drain.
The battery manufacturer suggests that the batteries be removed and kept out of the low temps. Our MH is kept out doors under a cover. We get down to 10 below F.
We fill the GAS tank with fresh fuel and treat with Sta-bil. Onan suggests fogging spray in the generator along with filter and oil change. Fill the propane tank and shut off the valve.
Have fun!
Milt