Inverter AC IN breaker trips

[robby4570]

Hi, we just took our 2000 Dutch Star on our shake-down cruise to the KOA across the street from the dealer and had only 1 semi-major problem. When plugged into shore power on a 50 amp breaker with the inverter off, both AC's off and nothing else running (but both AC's do work fine when they are on together) except the refrigerator, after 20 to 30 seconds of running the convection/microwave oven in either mode the 30 amp "AC IN" breaker on our inverter would trip. I called Newmar since the dealer was supposed to have fixed this problem already before we picked up the coach but apparently hadn't. It was after their hours and I had to speak with the guy taking the after-hours calls. I explained the situation to him and he said "sounds like you've got a problem there" but had no solution advice for me at all so I am stuck. I reset the breaker, we opted for not trying the oven/micro any more and had dinner with the Colonel that night and everything else (both TV's both AC's, 'fridge, etc.) worked fine all weekend long.

So, I figured all you fine folks out there might be able to help me. Also, if I have 50 amps in at shore power why does the inverter only have a 30 amp AC IN breaker? Or does it even matter?

["007"]

You have 50 amp shore power if you shut down inverter will your fridge work, needs 12v from batterys and micro,AC's work off the shore power. Newmar wires outlet for ice maker off inverter but not the fridge.
Here is a couple of threads #1 & #2 that may help.

[FlyingDiver]

The "AC IN" breaker feeds power to the inverter to either power inverter fed circuits or to recharge your batteries (assuming an inverter/converter unit). AC only items like the fridge (AC/propane models) or air conditioners aren't on inverter circuits and don't apply here.

You either have a bum inverter that's drawing too much power, or (more likely) a bad breaker. Try replacing the 30 amp breaker first, since it's a standard part and easy to get at any DIY store.

joe

[wa8yxm]

What converter do you have... now a theory.

Some inverters have a setting for "AC Breaker IN" I know my Prosine 2.0 does.

I"m guessing yours does not.

So here is what's up.

If you have more than a pair of GC-2 size (Six volt golf car) batteries, or if you have Lifeline AGM's it's possibly your inverter/converter (Yours is both) is set to crank out as much as 100 amps or more.. (Mine 100 is tops, but some may go higher)

Now, 100 amps at 14.6 volts is 1460 watts... Your microwave is 1100 watts (often) that's a total of 2560 watts, plus another 140 or so for converter loss is 2700 watts.

Divide by 110 volts (Cause the park is slightly browned out) and we have 23.3 roughly

80 percent of 30 is 24 so as you see, you are very very close.

And if the converter section of the combo (Inverter/Converter) is bigger, if you are drawing a few (just 80 watts) for the Sat Receiver, TV, House radio, et-al..

That puts you over the 80 percent point

And after a few mintues CLICK and darkness.

The solution:

If you have a "AC Input Breaker" setting, lower it

If you do not, wait an hour for hte batteries to slightly charge.


And yes, I'm still trying to educate the wife.

[DandS]

Regarding previous post -------

[robby4570]

I just learned from "the guy" at the dealer, that the inverter is only on one leg of the AC coming in. He said that's why it's only 30a.

[robby4570]

Oh, ooops, clicked submit instead of preview..

Also we have the Sharp Carousel Micro/Conv oven that seems to be at the root of this issue. My guy at the dealer thinks our problem is either a bad oven or weak breaker in the inverter. We have a Xantec (I think that the name) inv/converter, there used to be someone in Albuquerque that rebuilt them but he left town or retired and now the dealer sends these inverters to Denver. So we are waiting to hear from the dealer in the next day or two as to the problem/solution. I'll keep you all posted and thanks for your replies!

Oh, DandS - why are you confused??

[DandS]

Quote:

Originally Posted by robby4570 Oh, DandS - why are you confused??

Did you read post #4 ?

[bigskymt]

Can you access the plug and run an extension cord/dedicated line from shore power (try to find 15amp service) to the microwave/convection oven and see if running the oven pops that breaker?
Fluke makes an "amp clamp" that measures AC current non invasively, it might be worth the expense.

[RJay]

The microwave should have its own breaker beyond the inverter, perhaps in a sub panel. If the microwave was defective it should trip that breaker and not the feeder breaker to the inverter. If you plug into shore power or run the generator and then run the microwave, that should tell you if it's the inverter or the microwave.