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Old 11-27-2015, 08:47 PM   #1
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ISL Fan Speed

Has anybody approached FL on the issue of the ISL cooling fan always being on high speed?. Are we to just go around with the fan controller bypassed (thereby shifting it to a low speed) to get our fuel mileage to a reasonable number?
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Old 11-27-2015, 09:43 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alan1 View Post
Has anybody approached FL on the issue of the ISL cooling fan always being on high speed?. Are we to just go around with the fan controller bypassed (thereby shifting it to a low speed) to get our fuel mileage to a reasonable number?
Since the thread by resullivan dated 8/19/15 ran on for 7 pages and 91 posts without anyone coming up with an answer on fan speed and engine temps I guess no one has got an answer yet. I've been trying to follow that thread in case someone does solve our problem.
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Old 11-28-2015, 08:11 AM   #3
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Anybody going to the Tampa show? Question Freightliner and Newmar. Normally Freightliner is at the bigger shows. I saw them at Hershey but the I did not know of the issue at that time since I'm a window shopper at this time.
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Old 11-28-2015, 09:22 AM   #4
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Has anybody approached FL on the issue of the ISL cooling fan always being on high speed?. Are we to just go around with the fan controller bypassed (thereby shifting it to a low speed) to get our fuel mileage to a reasonable number?
Since the default fan setting is high, getting it to full time low will take some work.

Like; relays, switches and some wiring. Plus the ability to ignore the now always on check engine light.

Testing to see if you fan is stuck on high is a very long ordeal. If you go to Gaffney, you can talk to them about testing your coach.
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Old 11-28-2015, 11:37 AM   #5
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I found a something that may be of interest to some. While looking at changing the actual fan blades to a more efficient blade (did this on my Monaco), I spoke to the manufacturer of the fan blade, Source Engineering, a sponsor on this site.

He told me that they have a thermal switch, which installs in the coolant line that controls the fan. It has VARIABLE speeds. It costs about $600.00. It sounds like a great solution, but I don't know if disconnecting the OEM electronics will cause Check Engine Lights. I gave the info to "resullivan". I don't know if he has done anymore research.
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Old 11-28-2015, 12:22 PM   #6
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On the 2014/15 XCR chassis the fan control is a 12V output from the engine controller which provides 12V to the fan controller for low speed. It turns off when the dash air is turned on or when the engine temp is low. There is no diagnostics in the ECM for lack of low speed fan operation. Since the only feedback to the ECM is coolant temperature, you could use an external fan controller as long as it keeps the coolant temp below the over temp limit.
Is this controller s new product for Source Engineering? I did not see it on their web page.
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Old 11-28-2015, 01:32 PM   #7
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I was discussing hot wiring it to low.

Source Engineering is a different animal all together.

I would consider trying the Source Engineering.
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Old 11-28-2015, 03:18 PM   #8
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As to the temp issue (must be 200-205 degrees at that time)for resullivan, Cummins just closed the case on his temp issue... they decided a OTR temp ranging from 175-200 is acceptable.

It is not difficult to determine if the fan is running at top speed. I disconnect the power and if there is no change in speed it is at top speed since the default is full speed should 12v power to the controller be lost. I have done this a lot and never heard the fan speed up, also I and resullivan now get much better mileage with the ecm directly tied to the fan clutch.
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Old 11-29-2015, 05:03 AM   #9
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What alan1 said.
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:46 AM   #10
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Fan Speed Update, (long) After spending some 6 plus weeks ( 3 weeks in service, and 3 weeks doing OTR testing) dealing with the fan clutch/controller issue this past summer, ( this due to Cummins chasing an engine temp operating number that they have now declared to be "inaccurate information") This is what I can tell you: my fan clutch/controller was replaced several times with NO change in operation/temp from the original one. Testing involved doing rpm tests on fan speeds with coach parked in service and my doing OTR testing on my own for over 2000 miles. Here is what I have learned; I was given several different versions of how/why the fan clutch/controller worked, by Horton, during this time. the last one being that the fan clutch controller (called a Guard Dog) "is there to ramp up the fan rpm when going into the "high" or lock up position, to protect the fan clutches from damage due to sudden engagement", their words not mine. here is my take on that; according to Horton "the fan clutch is a viscous coupling engaged by a solenoid as directed by a reader that reads rpm via the fan bolts, and is directed by the controller to start speeding up the fan" since this is a viscous coupling, and thru actual testing, takes anywhere from 60-75 seconds to engage to high when called to do so, there is NO sudden engagement of the fan. After testing over 2000 miles, including over 600 miles in the Rocky Mountains of CO, this is how my coach runs; with the controller CONNECTED the OTR temps range from 180-185, peaking at about 188 going over high mtn passes, fuel mileage averages about 5.2 mpg, and there is a noticeable lack of power...with the controller BYPASSED the OTR temps range from 180- 200 (depending on ambient temps) with 210 being seen going over high mtn passes, at which time the fan comes onto high, and temps immediately drop back to the operating range, fuel mileage is about 7.5 mpg, with a noticeable increase in power. According to Cummins the fan consumes 51 HP when locked on high speeds. this is my experience with this to date, others may differ, just sayn.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:46 PM   #11
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Okay does this mean Cummins is going to change anything. Are you going to continue to bypass the controller?
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:14 PM   #12
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I am sure both Richard and I will continue to by pass the controller since it results in much better MPG. He will chime in if I am wrong. I was able to get both FL. and Newmar on a conference call today to discuss this issue and my controller will be replaced again and the wiring looked at again. This time I will allow a week to stay at the repair dealer. Maybe when they say they can't find a problem even after replacing the controller again, I will have the time to wait until the problem is found. Those drivers with this chassis that are getting 5.5 to 6 MPG I think need to have this issue checked and need to get with FL and have it checked out.
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:06 PM   #13
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I am sure both Richard and I will continue to by pass the controller since it results in much better MPG. He will chime in if I am wrong. I was able to get both FL. and Newmar on a conference call today to discuss this issue and my controller will be replaced again and the wiring looked at again. This time I will allow a week to stay at the repair dealer. Maybe when they say they can't find a problem even after replacing the controller again, I will have the time to wait until the problem is found. Those drivers with this chassis that are getting 5.5 to 6 MPG I think need to have this issue checked and need to get with FL and have it checked out.
Alan, I had the same issues with my 2014 dutchstar. They replaced the fan clutch and it still was always on high. They thought that the new fan clutch was defective. They couldn't get another one for a couple days and I had to get home. I had been in contact with Joe at freightliner who I highly recommend. I have been in the marine business for many years and did a lot of repair and trouble shooting. I called Joe when I got home and he sent me the wiring diagram for the fan system. Long story short we tracked it down to a bad ground. I added another ground wire direct from the frame and now everything works correctly. You can tell if the fan shifts to low by opening your drivers window, start the engine and rev it to around 1500. It will sound like a jet engine running. In about a minute and a half to two and half minutes the noise drops off and it quiets right down. It sounds like you let off the throttle but as you look at your tach you should still see 1500 rpm. If it doesn't quite down your clutch is stuck on high. We also replaced the module just as a precaution. If they haven't already, make sure they check the ground, and maybe run a new direct ground wire to it.
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:25 PM   #14
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That is exactly the type of info I need. I have no doubt the clutch stays on high. I will check ground issues tomorrow. Thanks
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