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Old 07-22-2016, 05:30 AM   #15
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I'll attach a functional diagram I created for my coach, so you get an idea how everything works together when you have an integrated inverter/converter like the Magnum MS2000. Generically, I have put the inputs on the top of the chart, and outputs on the bottom of the chart. 12V DC circuitry is on the left side of the chart (and shown in dark thick line), and 120V AC circuitry is on the right side (shown in dashed line). The Magnum sits in the middle of all this, and makes it all work seamlessly.

I'll also then mark it up and show you how it works when running off the batteries and it's inverting to make 120VAC, and how there are a set of 120VAC circuits in a subpanel that get powered. The 12VDC circuits get powered from the house batteries. Unmarked, but there also some circuits powered off the chassis batteries.

Then I'll mark it up again, and show you how it works when you are connected to shorepower. Both legs of power pass thru the transfer switch, and feed your main circuit breaker box. In my case, 4 circuits off the B leg on the right, and 4 circuits off the A leg on the left. One of those circuits feeds the Magnum, some of that current feeds the converter which is charging back up the house batteries and powering the 12V circuits. The rest of it passes thru the Magnums transfer switch, and then feeds the subpanel of circuits.

There are three distinct functions of the Magnum.
- It performs as a converter(charger), taking 120VAC and converting it to 12VDC to charge the house batteries. In my model, it will charge up to 100Amps DC
- It performs as an Pure Sine Wave inverter, taking 12VDC from the house batteries, and making up to 17 amps of 120VAC. That is fed to the input of it's transfer switch.
- There is a transfer switch, the two inputs are the inverted power it can make (17Amps), or the 120VAC sourced from the shorepower (30Amps). That transfer switch will pass one of those on to the subpanel box.
There's a number of configuration settings in the Magnum controller (RC-50, or ARC-50 if you also want to use a BMK shunt. The BMK w/ARC-50 allow you to manage with SOC State of Charge). Those settings tweak how the Magnum charges and inverts.

In my case, the circuit breaker box has two pieces to it, a main and a subpanel. However, you could just do that with two separate boxes if easier.


Hope this gives you the big picture how everything works together, as well as the details to see how everything is connected.
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:22 AM   #16
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This post I just wrote for someone will also give you info you need and in QT's # 3 there is a section just on inverter/converters.
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Old 07-22-2016, 04:18 PM   #17
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Thanks guys much appreciated.
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Old 07-22-2016, 07:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noserider View Post
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on my residential fridge install and toss my Dometic NDR 1062. My plan is to purchase a 1000 watt PSW inverter with an internal transfer switch that will be dedicated to the fridge. My coach has the factory installed converter charger along with a BIRD. Currently I have 2 golf cart 6 volt batteries for the house. I have room for 2 more. I will mostly use the inverter to power the fridge while driving using the alternator to keep the batteries charged. I may add 2 more batteries later if needed but I think it's best to purchase 4 new batteries rather than add 2 new ones to an existing bank. My batteries are 5 years old and seem to be doing fine for now. I realize 2 will not give me much time for the fridge on battery power. Based on my current setup do you think the 1000 watt dedicated inverter is the way to go or would you replace the old converter charger with an inverter charger? Any advantages to keeping my converter charger and adding the dedicated inverter for fridge besides less $$$ ?
With a residential fridge you will be much happier with 4 6V batteries since you have the room. It is a given that you will need an inverter to run the fridge. It's just a matter of how much convenience you want. Do you want the capability of running the RF on shore power w/o manually switching things around? An inverter/charger will do so seamlessly w/o you even know there was an interruption. It will also switch back to the batteries if there is a sudden loss of power. It's like having a UPS.
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Old 07-22-2016, 10:13 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Scottybdivin View Post
With a residential fridge you will be much happier with 4 6V batteries since you have the room. It is a given that you will need an inverter to run the fridge. It's just a matter of how much convenience you want. Do you want the capability of running the RF on shore power w/o manually switching things around? An inverter/charger will do so seamlessly w/o you even know there was an interruption. It will also switch back to the batteries if there is a sudden loss of power. It's like having a UPS.
Agreed. I can do everything you mention with a dedicated inverter for fridge with a built in transfer switch. Very easy install this way leaving EVERYTHING just the way it is and add the inverter. I'm reading up on how to delete my converter charger and add an inverter charger with more WATTS and capability to recharge batts faster. Either way I go I'll end up with 4 new 6 volt batts most likely.
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