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bioguy · 10-14-2019, 12:37 PM

97 mountain aire 40" pusher with 610 HWH jack system. I have RR jack going down even when I want only fronts and it will not stay down when done leveling. I need to remove and rebuild the RR jack solenoid but want to make sure on the procedure. I take it that the top bolt has to be removed and the solenoid can be taken off. Is that the method? Is any problem with standing oil pressure involved? Pic below is my system.

RKins · 10-14-2019, 04:01 PM

Are the wires to the solenoids marked for which jack they control?
I used a big pair of water pump pliers to unscrew the solenoid from the manifold.
If you want it done with the least effort, and have the time, just call HWH and get an RA number - send it in and they will charge only what it needs. They will ask if you want it repainted. Got mine back in a couple weeks.
I had all four of mine repaired and they charged me less than one reman'd solenoid would be - $150.
First thing I would do is contact Paul (azpete is his username), he has worked for HWH for 20+ years as a field tech and lives in his motorhome traveling around for HWH. He isn't a salesman but has offered his help here to anyone that needs it - free. Do a search for his user name and you'll find his phone # and email address - he said his phone is never off - call him.

bioguy · 10-14-2019, 07:34 PM

Ah so the bolt on top is not in need of removal then? The round T valve cylinder is threaded and unscrews....that may not be fun in my tight quarters with a wrench. No oil pressure issues upon removal that you know of?
Will do prob in spring now as time for storage is next. I just took out my furnace for testing and had to order a new circuit board as it would not ignite and everything else checked for function. Should have part tomorrow and test. Thanks for your help. I have Pauls number already but have not called him till I am ready.

RKins · 10-15-2019, 05:16 AM

The solenoids are not screwed in very tight so all you need to do it get a grip on the solenoid and start to turn and it'll move easy by hand. I had my jacks up, so no pressure on the system. (My pump was shot) When I removed the solenoid there was a little fluid that came out, so have something to catch that couple tablespoons of fluid - remember, I sent all 4 back in for rebuild, so I got more fluid from all 4 than you would for one. My pump assy was tucked in in just front of the rear bumper - had to remove the bumper to get to it. I think I remember Paul telling me to look for the nut in the end of the solenoid that slides into the manifold. If it was there, that was good, if not, not good. Talk to him.
If you are storing indoors, I would send the solenoid in now and you'll have them back over the winter and ready to screw back into the manifold without delay, in the spring. I put a plastic bag over the manifold openings while I waited for the return.

bioguy · 10-15-2019, 02:02 PM

Thanks for info. I think I can grab the solenoid without removing the bumper again as the solenoid that goes to the rr jack is the first on left side and may be able to get it from open engine door. As you can see in pic I just replaced the 2 regulators and took bumper of for that. Building an 18x44 building in the next few weeks so can take off when stored for winter rebuild.
Thanks again.

RKins · 10-15-2019, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bioguy

Thanks for info. I think I can grab the solenoid without removing the bumper again as the solenoid that goes to the rr jack is the first on left side and may be able to get it from open engine door. As you can see in pic I just replaced the 2 regulators and took bumper of for that. Building an 18x44 building in the next few weeks so can take off when stored for winter rebuild.
Thanks again.

Nice!! Might consider sending all 4 back for rebuild - if one has burned out, .... It cost me less than $150 for all 4 and they only change what needs to be changed. They fit in a usps box IIRC - I put them in a gallon storage bag and added bubble wrap.