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Old 01-16-2019, 11:53 AM   #57
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
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I'm a fan of mounting the shunt ( the part that directly bolts to the batteries) as close as possible to the batteries and keeping the battery cables short.

The shunt has two large bolts for connecting the cables. The bolts are long enough to connect one cable, but two or three is tough. So connecting from the shunt to the battery is easy with one cable and the provided bolt. The bolts are a standard thread size, but are brass/bronze. Connecting the other three cables that run to the coach need either a longer bolt or a short cable that bolts to the three cables. Magnum says either method is fine.

On my 2014 and on my 2019, I installed the shunt within inches of where it connects to the battery. I didn't want to run long cables if it wasn't necessary.

In my first photo, I had a smaller battery bank. I took a piece of copper water pipe, flattened it into a flat bar, drilled both ends and used it as both the connection and the mount for the shunt.

In the second photo, with a different battery bank and tray, I just simply used a piece of flat stock, put a bend in it, drilled both ends and attached it to the battery tray and then attached the shunt at the other end. This placed the shunt in perfect position to easily move the three large ground cables. There was no need to reroute them, just clip the tie wraps that held them down. Once they were all connected, I tie wrapped them down again. They never moved from the battery bank, so nothing changed when you slide out the tray.

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Old 01-17-2019, 04:48 PM   #58
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Going back to the OP, the 400 amp setting is probably correct. He is right by dividing his total amp hours by 2 because they are six volt batteries, but he needs to divide by 2 again because even deep cycle batteries should only be taken down to 50% so as to not cause damage to the batteries.
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Old 01-17-2019, 05:44 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by s8t View Post
Going back to the OP, the 400 amp setting is probably correct. He is right by dividing his total amp hours by 2 because they are six volt batteries, but he needs to divide by 2 again because even deep cycle batteries should only be taken down to 50% so as to not cause damage to the batteries.
You don't set battery capacity to what you use, you set it to what they are rated for.
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Old 01-17-2019, 05:59 PM   #60
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What you are referring to is the level of discharge that is considered "dead." Of course 12.2vdc is not dead, but below that you will find the recharge time exponentially more which is annoying when charging via a genset. Plugged in who cares. So if a fully charged battery is 12.8vdc, and a discharged level is 12.2vdc, this is the "half" they are talking about. I find it interesting that the entire useful range of the batteries is only half a volt!!
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Old 01-17-2019, 08:00 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by PeterFTH View Post
What you are referring to is the level of discharge that is considered "dead." Of course 12.2vdc is not dead, but below that you will find the recharge time exponentially more which is annoying when charging via a genset. Plugged in who cares. So if a fully charged battery is 12.8vdc, and a discharged level is 12.2vdc, this is the "half" they are talking about. I find it interesting that the entire useful range of the batteries is only half a volt!!
I'll toss in the difference between voltage readings while under load (Small/Medium/Heavy!) - compared to 'At Rest'. To me (And maybe because of my still semi rookie status of trying to understand these things!), the value of 'voltage while under loads' - is a nice thing to know, but only 'resting' batteries voltages, are meaningful. This then requires some Sophisticated Wild Arse Assumptions...

(And note, PLEASE: This is for batteries where you can not get a turkey baster reading of gravity. AGM's, and Voltage Readings - well...)

Good thread, am enjoying it,
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Old 01-17-2019, 09:16 PM   #62
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"Smitty77".....I was just going to post today on what you discussed..."walking down the batteries". I believe I'm seeing this, as the batteries are not going to 100%. If I read and understood your statement correctly, there are no inverter adjustments to correct this. If so, I'm not going to worry as I'll be adding some solar in the spring. That should send me to Full Charge when parked.
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Old 01-17-2019, 09:21 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
"Smitty77".....I was just going to post today on what you discussed..."walking down the batteries". I believe I'm seeing this, as the batteries are not going to 100%. If I read and understood your statement correctly, there are no inverter adjustments to correct this. If so, I'm not going to worry as I'll be adding some solar in the spring. That should send me to Full Charge when parked.
Don, did you set your absorb to SOC like I posted in #2 of this thread? That is the only way the batteries will get to 100%.
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Old 01-17-2019, 11:33 PM   #64
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Arc vs rc

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Originally Posted by redbaron73 View Post
I swapped out the RC with arc without powering anything down. It has just a single phone cable for connection.
I read that the advanced features of the ARC dont work with the ME2812. Is that correct? I am adding the BMK, but wasn't going to add the ARC because of what I read.
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Old 01-18-2019, 01:55 AM   #65
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"redbaron73".....I ran out and looked.....I can't get to SOC. All I get under Absorb is hours. I don't have the ME-ARC installed. Is that only a setting done with the ME-ARC in place. Next on my list.
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Old 01-18-2019, 03:41 AM   #66
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I am at a loss.

How are you defining SOC 100%?

The ME-BMK has a built-in set of parameters it looks for...and Learns 100%. To my knowledge...it is done based on maintaining the absorb voltage for a set period of time. In some it should also look for a tail current...held at the end of a full charge. You should easily reach 100% again by holding absorb voltage for a set period of time. To me, that is more of an indicator of what FULL or 100% is...not the SOC reading. The SOC reading is just a different way to display charge state in an easy to comprehend method. It is easily miscallibrated at times. I wouldn’t rely on it as the golden rule for charging each and everytime.

The ME-ARC is required for the other settings using SOC. The ME-RC can only display SOC; it can not perform any true SOC based functions.

I don’t think you have to worry about staying in float continuously. If you have solar...the controller generally starts a new bulk each day. I personally think having a full charge each day is more than adequate to prevent sulphation. If worried...you can run a equalization charge, if recommended by the manufacturer.

I personally prefer the CC/CV charge mode on the ME-ARC. For those of us without AGMs that can handle wide open charge rates...it is truly the only way to use the ME-BMK reading to throttle the MS2812 charger relative to solar charge controller output. The CC amps read on the shunt control the MS2812 charger so that your target charge rate is not exceeded. The CV is your absorb voltage...and you can end the charge based on time, tailing amps, or SOC. I use time. The CC/CV allows you to also set your own Rebulk voltage. My Victron SmartSolar MPPT150/100 is what normally charges my batteries...as my rebulk is set low enough that the MS2812 normally is not triggered to bulk charge again; the Victron does a full charge with sunrise each day. It has a max current setting, absorb voltage, max absorb time, and float voltage. In practice...it rarely will go the full absorb time...as it also considers the depth of discharge from your last cycle and tail current based on your aH capacity. This is what my batteries are normally experiencing each day. The Magnum Charger, I’ve noticed will start a bulk charge when I first plug into shore power or have power restoration following a utility pole outage. If I notice it, I usually enter the “Start float”...and it goes “silent” again.

If you have Lithiums or Flooded Lead Acid with a need to observe a lower charge rate..then CC/CV is good. For AGM I think that I would use custom or the preprogrammed AGM parameters by battery type type. iE AGM1 or AGM2, as appropriate.
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Old 01-18-2019, 04:30 AM   #67
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Excellent & very educational. Thank you.
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Old 01-18-2019, 04:49 AM   #68
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Don: yes the ARC is required
You can also set your final stage to float, but I have found that with absorb set to soc I dont have to.

During the learning stage, the soc setting has a default value of a very high number. I was told what it was, but forgot, and don't want to post inaccurate information. Once learned, it will absorb to 100%.

Prior to setting this, my 1 month old system would slowly work it's way down to 90% and the charge to 96%. I would do a manual bulk and float to get to 100%, but it kept walking down.

Once I set this to SOC, it will never drop below 100% while plugged in
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Old 01-18-2019, 07:00 AM   #69
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Some shunt configs here look suspect to me. Don, I thought all grounds were supposed to be on one side, then ground to inverter on other side (or whatever it is, but several grounds on one side, single ground on the other side)? C.Martin can probably chime in here on this...

Redbaron, you have two cables on the non load side, why two? That seems wrong to me as well.

As for ME-ARC settings, here is what I use:

LBCO 11.0 (Newmar recommends 11.9). The reason is you get spikes such as a high load situation and even if for a nanosecond you spike then everything shuts off. Mine should never get to 11.0 because of below:

My AGS is set to come on at SOC of 60% and charge to 90%. This is why my coach should never see LBCO of 11.0. Make sure your AGS is armed and configured properly.

As I have solar I sometimes want to use AC IN SOC meaning my coach (inverter) will use solar down to 65% SOC per my settings and once 65% is reached shore power comes online for the inverter bus. If shore power is not available and it drops to 60% then the AGS brings the GEN online to charge. If all fails then LBCO will get hit and everything shuts down.

The shunt is no fun to install, make sure you protect yourself from the batteries such as putting towels across them and be sure to disconnect the red line from the inverter breaker on the side wall of the battery bay prior to doing anything. Read the instructions front to back twice.

The ME-ARC is outstanding but yes the ME-RC is hard to understand for newbies as it was for me, the ME-ARC is even harder to understand, but with peer support (many thanks to C.Martin) here we can all help educate each other. I wish Newmar would include the ME-BMK and ME-ARC by default.

If you want to order from Amazon here are the links. I absolutely recommend this setup as it really helps you configure the electrics of your coach.

ME-BMK: https://amzn.to/2sIhGFn
ME-ARC (drop in replacement for your ME-RC controller): https://amzn.to/2T1bYtH
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Old 01-18-2019, 07:41 AM   #70
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Redbaron, you have two cables on the non load side, why two? That seems wrong to me as well.
I could have done a single 3/0 cable, but wanted extra load capacity and heat dissipation, so I installed 2 of 2/0 cables, both going to the same battery and lug. It's the same as a single cable as far as the circuit is concerned.
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