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Old 01-12-2019, 04:32 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Canuck53 View Post
What are the key features with the BMK and the upgraded ME-ARC?


I know your question was for me, but I think the answers provided go well beyond anything I could provide.

A lot of good information here, as usual!
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Old 01-12-2019, 06:57 PM   #30
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I guess I'm just a Luddite. I can't even figure out how to program my AGS, too many steps. I still have a landline phone at home and a flip phone for the road. I even subscribe to a newspaper and magazines.
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Old 01-12-2019, 08:22 PM   #31
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Very useful info on the communication cables, but does anyone have some details on how they install the shunt? Iíve looked at the grounds in the battery bay, and there are more than one. I suppose its possible to combine, but how?
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Old 01-12-2019, 10:30 PM   #32
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Very useful info on the communication cables, but does anyone have some details on how they install the shunt? Iíve looked at the grounds in the battery bay, and there are more than one. I suppose its possible to combine, but how?
All grounds from the battery go to one side of the shunt, and all grounds to chassis and inverter go to the other side of the shunt. The lugs get stacked under the shunt bolts.

I added 2 cables, each 4ft long of 2/0 from battery to shunt, and moved all the original grounds going to the battery over to the shunt.

I and arranged the power so that the positive and negative battery connections where taken from opposite corners, allowing the full bank to be used
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Old 01-12-2019, 10:52 PM   #33
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I just took a piece of 2" x 12" steel flat stock, put a bend in it and bolted it to the front of the battery tray, on the left front (as you face the batteries). I bolted the shunt, which has two bolt holes, to the other end. The shunt is now in perfect position for cable connection. This was within inches of the battery ground you need to connect the shunt to. I bought a 9" cable from Tractor Supply and connected the shunt to the battery. I bought one additional 9" cable connected the three ground cables to it (bolted together) and then connected it to the other side of the shunt. It keeps every thing right at the battery tray and moves with the tray.

Keep in mind, you should try and connect to the batteries at opposite ends of the battery bank. Positive at one end of the bank and negative at the other end. This works best if you use the negative cable at the left end of the bank, since the positive cable connects at the back right on the 2019 DS eight battery bank.

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Old 01-12-2019, 11:26 PM   #34
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Don: what gauge is your 9" wire? In the picture it looks to be either 0 or smaller.

Newmar uses 4/0 cable to the inverter, as it can pull over 300 ADC. This would be the weak point and cause a lot of heat if the gauge is too small.

According to the manual, a 4/0 is considered minimum. I chose to run two 2/0 since it exceeds the rating, and is easier to deal with.

https://www.cerrowire.com/products/r...pacity-charts/
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Old 01-12-2019, 11:58 PM   #35
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It's 2/0.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...s?cm_vc=-10005

Actually, the label in the battery bay (upper right hand corner) says 500 amps to the inverter and 200 amps to the miscellaneous grounds in the coach. I called Magnum and asked about the amps, since the shunt is only rated to 500 amps. They felt that there would never be a 700 amp draw all at once. I never run my microwave or cooktop on inverter (personal choice), so there shouldn't be an issue for me.

I'm thinking about going with 1/0, as the 2/0 still looked small. Amazon has this, which will work for mine.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Inter...+battery+cable
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Old 01-13-2019, 12:23 AM   #36
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1/0 is smaller than 2/0

Another way to read it is
0
00
000
0000 = 4/0

If you add a 2nd 2/0 on each end it will be higher capacity than the 4/0.
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Old 01-13-2019, 12:24 AM   #37
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"C.Martin".....If the ME-ARC is added, what should the low battery setting be, in percentage, for AGM's?
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Old 01-13-2019, 04:53 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
"C.Martin".....If the ME-ARC is added, what should the low battery setting be, in percentage, for AGM's?
There are two settings...one for AGS trigger ó- which can be set for a SOC %.,,, and the other is the Inverter LBCO ó- which still is only a voltage.

I go with not running the Lead Acid chemistry down below 50%.

There are a couple of things to consider before setting...

How accurate IS the SOC reading? Well, it isnít going to give you +/- 1.0 x 10-6 Precision. As a matter of fact...if it does within +/- 5%...I could accept that.

So, if you want to stop at 50%...I would use 55%, to allow for error.

But thatís not really using any sound reasoning.

So, in all actuality...I do not have one number I stick with. I look at how I am using the batteries. If I am doing normal plug-in to utility type camping...then my batteries SOC shouldnít be getting low. If they are...then something is wrong. So, I might set SOC as high as 80% to 95% for an AGS trigger. If I am intentionally ďoff the gridĒ:and dry camping. Do not want unneeded generator noise, I may set the SOC trigger for 65% to 95% with(without) quiet time.

The LBCO is also set based on what a I am doing. LBCO is your way of setting a safety net. Obviously, if it triggers...the system is below your comfort level. You are applying a tourniquet to stop bleeding aH. I look at it like this...if the coach is in storage letís say...and you are keeping some items running and your Inverter is turned on. There arenít any huge loads such as hair dryers, coffee makers, microwave...and it could be a couple of days before you can check on the coach. Then setting the LBCO up higher...like maybe 12.2 volts would be good. That is saying...my shore power failed...my battery is draining...AGS either didnít start, or I failed to enable it...so my Batteries are going to continue to drain. They might drain to the point of damaging them. So, as a last ditch effort...weíll turn Off that Inverter and go into conservation mode. Hopefully, it will buy time for someone to come along and plug the shore power back in.

The other way is you are actively camping...you can keep a much closer eye on things...and you are using the coffee pot, microwave, hair dryer. In this case...to prevent a nuisance trip of the Inverter...you set it lower. I usually use around 11.8 or if weíre really firing up the inductive loads maybe 11.6. Again, itís a safety net saying...Iíve lost control of managing my batteries...so turn off the Inverter as a last ditch effort. The LBCO trigger voltage does have a timer. So if you run the inductive load for less than a minute...it wonít necessarily trigger. Some revisions have a two minute delay timer. These timers are to help prevent nuisance trips. (I donít think I have ever used the coffee maker or microwave for less than a minute unless warming a tortilla.)

I asked Magnum Energy why canít I use SOC for LBCO? They answered it was for the safety of the Inverter. Hmmm...I think itís getting deep. I believe the Inverter has a built-in shutdown minimum voltage. To me...LBCO isnít about saving the Inverter. It should be able to do that on itís own. Itís about protecting your sizable investment in batteries. No matter what kind of batteries you own. Itís no fun having to run out and buy new ones because of an unintentional draining.

Anyway...thatís the long and short of it. I am still evolving my setup strategy. I do have the advantage of looking at my Venus graphs to see where voltages go when I run the inductive loads. This helps refine the settings.
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Old 01-13-2019, 05:04 AM   #39
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Very useful info on the communication cables, but does anyone have some details on how they install the shunt? I’ve looked at the grounds in the battery bay, and there are more than one. I suppose its possible to combine, but how?
You need to fabricate one new 4/0 cable. It is the ONLY ground (with the exception of the black wire going to the ME-BMK module) that directly connects to the Battery. The ME-BTS battery temp sensor is left on the battery terminal, unless you are switching to Lithium batteries. The new 4/0 cable goes from the battery to the BATTERY side of the shunt. Everything going into or out of the battery goes thru that fat cable.

The LOAD side of the shunt is where you connect all of those ground cables that you removed.

House, Chassis, Inverter...and Solar if you have it installed.

Important note. Before removing the battery negative cable...First remove the positive going to the Inverter. It’s easy to disconnect at the 350A catastrophic fuse holder. If you don’t...the Inverter may seek another path to ground thru sensitive accessory boards...(ME-AGS or ME-BMK) and scramble thier brains.

I put them all on one side...but had to order a longer bolt. Others add a terminal bus...with multiple points to connect cables.
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:52 AM   #40
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Here's one with a terminal bus for all the grounds.
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Old 01-13-2019, 11:43 AM   #41
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Yep.....should have been 3/0....no more math late at night. Luckily, I found both 3/0 and 4/0 in the short length I need. I'll just feel more comfortable with the larger cable, even though I'm fine with what I have.
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Old 01-13-2019, 01:58 PM   #42
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Inverter Settings

If you find that you need custom cables for your BMK installation I found a source that will make the cables. They have an online matrix that allows to pick the gauge, end types, color, heat shrink, etc. my cables took less than a week to have them made and delivered.
www.bestboatwire.com
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