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Old 05-17-2018, 09:03 PM   #1
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Level 1st or slide outs

2014 Newmar MA-In the owners manual in the space of one page they(Newmar) contradicts itself. In one paragraph they say lower and level first then slide out but in another paragraph just the opposite. So at this point is it just opinion?

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Old 05-17-2018, 09:13 PM   #2
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On my Dutch Star I lower and level first then deploy the slides. I believe, if memory serves me well, that on the MHs with full wall slides, they want you to deploy first then level.

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Old 05-17-2018, 09:22 PM   #3
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I have been told that Newmar says to extend the slides and then level the coach. But it’s is opposite of every other manufacturer that I’m aware of.

To be sure you should probably check with Newmar.
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:37 PM   #4
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I've tried to understand the physics and engineering aspects of the slide deployment and coach leveling sequence, but still don't have a definitive answer. In general, I extend the slides and then level UNLESS I am on a very uneven surface. Then, I reverse the sequence; level first, then deploy slides.

My procedure is based on the theory that minimizing chassis twist is the desired goal. When you are on a fairly flat, level surface, twist is already minimized, so slides can come out first. On an uneven surface, I like to get the coach leveled with the slides in so that when they are extended, there's less opportunity for chassis twist.

You an take my theory with a grain of salt, however; I am neither an engineer nor a physicist. That said, I am pretty mechanically adept and have a fair understanding of how mechanical things work.

I'd love to hear other theories involving the extend/leveling sequence.

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Old 05-17-2018, 09:53 PM   #5
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I think both Entegra and Newmar now recommend to put slides out FIRST then level. The theory is that tolerances are much closer on newer sleds and the house to be level on the from, not level to the ground. I know that on an Entegra (mine) that if you do not do it this way the slides can and will bind and not move! Makes sense if you think about it, if you are on unlevel ground and level the house you may and will have a twist on the frame. Whiles this does not hurt the gram it will bind the slides if you try to move them. Just my experience.
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Old 05-17-2018, 10:44 PM   #6
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I have a 2002 Newmar KS. Iím sure the manual says level, then slides. Iím going to look it up again when I get home from work...
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Old 05-18-2018, 12:27 AM   #7
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I believe the manual says slides out and then level for our Ď17 Dutch Star 4369. However the Spartan Chassis is so strong I donít think that it makes any difference. So I do it both ways. Really see no difference.
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Old 05-18-2018, 04:48 AM   #8
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The following is directly from a Newmar service bulletin. The key point is to check before you extend to verify there is a gap between the slide and body of the my. While the information is targeted for FWS’s it is good practice to do the gap check on smaller slides as well.


Motorhomes, as all vehicles, flex in travel. Flexing may be different due to terrain and the coach’s fulcrums (resting on tires or jacks). This is normally not an issue for coaches without a full wall slide-out. Although the jacks and the slide-out mechanism are both welded to the chassis frame, with a full wall slide-out, you have a large box (the slide), inside another large box (the coach) and they both flex, especially the coach. As the coach flexes, this movement is more noticeable in the outside reveal due to the wider slide-out.
Additional care should be taken once the coach is parked. Before operating the full wall slide-out, one should walk around the driver’s side and look at the “reveal” or “gap” of the two vertical wall trims around the full wall slide-out to make sure there is plenty of clearance so the trim will not rub when running the slide-out to the out position. If the gap looks good then the slide out can be operated. If the gap is tight in one or more places, try leveling the coach to see if that corrects it, then operate the slide out. If at any time there is cause for concern, do not operate the slide-out and call Newmar Customer Service.
PLEASE NOTE: Most often the gap will look best when sitting on the tires and not the jacks.
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Old 05-18-2018, 05:29 AM   #9
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My 45' 2005 all electric is a "dump air/level/deploy slides" sequence.

However, my real sequence is:

1) check the site and find the best position for near level.
2) pull in, check the bathroom door for excess swing ... if it stays in position I call it "good enough" ... if not, I reposition the bus.
3) Unlock the basement doors, check the pedestal AC and if good, plug in ... if not, find another site.
4) turn off ign, wait for AC transfer, dump the air, walk around and check clearances and reveals, deploy the slides, set the steps to "always out".
5) enjoy the day .... I don't use jacks/leveling (I do check the function every month or so).
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Old 05-18-2018, 07:01 AM   #10
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Newmar for years produced their own slide systems up to 4 slides with electric motors and cog wheels with rails to move them.
Than came the FWS which they had duel electric motors of theirs than change to the of today.
If you have four slides you level first than deploy your slides.
If you have a FWS with duel motors you deploy FWS first while air up than level with jacks and deploy your remaining slides.
This thread explains the different slide systems from QT's # 3 and other slide information for older coach slide systems can be found in QT's 1 & 2.
Which ever FWS System you have its important to check the reveal before deploying the slides or you could have this result.
To add to your confusion we also have gas coachs with the 4 slides and FWS's and you need this thread to follow the correct procedures, notice the reveal of the FWS still appears in this FWS operation.
So its best to follow your Newmar members advice and not other MFG Owners advise, you own a Newmar coach so follow the Newmar owners advise.
You now have all Newmar slide systems operations you follow which ever combination of slides you have and enjoy your open space and trouble free operations.
Fallow Bruceisla's directions and stay out of trouble if you have 4 slides.
All links below in my signature have answers for your Newmar.
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Old 05-18-2018, 07:59 AM   #11
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Why create the potential of some unnecessary binding by not leveling FIRST then deploying the slides. Stated a different way, if you know you'll need to level your MH, why wouldn't you do that first before deploying the slides?
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Old 05-18-2018, 09:01 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by tizzyfit View Post
Why create the potential of some unnecessary binding by not leveling FIRST then deploying the slides. Stated a different way, if you know you'll need to level your MH, why wouldn't you do that first before deploying the slides?
That's exactly what you do with your year coach slides systems, when you buy a new coach with FWS you have more things to consider when deploying your slides or you may run into trouble with your nice new coach.
Newmar for your convince has opened up your MH to open space and to enjoy that open space you have more responsibility to operate the slides correctly, you just do not have the convenience of just pushing a button anymore.
If you do a Newmar search you will see some disastrous FWS operations gone foul.
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Old 05-18-2018, 09:12 AM   #13
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Referencing 007's post above: I have never understood why people don't read and follow the owners manuals or service bulletins for their brand/model of whatever. The manufacturer usually has the latest and best information.
I followed Newmar's instructions on both our DSDP's and it worked out well.
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Old 05-18-2018, 09:15 AM   #14
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FWS were a game changer, Newmar recommends to deploy the FWS while aired up in driving condition. When you think about it, the suspension should be able to absorb reasonable differences in the surface. The problem with Auto leveling jack systems is that sometimes they twist the frame of the MH (suspension is out of the equation and canít compensate). Itís been documented many times that manual leveling can achieve level totally different then auto leveling. IE: corners not as high in the exact same spot as auto level, the auto level may go to high on the right front, and the raise the left front to compensate, instead of lowering the right back down.


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