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Old 01-19-2017, 09:04 AM   #15
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you could use blocks to check that or, better yet. check your garage floor. many garage floors are slanted toward the door. at least thats the way i had the contractor do mine. 2 inches from inside to outside. water runs out and doesnt puddle on floor.
there is a circumstance that will allow a yellow light to come on during the stabilize sequence. if one pressure switch is set at a slight difference in pressure , the computer may lift that side or end enough to turn a yellow light on. hwh still considers that to be level. within the parameters set on the control box.
if you check it with a level, it should show reasonably level. if its out of the marks, reset the sensor. thats why the new potted sensors have that pin that you ground when setting the level sensor. it makers the sensor more sensitive.
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:46 AM   #16
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I did. Verified the motorhome was level using 4' level in the garage with jacks up. Checked by placing the level behind the drivers/passenger seat across the coach and then down the walkway in front of the sofa with the slides in. Slides out jacks down still flicker amber lights. Checked level again, made slight adjustment on front jacks to center level bubble then fixed stuck sensor to match the level. Guess the real test will be when I leave the garage to the next camp site. I will follow Newmar directions before extending the slides.
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Old 01-19-2017, 02:00 PM   #17
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Just a tip.....we've had our coach long enough to know when it's too far out of level and need to have some ramps under a tire or two. There are occasions where I know it's off, but it's not way off from being level. A simple check I do, which gives me a good idea if I'm okay to open the FWS, is to look at the lock above the FWS near the driver's seat.

The block has two screws holding it to the wall. The lock arm is centered between the two screws. If I see that the lock arm is more toward the rear screw or front screw, usually by a little more than a quarter inch. I know I need to go out and check the "reveals".

On occasion, when I bring in the FWS and I see the lock isn't centered, I'll finish up my departure routine and drive the coach to a level spot in the park, extend the slide part way and bring it back in. This centers it and makes it ride quieter.

Lastly, I'll occasionally level and get the "Excessive Slope" light. I think the jacks push past the spot where the coach is level while making multiple corrections. I turn off the key, turn it back on and hit Auto Level again and it will sometimes correct and level, turning off the "Excessive Slope" light.

I even think sometimes when the "Auto Level" is used, there is not a long enough wait for the air bags to deplete before the "Auto Level" starts. When I know there is going to be a lot of slope, I will manually dump the air and then "Auto Level".

This sounds like a lot, but they're just little tricks that I've found that seem to help in certain situations.
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Old 01-19-2017, 03:31 PM   #18
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I do not know the HWH system so I will make a generic comment or two.

When I got my Motor home the salesman said he likes to put down the rear jacks first, then the front....

But it turns out there are two different 4-footed (4 Jacks) systems (or more)
Mine, there are 4 jacks, but it is a 3 point system.. I will explain

Some others are 4 point systems (or six)
What is the difference?

On mine the two front jacks, (This is not how it is actually done) the hoses are basically "T" connected, that is both jacks work together but if you were to put a block under ONE of them as they come down when that jack hits the block it just keeps stops, the other one comes down twice as fast till it hits something THEN lift starts. A "teeter Totter" affair if youlike

The rear jacks are independent, that is I can bring down JUST ONE and not feed fluid to the other.

So I always raise the front, THEN the rear, Then the low side.
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