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Look what I found! Slide Out Mechanism Problem
Old 12-18-2010, 01:03 PM   #1
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Yesterday I was unloading some stuff from the storage compartment under the driver’s side front slide-out; I happen to look up at the slide-out operating mechanism for some reason, look what I saw :



The silde-out has 2 operating mechanisms that work in unison, this damage is on the rear mechanism. Further investigation found the slide-out travel limit/stop rod and bracket assembly that tore out of the hole was flush against the sidewall slide-out recess flange. Pictures below show that travel limit/stop mechanism and bracket.






Do not know when this happened therefore how long this has been that way. Apparently the failure happened when slide-out was at the end of the retraction cycle because the bracket and threaded rod assembly that tore out remained flush in the slide-out side wall recess (stowed position). If it had broke at any other time in a slide-out operating cycle there was good chance that the slide-out could have been retracted over the top of the hanging travel limit/stop mechanism. If that had happen I could have really caused some damage. The second picture shows how the bracket and threaded rod assembly just hangs down (un-supported) when it is out of the stowed position. Lucky, lucky, lucky me .

When I manually extend the slide-out limit/stop mechanism mounting bracket out fully from the side wall (stowed position) it comes about 1” short from covering the hole that it tore out of, not good . I checked to ensure that there were no interferences or obstructions that the limit/stop mechanism could have came in contact with, none found. Measured the distance the slide-out was extended away from the coach the rear side is out 1/4” more than the front side which is expected due to the loose of the travel limit/stop mechanism. It appears to me that there is no elongation of the slide-out mechanism around the tear, nor does the bracket that tore out of the operating mechanism show signs of bending. This slide out has never indicated any sign of not being out the same distance on the front and the rear since we purchased the coach, nor has the slide-out mechanism or controller ever been worked on or adjusted. I can only imagine the amount of force it took to tear the bracket and weld out of the operating mechanism tubing. This can give you an idea of the power that the slide-out operating motor is capable of developing.

I can only surmise that this limit/stop assembly was adjusted a bit too short.
Why the slide controller did not turn off on the motor is beyond me, it turns off just fine when front part of the operating mechanism reaches its end of travel!
Have I been bit by a bad weld, metal fatigue, or some combination of?

Going in for repairs on Monday morning, have sent an email with pictures to Newmar Customer Service explaining what I found, asked them what the correct fix is, what the causes and/or cause could be and if I/we should be concerned about more failures of this nature. Also asked them who pays, this is obviously not what one would call normal wear and tear! Coach is outside of its 1 year warranty but still inside of the structural warranty.

Has anyone else ever experienced this before, or heard of it happening to someone?

Also if anyone has any suggestions that might lead to the discovery of the cause they would be greatly appreciated. General comments are also welcome.

Larger pictures are available in the members photo section under Spikester.

Nice Christmas present huh!

Spike

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Old 12-18-2010, 01:20 PM   #2
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All I can add is that we have had units with slides and I am so glad that we are now slide-less. They are great for the space, but as a unit ages, they are a constant source of maintenance.

ken

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Old 12-18-2010, 02:57 PM   #3
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You think the controller is set to high on the lockout? could be overstressing when hitting the stop.
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Old 12-18-2010, 03:37 PM   #4
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I'd take it to a good welding shop, show them how the slide operates, and get their ideas as to the best repair, with reinforcement of that weld, and the remaining ones on the rest of the slide stop mechanisms - should be a relatively inexpensive repair.

I'm with Ken - unless a MH is to primarily remain in one place, with relatively minimal travel, slides seem to rank right up there with rubber roofs for most frequent potential issues...
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Old 12-18-2010, 05:05 PM   #5
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GaryK7GLD....
I am trying to undestand the logic behind a MH slides not being used 7 times per week and their attrition per your comments.....
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Old 12-18-2010, 05:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renden View Post
GaryK7GLD....
I am trying to undestand the logic behind a MH slides not being used 7 times per week and their attrition per your comments.....
Dunno - but the many scattered reported incidents from owners on boards like this one as to their being stuck in CG's when they can't get their slides closed, or out on the roadway when one came partly out on it's own - and then won't retract - or the ones that tear out floor tiles or carpeting as they retract - or the water damage or drafts from poor or failed seals - or the loss of hydraulic fluid in the systems using hydraulic, or stripped gears and burnt out drive motors on the mechanical systems - or the burnt out wiring, switches, or control circuits, or....

Well, I guess you get the idea - and for us no-sliders, guess we'll just get in, and drive!

Yeah, rationalization from the have-not wannabe's I suppose - now, back to the thread topic...
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Old 12-18-2010, 07:56 PM   #7
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First time I have heard of your problem.
You have a newer coach so something isn't correct.
You may want to measure the distance between the stop nuts on both rails and see if there is a difference. Think you mention slide when out was off 1/4" but the one with broken rod bracket space between nuts maybe to short.
I have looked at my rods and brackets before looking for loose nuts making sure the double nuts are tight to one another but this is something different.
Thanks for the post and pictures.
You may only have to pull slide in to align up broken bracket to hole for welding but would think weld shop will want to reinforce the brake point location or weld a new bracket completely to that spot.



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Old 12-19-2010, 08:14 AM   #8
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Newmar has the best slide system for rv's. The 2 things that happen most often
1. Manual locks locked and trying to open a slide causes a lot of needless issues.
2. Issues with automatic locks.
Eliminate those 2 issues and the Newmar slide system is pretty much trouble free. With that said as with anything mechanical/electrical that travels down the road will have issues.
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Old 01-13-2011, 08:01 PM   #9
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that wasnt bad welds, it was weak/thin metal. The welds came off the surface with some of the metal with it. That assembly is not designed correctly:

1.) bog thick plate mounted to a thin surface.
2.) no protection for over -stress. There should have been a fail safe designed in.

Cant tell from the pictures, but looks as if the panel welded to was thin and the weld burned thru and weakened it. Good place for shear rivets instead of welding (shear off if something jams)

Beware of reinforcing it, that may cause a worse failure elsewhere.

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