I Want, Stop Lights OFF - When Exhaust Brake is ON...!!!!

[Dav L]

Thanx for posting the rvibrake info.
so, no electrical connections. I assume (without looking at the details) that the inertia that the toad brakes are applied is adjustable (ie: no brakes under the less inertia of retard vs. harder left pedal stopping)

I assume the OP has a different TOAD braking system if the toad brakes are applying on retard and he believes changing the brake light circuit will affect that.

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by Dav L

Thanx for posting the rvibrake info.
so, no electrical connections. I assume (without looking at the details) that the inertia that the toad brakes are applied is adjustable (ie: no brakes under the less inertia of retard vs. harder left pedal stopping)

I assume the OP has a different TOAD braking system if the toad brakes are applying on retard and he believes changing the brake light circuit will affect that.

I don't think that's the issue. This thread has morphed a bit ... I don't think the OP has said he has an issue other than he doesn't like the brake lights coming on with the engine brake.

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by Dav L

Thanx for posting the rvibrake info.
so, no electrical connections. I assume (without looking at the details) that the inertia that the toad brakes are applied is adjustable (ie: no brakes under the less inertia of retard vs. harder left pedal stopping)

I assume the OP has a different TOAD braking system if the toad brakes are applying on retard and he believes changing the brake light circuit will affect that.

No inertia adjustment, and yes the OP has electric trailer brakes that get the signal to apply from the brake light switch of the tow vehicle. Only wire on RVI3 is the Breakaway switch that mounts near the tow-bar and runes into the Toad to where the RVI3 unit is placed. Then of course you need to wire the tail lights of the toad separately.

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by bruceisla

I don't think that's the issue. This thread has morphed a bit ... I don't think the OP has said he has an issue other than he doesn't like the brake lights coming on with the engine brake.

I would normally agree with you on this, the OP did specifically talk about the reason for wanting them off was related to his electric trailer brakes. I for one will let the topic return to turning off the engine brake activated brake lights.

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by Stuart W

I would normally agree with you on this, members did specifically talk about the reason for wanting them off was related to his electric trailer brakes. I for one will let the topic return to turning off the engine brake activated brake lights.

Correction not the OP but others asked the question about brake activation.

[jporietis]

I too have my brake lights activate with the exhaust brake and would like to disable it.
It seems that a lot of people don't understand the exhaust brake function. It does not apply the brakes, it merely does exactly the same as taking your foot off the gas pedal in a gas card. What if in all gas cars the brake lights activated when you take your foot off the gas pedal.
Going down hills slower than some traffic I use my four way flashers to warn other drivers of my slower speed. Activating my exhaust brake over rides my flashers so does not warn anyone.
My biggest beef is that some manufacturers activate brake lights and others don't, in other words there is no standard either everyone, trucks busses rvs should activate lights or no one should

[Dav L]

ah, ok, looking closer, it wasn't the OP that was concerned over the toad brakes...

[SLS]

Originally Posted by jporietis

I too have my brake lights activate with the exhaust brake and would like to disable it.
It seems that a lot of people don't understand the exhaust brake function. It does not apply the brakes, it merely does exactly the same as taking your foot off the gas pedal in a gas card. What if in all gas cars the brake lights activated when you take your foot off the gas pedal.
Going down hills slower than some traffic I use my four way flashers to warn other drivers of my slower speed. Activating my exhaust brake over rides my flashers so does not warn anyone.
My biggest beef is that some manufacturers activate brake lights and others don't, in other words there is no standard either everyone, trucks busses rvs should activate lights or no one should

You and I agree.
I have an appointment with Cummins next week and will post results.
The service manager said he could turn off the function with his laptop.
Will See!!!!!


SLS

[SLS]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

The Incite program is what Cummins uses to make program changes. To save time and money, I would email Cummins and have them give you the steps for turning off the brake lights. They'll give you the sequence to follow. Some of the techs are not that familiar with where to find the parameters in the program.

I plan on having my cruise control reconfigured, so the engine brake engages at 2mph or my set cruise speed, versus 6-7 mph. Last time I had this done, they charged one hour labor to access the ECU.

Hi Don,
Congrats on new DSDP........

Why do you have this changed?
If I have cruise set at 65 mph. Does this mean the speed has to reach 71/72 mph before exhaust brake kicks in? vs. 67 mph with the 2 mph limit.

Thanks,
SLS

[jporietis]

Originally Posted by SLS

You and I agree.
I have an appointment with Cummins next week and will post results.
The service manager said he could turn off the function with his laptop.
Will See!!!!!


SLS

Consider programming the system so that the transmission does not select a lower gear when the exhaust brake is activated. I prefer to select gears myself rather than having trany downshift abruptly.
I had this done and works well

[toneil7163]

Originally Posted by Stuart W

Works great, sorry to say I had a terrible experience with the Tire Patrol tire sensors and ended up returning them. They say they are one inch in diameter, but actually they are closer to 1 1/8. This became a problem on the front Alcoa wheels, the sensors touched the rim causing one sensor to come apart, tire went flat! The manufacturers fix was close to a 1 inch valve extensions temporarily while they stroked me along for 3 months while they said they were making their own shorter custom extenders, than said it was to expensive and left me hanging. I was not comfortable with the sensors sticking out more than the rim. In addition the readings were never exactly the same, I could set the pressures with a digital pressure gauge and the variable between same size tires was as much as 3 PSI. Lastly these are plastic welded sensors, meaning they do not have user serviceable batteries. The manufacture says they will last 2-3 years, at such point they have what they call a “reasonable” battery program, cost is $125 plus shipping to and from, they say this price includes new seals and firmware updates if available.
Just wanted to be clear that my endorsement of the RVI3 Brake unit does not extend the RVI Tire Patrol.

Thanks for the Info. I have a RVI3 and are very satisfied and was going to purchase the tire patrol. I think I'll look elsewhere now.

[Finance]

Originally Posted by Stuart W

No inertia adjustment, and yes the OP has electric trailer brakes that get the signal to apply from the brake light switch of the tow vehicle. Only wire on RVI3 is the Breakaway switch that mounts near the tow-bar and runes into the Toad to where the RVI3 unit is placed. Then of course you need to wire the tail lights of the toad separately.

Stuart, the RVi3 has adjustments for both sensitivity (how high the inertial threshold is to activate it) and for braking force (how much pressure is applied to the brakes). The braking force is proportional to the inertia once activated.

FWIW, the same as the RVi2. I have both. The only significant difference is the dedicated remote for the 2 vs. the tablet remote for the 3.

[erkme73]

I concur that having the brake lights on with engine braking is far from ideal. When going down steep grades in middle-TN, I find that I barely maintain speed with the engine brake. As the speed approaches my upper limit, I use the service brakes to abruptly slow down by 15-20MPH. The process is repeated as often as it takes to prevent brake damage and overspeed.

The problem is, if the entire time the brake lights are on, whether I'm hard-braking with the service brakes, or just barely increasing speed, the driver behind become desensitized to the brake lights. They don't know that I'm suddenly slowing from 55MPH to 40MPH. They see no difference. That is dangerous.

I recall finding a small company/guy that shipped me a small radio-shack style box with a bread board with some diodes and relays. He built and marketed it precisely to allow engine brake w/o lights. IIRC, I was able to get him to ship me one of his last remaining stock, and he was turning off the lights on the endeavor.

Regretfully, I never installed the box (I think it was around $80) as my time behind the wheel dropped to near zero when my kids were born. In fact, I'm pretty sure I harvested the relays and diodes for other projects.

[RobRV]

It’s not actually a Fuse with a Diode , but rather a Diode that plugs in like a Fuse!
On the Spartan That we have it is located on a panel containing a combination of Relays and Fuses near the Battery Compartment! When removed the Brake lights do not light unless my foot is on the pedal!