Kitchen Slide Dead

[Buly]

Originally Posted by Charlie and Martha

Are the locks not releasing? I am just shooting in the dark here but check your wiring for this slide (In the basement) if may be as simple as you shoved something in the compartment and dislodged the wiring or damaged one wire.

1. Check for something jamming the mechanism. On ours we experienced multiple issues with slides when we first got the coach. The bedroom bed slide wouldn't come in. In our case the problem was two fold. First my wife loaded the storage under the bed with books. One jammed under the bed frame and wouldn't let the room move in or out.

Our kitchen slide had the same problem but in this case the potentiometer on the controller had to be adjusted to apply more voltage to the motor to make it move.

2. The slides also (all of the slide) have mechanical stops. The stops are washers/nuts on the threaded rods that are mounted basement for the stop. You can see them when the room is deployed outwards. My mechanical stops were all loose (the jam nuts backed off from each other) presumably from vibration. It was easy to see where they were (the threaded rods were shinier at the correct location) so after careful adjustment (google in the search bar above in IRV2) I used blue locktite to keep them there.

3. Something you might try is get a couple of guys to help you and try to "bump" the room tight to that outside wall. Why? If it's only slightly missing the magnetic switches you may be able bump into compliance so it will open/close. Worked for us. Once open you can look at the mechanical stops and adjust the nuts and tightened them back up (if they're loose).

4. There is a voltage adjustment on the controllers that will let you apply more or less voltage to the motors on your slides. Each is adjustable with a potentiometer on the controller board.

If your room is sluggish opening or closing, this potentiometer can and does make a difference in how the motor operates or doesn't operate. Don't adjust this until you've done your homework. But, once you learn how do it be very careful. Clockwise turns increase voltage and tension of the room closing tighter and counter clockwise is the opposite of cours.

If and when you do this look at the potentiometer as if it were a clock. Move to increase or decrease one minute at a time. Each time you change try the room (best done with two people and a walky talky). Keep going (one minute at a time +/-) until the desired result happens. If you can't get it adjusted it's best to either seek professional help or replace the board (about $175 available on Amazon and Ebay as well as the factory).

Just to be clear, these were my experiences and yours may differ with your understanding and skills set.

Hope some of this helps you.

Thanks Charlie,
Will try all that, but my wife is dragging me all over Graceland [emoji3]

[Buly]

Originally Posted by Jeff426

Did you try a new slide controller? Which is located in the passenger slide aft bay just forward of the pegboard bay.
All the best,
Jeff and Lynn

Hi Jeff,
While on the phone with Newmar, l switched controllers. No change. But bedroom and kitchen controllers were different?

[racer0624]

Buly,
We both have the newer mechanical locks, no motor/actuator. Just a rod going down to a paddle on the outside lower corners that contact the frame as the slide comes in. If switching the controllers didn't work, have your co-pilot push the slide button while you listen for a hum or try to check for a signal going to the motor and go from there. Not likely, but it could even be the switch itself.

[Buly]

Originally Posted by racer0624

Buly,

We both have the newer mechanical locks, no motor/actuator. Just a rod going down to a paddle on the outside lower corners that contact the frame as the slide comes in. If switching the controllers didn't work, have your co-pilot push the slide button while you listen for a hum or try to check for a signal going to the motor and go from there. Not likely, but it could even be the switch itself.

Thank you Racer. The switch was next on my list.

[wagonmaster2]

Buly, I know how you feel having to travel without the kitchen slide. We needed to have our kitchen slide motor bracket replaced but had a 6 week vacation scheduled and reserved already when the problem with the bracket was discovered. Made that trip without being able to use the kitchen slide. It's very doable but very inconvenient. Used the other 2 slides but couldn't have any dances in the living area.

[Jeff426]

Yes, they are! When we had that issue, they sent me the new part and I replaced. Everything was good from there. Sorry for your trouble!
Jeff and Lynn

[Buly]

My bedroom and kitchen slide actuators are different. Is that normal?

["007"]

Yes there are different slide controls within same coach and is possible.
This link will show you many of them through the years.

[Buly]

I sent an email to customer support of Intelitec, the manufacturer of the slide controllers. Chris Bayus called me back within 2 minutes. Without telling him, he knew it was a Newmar coach. Told me that had ongoing problems with Newmar, due to poor grounding. He insisted that I cut the 5 pin plug leacing 5-6" lead and splicing same gauge wire (AWG10) and grounding it directly to the house battery NEG post, or to the inverter NEG terminal.
He said to do it to all slide controllers.
They had one guy replaced 5 slide controllers in one month due to this problem.
Today I was able to work again due to back problem, and removed the suspect slide controller. Here is what I found:
The one on the left is the defective one , and the one on the right is the new replacement

[Charlie and Martha]

So the difference (I see) is they replaced the metal capacitor with a ceramic? I thought it was ground problems. What am I missing? sorry for the confusion.

[Buly]

Here is his answer:
"It's a good possibility that the grounding problem can cause this kind of failure. One of the things that happens with the grounding problem is a floating ground problem. This floating ground causes excessive current draw and odd transient spikes, which can wipe out this part. Feel free to call or email with any other questions.

Thanks
Chris Bayus
M&M RV Electronics
419-965-2662
419-965-3014 "

["007"]

It could be no problem with a ground condition but the failed metal capacitor not able to carry the high current the motor needed to operate.the slide and close the control as more current is drawn when the motor draws to a stop on opening or closing the slide.
The capacitor eventually broke down.
The sandstone should be able to handle current flow better.

My take on his floating ground problem would be a loose connection on fuse panel or poor ground connection from battery ground cable to the chassis frame because of dirty loose connection which can cause high resistance connection.
This link has info on poor ground connections.

Buly has a fairly new coach would think all ground cables and wiring should be tight and clean, found on my coach when I bought it some problems when starting engine, turned out to be loose ground connection on negative of battery with the loose screw type connection, so stuff will happen even on a new coach.

[bobsharon]

Just a comment...component is a .040 ohm resistor, not a capacitor.

[Buly]

Originally Posted by bobsharon

Just a comment...component is a .040 ohm resistor, not a capacitor.

Any idea how to get a replacement? I sent a picture to Digi Key, but no answer yet