Inverter Settings

[C.Martin]

I installed the ME-BMK with the express purpose of having SOC instead of voltage for AGS trigger. To my suprise...no can do with the original ME-RC remote. ME-ARC was a pure necessity.

So...yes you can then control AGS based on:
SOC, Dometic Ext. Input, Quiet Time Topoff, Generator Excercise, 100% SOC within # of days...

You also have added CC/CV charge protocol in addition to battery types and custom.

Absorb end can be controlled by Time, Amps, or SOC.

Final charge can be silent with a rebulk voltage.

You have a start float or start bulk feature.

AC-IN control...yes, this is worth the price of admission alone. AC-IN Auto, time of day, voltage, SOC. Let your imagination roam. This can be used in a variety of circumstances...like times where utility rates are lower, or to reduce metered cost by forcing system to use some of your solar. So, yawn...yeah maybe not such a big deal. But if you do have solar. Picture this...HOT summer day in Florida...30A shore power...and you have solar. Without switching AC-IN...trying to run 2 air conditioners, fridge, etc...on 30A results in load shedding. Load shedding will trigger a nuisance AGS start. Switch AC-IN to SOC 80 - 100%...Now your inverter switches to Battery...and your solar runs the fridge, microwave, and dc lights, entertainment. 30A shore is basically 100% dedicated to running the two rooftop units. Score!!! You can comfotably camp on the hotest day of the year in direct Sun...with two Air Conditioners running...and only 30A shore power.

And the AGS time of day. That can be set before you go to bed. Wakeup to hot water for showers, power for coffee and cooking breakfast, and get the batteries charged a bit at the same time. Then it shuts off and lets the solar take over. Helps a lot if you want to use a little more power than your solar can handle alone.

You also add the FAVS button, so you can customize the items you like to use frequently.

To me...if you aren't technology adverse...the ME-ARC should be the standard. Of course for those that are technology adverse...it does have more layers of menus to get lost in.

Download the Manual...browse Appendix A...and you see exactly what you get based in your Firmware version.

With it...and my solar...I no longer shudder at the thought of dry camping or 30A shore power camping. I say, bring it!

[Canuck53]

Originally Posted by C.Martin

I installed the ME-BMK with the express purpose of having SOC instead of voltage for AGS trigger. To my suprise...no can do with the original ME-RC remote. ME-ARC was a pure necessity.

So...yes you can then control AGS based on:
SOC, Dometic Ext. Input, Quiet Time Topoff, Generator Excercise, 100% SOC within # of days...

You also have added CC/CV charge protocol in addition to battery types and custom.

Absorb end can be controlled by Time, Amps, or SOC.

Final charge can be silent with a rebulk voltage.

You have a start float or start bulk feature.

AC-IN control...yes, this is worth the price of admission alone. AC-IN Auto, time of day, voltage, SOC. Let your imagination roam. This can be used in a variety of circumstances...like times where utility rates are lower, or to reduce metered cost by forcing system to use some of your solar. So, yawn...yeah maybe not such a big deal. But if you do have solar. Picture this...HOT summer day in Florida...30A shore power...and you have solar. Without switching AC-IN...trying to run 2 air conditioners, fridge, etc...on 30A results in load shedding. Load shedding will trigger a nuisance AGS start. Switch AC-IN to SOC 80 - 100%...Now your inverter switches to Battery...and your solar runs the fridge, microwave, and dc lights, entertainment. 30A shore is basically 100% dedicated to running the two rooftop units. Score!!! You can comfotably camp on the hotest day of the year in direct Sun...with two Air Conditioners running...and only 30A shore power.

And the AGS time of day. That can be set before you go to bed. Wakeup to hot water for showers, power for coffee and cooking breakfast, and get the batteries charged a bit at the same time. Then it shuts off and lets the solar take over. Helps a lot if you want to use a little more power than your solar can handle alone.

You also add the FAVS button, so you can customize the items you like to use frequently.

To me...if you aren't technology adverse...the ME-ARC should be the standard. Of course for those that are technology adverse...it does have more layers of menus to get lost in.

Download the Manual...browse Appendix A...and you see exactly what you get based in your Firmware version.

With it...and my solar...I no longer shudder at the thought of dry camping or 30A shore power camping. I say, bring it!

Ok that’s an answer. Sold! It is now on the must do list!

[Canuck53]

Originally Posted by redbaron73

I swapped out the RC with arc without powering anything down. It has just a single phone cable for connection.

Ok great!

Now off to find the best place to purchase said unit

[redbaron73]

Amazon has it on prime for $179
https://amzn.to/2D5hENw

And the BMK including shunt for $145
https://amzn.to/2D5PD8B

[Canuck53]

Originally Posted by redbaron73

Amazon has it on prime for $179
https://amzn.to/2D5hENw

And the BMK including shunt for $145
https://amzn.to/2D5PD8B

Thanks

I’m assuming the cable with the ARC is not required since it exits already but it’s part of the package?

[C.Martin]

Comes with...but you can simply connect the existing RG6 data cable.

[gkebb]

How does the ME-BMK compare / differ from the Victron VBC?

[redbaron73]

Originally Posted by gkebb

How does the ME-BMK compare / differ from the Victron VBC?

If you are not running solar, then the me-bmk will work with all components and provide excellent power management utilizing the generator to recharge. This is how I run my coach.

With the option of the ac triggering the ags, I can allow the magnum to fully control my generator usage while boondocking, while ensuring that my batteries have enough juice for the overnight quiet hours.

Solar has differing needs, and I am not an expert. I do know that the magnum bmk is not popular for solar.

[redbaron73]

Originally Posted by Canuck53

Thanks

I’m assuming the cable with the ARC is not required since it exits already but it’s part of the package?

The cable is not necessary as the existing cable is a direct match, and already run.

[C.Martin]

Originally Posted by gkebb

How does the ME-BMK compare / differ from the Victron VBC?

Gosh...I hope you meant BMV...

I actually have both.

The Victron BMV-712 and ME-BMK are both battery monitors. They use a sensitive circuit to detect very small voltage differences across a shunt. Basically a calibrated resistor...giving a 50mV difference at 500A.

The circuit uses this information to measure amps going into or out of the battery. It can also use the bank size you tell it to estimate the State of Charge expressed as a percentage.

The ME-BMK has a remote circuit module...can network to the MS2812 inverter...it does not come with a display...the information is displayed on the ME-RC or ME-ARC remote.

The BMV-712 does come with a display. The circuitry is shared between a tiny sense board on the shunt and the display instrument. It has built-in Bluetooth LE and can display information to any smart device running Victron Connect. It has a VE.Direct port for networking with Victron devices. It is VE.Smart wireless network compatible...which means it can talk to a Victron VE.Smart compatible Solar charge controller to refine voltage and temperature compenate with an optional temperature accessory. If NOT using the optional battery temperature, you can alternatively monitor the voltage of your Chassis Battery.

Anyway...

If you have an MS2812 or higher Inverter with a ME-Remote and AGS system. I recommend the ME-BMK...and further recommend upgrade to the ME-ARC advanced remote.

If installing solar...if using the Magnum PT-100 solar charge controller...then you wouldn't need a BMV. You can later add MagWeb if you want remote monitoring.

If installing solar and want a Victron SmartSolar MPPT150/100...then I would recommend the ME-BMK-NS...ME-ARC, plus the BMV-712. The "NS" is no shunt. You can use the Victron Shunt for both the BMV and BMK.

If Lead acid...get the BMV add-on battery temp accesory. IF using Lithium...you can still use that...but you do not usually use temperature coefficient biasing on Lithiums. I would prefer to ue the extra channel to monitor chasis voltage. If remote monitoring VE.Direct cables will share info thru a Venus GX.

Oppss...TMI

So, I hope that gives you an idea of how to proceed. Ask away if you need more clarification.

[gkebb]

Originally Posted by C.Martin

Gosh...I hope you meant BMV...

I actually have both.

The Victron BMV-712 and ME-BMK are both battery monitors. They use a sensitive circuit to detect very small voltage differences across a shunt. Basically a calibrated resistor...giving a 50mV difference at 500A.

The circuit uses this information to measure amps going into or out of the battery. It can also use the bank size you tell it to estimate the State of Charge expressed as a percentage.

The ME-BMK has a remote circuit module...can network to the MS2812 inverter...it does not come with a display...the information is displayed on the ME-RC or ME-ARC remote.

The BMV-712 does come with a display. The circuitry is shared between a tiny sense board on the shunt and the display instrument. It has built-in Bluetooth LE and can display information to any smart device running Victron Connect. It has a VE.Direct port for networking with Victron devices. It is VE.Smart wireless network compatible...which means it can talk to a Victron VE.Smart compatible Solar charge controller to refine voltage and temperature compenate with an optional temperature accessory. If NOT using the optional battery temperature, you can alternatively monitor the voltage of your Chassis Battery.

Anyway...

If you have an MS2812 or higher Inverter with a ME-Remote and AGS system. I recommend the ME-BMK...and further recommend upgrade to the ME-ARC advanced remote.

If installing solar...if using the Magnum PT-100 solar charge controller...then you wouldn't need a BMV. You can later add MagWeb if you want remote monitoring.

If installing solar and want a Victron SmartSolar MPPT150/100...then I would recommend the ME-BMK-NS...ME-ARC, plus the BMV-712. The "NS" is no shunt. You can use the Victron Shunt for both the BMV and BMK.

If Lead acid...get the BMV add-on battery temp accesory. IF using Lithium...you can still use that...but you do not usually use temperature coefficient biasing on Lithiums. I would prefer to ue the extra channel to monitor chasis voltage. If remote monitoring VE.Direct cables will share info thru a Venus GX.

Oppss...TMI

So, I hope that gives you an idea of how to proceed. Ask away if you need more clarification.

Thanks for the info. I am not planning to stall solar. The NewAire has a 3,000-watt Xantrex true sine wave inverter instead of a Magnum. Does that change anything?

[redbaron73]

Originally Posted by gkebb

Thanks for the info. I am not planning to stall solar. The NewAire has a 3,000-watt Xantrex true sine wave inverter instead of a Magnum. Does that change anything?

Yes, it does. You cannot use the magnum bmk, since it has no display, and works with a magnum inverter.

You can use the victron, but it will be for information purposes only, as it cannot control the xantrex.

I do not see a bms option for xantrex.

[C.Martin]

Originally Posted by gkebb

Thanks for the info. I am not planning to stall solar. The NewAire has a 3,000-watt Xantrex true sine wave inverter instead of a Magnum. Does that change anything?

Yes...Do NOT buy a Magnum Battery Monitor. It ONLY works if you have a Magnum system with a remote display.

EDIT...I may be wrong (yes it has happened...just ask my wife). Do you know who makes your AGS module? I would be interested. If you happen to have a ME-AGS-N device hiding in your basement. Then I would inquire to Silverleaf. Did Newmar install a Magnum Energy communication module...is that module compatible with the ME-BMK and can it be displayed on My Rosie? The answers to these questions are above the pay grade of a Ventana Owner. I am admitting I just do not know. If it can allow My Rosie to display SOC and allow programming of the AGS to start based on SOC instead of voltage it would be worth exploring...EDIT.

I would compare Xantrex to the Victron. If Xantrex makes a battery monitor that actually shares information with their inverter...there could clearly be advantages to that. If not...then my recommendation would be for the BMV-712.

You can download the Victron Connect app to your smartphone or tablet for free. It has a demo mode which you can use to check out how different Victron components are displayed. If you like it...it would be a pretty nice installation.

Truthfully...my ME-BMK is used for two purposes. One...to tell my Magnum AGS to start if the SOC falls below my preferred setting...or Two...to do a quick accuracy comparison to validate voltage, amps, and SOC between the BMV and BMK. My go to display for SOC is the Victron Connect app or VRM portal app (requires Venus GX or CCGX).

Sorry, I am not schooled on NewAire. If the solar prep includes a network cable between the basement and control condo. You can make an RG6 to RG45 adapter to make installing the Victron BMV-72 display a snap. No pulling wires.

The reason I left my BMV-712 display in the basement is...I wanted to hardwire (VE.direct cables) it to my Venus GX.

Hope that helps...

[Dutch Star Don]

First, I want to thank "C.Martin", he helped me understand the correct install of a BMK on my previous coach. "Stuart W" also provided some input on data cable use.

The BMK install was pretty easy this time, since all the grounds were easy to access and connect together. The BMK module I mounted on the other side of the battery wall in the pass thru bay that has the Inverter. I drilled a hole through the wall into the battery bay to pass the wires through.

***** VERY IMPORTANT*****

This issue cost me three hours of install time and running around town looking for a data cable! When you install the BMK module (black box) you run a data cable from the module to your Inverter. The data cable looks like an old style phone line, but is different. The data cable is provided with the kit.

Now here is where I had an issue. On my 2019, my Magnum 2800 PS Inverter has four ports where cables can be plugged in. They're all in a row, about a 1/2" apart. There is a red, blue, green and yellow port. The blue port is for the remote display panel in the coach. The blue port had a 2-1 splitter plugged into it with two blue labeled data cables. One is the remote display and I don't recall where the other cable ran to. In the green port, right next to it, is a cable (already plugged in) for the auto gen start (AGS). You need to install the BMK data cable in that green port. Problem.....it already has a cable in it and there is not enough room to install a second splitter (provided), since the blue port splitter is right next to it. Not enough physical room for both.

I tried all kinds of short cables and couplers to space the splitter away from the port so I could plug both in. I even installed another data cable in the port, added a coupler at the end and tried using the splitter. The Magnum would not read anything but the splitter they provide.

I called Magnum and got a female tech, Mary. We discussed the issue and she said I would have to install the splitter in the AGS module where the green cable in the Magnum port runs. I needed to remove the cable, install the splitter and plug the AGS and BMK back into the splitter. I tried this and the BMK fired up and worked. SO I routed all my fires and finished up the project.

I called back later to tell her I got it working. A male tech answered and I told him what I did and that it worked. He tells me.....you don't need to do all that. (You're kidding me...three hours later). He says the blue port and green port are parallel pots and you can plug the green cable into the blue port or green port.

So......if you do the install, you take the splitter they give you, remove one of the blue cables from the splitter already installed, plug in the second splitter into the first splitter and the plug the blue cable and the green cable into the second splitter.

Simple terms......piggyback the provided splitter into the back of the splitter already installed on your coach.

Once you know the above, install goes easy.