Leaking front axle seals 2005 Essex-Spartan Chassis

[HSTEIN]

I have a 2005 Essex with a Spartan Chassis. Now have about 55,000 miles and I have had the front axle seals replaced three times (Cummins Dealer, Spartan Factory, and Newmar)they are leaking again. Any similar problems out there?

[HSTEIN]

I have a 2005 Essex with a Spartan Chassis. Now have about 55,000 miles and I have had the front axle seals replaced three times (Cummins Dealer, Spartan Factory, and Newmar)they are leaking again. Any similar problems out there?

["007"]

Welcome HSTIEN to the Newmar forum and irv2.
Checking the find info you maybe a first with this problem. We do have quite a few ESSEX owners I'm sure someone will chime in to help.
I'll short cut your question to Spartan forum also.
Enjoy the forums and do post often.

[Lug_Nut]

Welcome to the forum. Where is it leaking from, innner or from the outer hub? What did they replace or repair each of the service times?
I don't believe this is an issue normally, but let's see who comes along with some insight.

Peter

[HSTEIN]

It is my understanding that the seals are behind the bearings. It starts with visible radiations of oil residue coming from under the hub cap out onto the wheel. Spartan runs a 90/120 oil in the axles. The tighness of the bolts can also be an issue but I should not have to carry a torque wrench around after authorized repair. The oil level has never dropped to the add level. The front axle bearing Spartan uses is a commercial standard except for one radius - they just imported new bearing from Spain for the last fix.

[RVDude]

hstein: Could you specify what was replaced during your three bearing repairs?

Not that it makes much difference, Rayco/Granning (makers of the IFS front assembly) recommend 80W/90 gear oil. Spartan seems to also suggest running a full-synthetic as well. I've converted all my hubs to Valvoline full-synthetic gear oil.

Each front hub takes about 16oz. There is an inner spindle/axle seal and the outer is sealed by the hub cover view window assembly. It is normal for a tad of oil to moisten around the central rubber plug. Only other source of outer leakage (as indicated by your oiled hubcaps) would be the drain plug or the hub cover window gasket or the window assembly itself. I'd Teflon tape the drain plug (careful not to get any inside) and if really necessary silicone the hub cover gasket. Neither of these screws should be over tightened much beyond snug. These would be rather extreme measures though. I can't see how inner seal leakage would migrate to the hub cap without making a mess on the inside of the wheel/tire first.

[Lug_Nut]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">ot that it makes much difference, Rayco/Granning (makers of the IFS front assembly) recommend 80W/90 gear oil. Spartan seems to also suggest running a full-synthetic as well. I've converted all my hubs to Valvoline full-synthetic gear oil. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'm at the same altitude as the Dude, Synthetic oil 70w/90 as I recall. I don't know if syn comes in 80w/90.
But, Jeff has it right.

Peter

[rebelsbeach]

16k miles on the LADB when I was in Nappanee and they did my right front seal.... streaks were showing out of the cap.

[Lug_Nut]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">16k miles on the LADB when I was in Nappanee and they did my right front seal.... streaks were showing out of the cap. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Bob, It might have been over filled. The heat on running hard can cause expansion causing such issues. Anyway, The Tiffen also uses Spartan chassis's so you can still ride with us on this one. It's not a Newmar issue. Oh, and forget the Powerglide. That bad boy probably will slide off the drawing board given the industry pulse at this juncture.

Peter

[RVDude]

The Valvoline Full Synthetic (in the gold bottle) is actually 75w-90 at about $8/qt. Available at any NAPA and many other sources.

There are full synthetics, blended synthetics, and non-synthetics. Pick your poison. It's all good. Keep it (viscosity) in the 70/90 range not the thicker 90/120/140 ranges - you want flow around the bearings.

To convert, just do a couple drain-n-fill changes allowing a few good warming miles in between. At 16oz ea. front and 8oz. ea. tag it's a cheapo and easy conversion. The claim is that full synthetics give better flow and adhesion - hence, probably why Spartan fills with full synthetic after doing the tag bearing campaign - which is what got me to do the fronts. You know, the keep it simple thing of minimizing the variety of fluids (except in the Liqueur cabinet).

[rebelsbeach]

Peter, the verdict on any future MH purchase is under review at this time.... seems more likely that I'll purchase a place in the next six months for that sport-fish to berth.... As that'll more than likely stretch the purse strings, we'll have to see.