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Old 04-27-2018, 08:32 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart W View Post
Tom in your picture I don’t see your transfer switch, did you move it or in 16 was it somewhere else?
The transfer switch is there. But, the angle of the photo hides it behind the FWS component. I did raise the transfer switch several inches and moved the coax/data components to the top of the power compartment so I had the room to permanently mount the Hughes Autoformer.

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Old 04-27-2018, 08:59 AM   #30
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Thanks Tom
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Old 04-27-2018, 09:41 AM   #31
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I see no reason the two would not work together I am just questioning weather or not the need is there. I think some of us are exchanging the words Surge and the phrase high voltage. A surge might be enough to "self sacrifice" any surge protector. IE in the case of a lightning strike or a new transformer start up which I can speak from experience about. I dont see any Surge suppressors going South with just an increase in voltage. As always JMHO.
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Old 04-27-2018, 01:41 PM   #32
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The Hughes website says to install the transformer in a ventilated compartment. Did you ventilate it and if so, how?
MRE, I did not add any supplemental ventilation to the power compartment in my coach. The power compartment is not totally enclosed and there are multiple openings that allow air to circulate. I have been operating with this configuration for almost two years.

I live in Las Vegas so I spend a lot of time in the heat. To this point, the Autoformer has not run hot and there hasn't been any noticeable heat buildup in the power compartment when I am at a campsite and connected to shore power.

The need for additional ventilation just hasn't been an issue for me.

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Old 04-27-2018, 05:47 PM   #33
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MRE, I did not add any supplemental ventilation to the power compartment in my coach. The power compartment is not totally enclosed and there are multiple openings that allow air to circulate. I have been operating with this configuration for almost two years.

I live in Las Vegas so I spend a lot of time in the heat. To this point, the Autoformer has not run hot and there hasn't been any noticeable heat buildup in the power compartment when I am at a campsite and connected to shore power.

The need for additional ventilation just hasn't been an issue for me.

Tom
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Old 04-28-2018, 09:47 AM   #34
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Ok, I will say this again
The "Surge" protection in the autoformer is MOV's. easily replaced though Hughes will void your warranty (mine is 13 years old so that does not bother me) if you replace 'em. or you can add a 2nd Spike SUpressor (MOVE TYPE surge prtector) in front of it, these are teh ones that are in teh 100 -200 dollar range.

The Real "Surge Protectors' with the LCD or LED displays that show you voltage, amprage and error code. these monitor voltage and if you for example plug into 240 volts they do NOT pass power to the RV, instead they tell you what you did, Open neutral or ground, they protect you. HIGH (140) low (100) Note those are not the cut off voltages, but out of range voltages I picked as examplex) They cut you off to protect youi.

This is why that one goes AFTER the Hughes.
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Old 04-28-2018, 12:16 PM   #35
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I have a question about mounting permanently installing it inside. Hughes sells a kit that has a female outlet and a male plug. The normal setup is that the HA male plug goes into the pedestal and the power cord plugs into the female outlet of the HA. I want to mount the HA after the power cord but do not want a male plug that is HOT. Does it matter which way the power flows through the HA? That is the best way to permanently install it?
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Old 04-28-2018, 12:58 PM   #36
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Thanks!
I have the below coach. My cord compartment looks like yours. I don't see any vent holes in mine -- maybe the DS is different. In case I missed it, where are the holes in you DS located at?

Thanks
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Old 04-28-2018, 01:08 PM   #37
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The kit consists of a cord with a male plug on the end and a box with a female receptacle mounted in it. Disconnect your original cord form where it connects in the RV (transfer switch, EMS, etc) and connect the cord with the male plug from the kit in its place. Now take the original cord that you just disconnected and connect it to the box with the female receptacle. This turns your original cord into an extension cord. Now you can plug the new cord from the kit into the receptacle to bypass the HA, or plug the HA in between the new cord with plug and the new receptacle.

The plug should always face toward the power source. You never want the plug to be HOT. It probably would not work if you were to wire the HA in the reverse direction. And if it worked at all, you would get a voltage decrease and not an increase.
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Old 04-28-2018, 02:02 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by FlaRider View Post
I have a question about mounting permanently installing it inside. Hughes sells a kit that has a female outlet and a male plug. The normal setup is that the HA male plug goes into the pedestal and the power cord plugs into the female outlet of the HA. I want to mount the HA after the power cord but do not want a male plug that is HOT. Does it matter which way the power flows through the HA? That is the best way to permanently install it?
FlaRider, attached are several photos and a wiring diagram showing how I did the Hughes Autoformer permanent install in my coach. I also purchased the kit from Hughes and connected the female plug to the coach end of the power cord reel. I connected the male plug to the input side of the Progressive surge suppressor. If there is a problem with the Autoformer, you bypass it plugging the surge suppressor directly into the cord reel plug.

Below is also a link to an earlier thread from 2014 that I reviewed before I did my install.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/my-p...on-207941.html

Hope this helps.

Tom
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Old 04-28-2018, 03:08 PM   #39
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Bill and Tom thank you for the reply that makes perfect sense I was over thinking it. That is exactly what I wanted to do. Without all the parts, ok none of the parts, (pick up the coach in June) I just could not picture the setup.

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Old 04-28-2018, 04:54 PM   #40
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I did mine so that everything could be removed or bypass if something happened. I pulled the cable from the transfer switch and installed a female outlet which the hughes plugged into. The PI plugged into the Hughes female outlet and the output of the PI goes into another female outlet. We made a male pigtail for the transfer switch which plugs into the female from the PI.
Everything can be mixed and matched or put back to no protection.
Remember that the female connections are the source of the power...... just ask your DW!
I posted pics of our finished setup on this site in 10/16 under BEACH HOUSE
We even had to boost power at factory!
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Old 04-28-2018, 05:39 PM   #41
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Do these connections (plugs) come loose and if so how did you secure them?
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Old 04-28-2018, 08:40 PM   #42
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Do these connections (plugs) come loose and if so how did you secure them?
Canuck53, I initially had problems with the plugs coming loose when I was driving. To prevent that I secured them with web straps. No problems since.

Tom
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