Loud Annoying Entry Door Squeak

[LeslieGary]

Originally Posted by Stuart W

The bolt is 5/8”

Don, thanks. I have once again benefitted from your wise counsel.

[LeslieGary]

Originally Posted by Stuart W

If you shut the door normal without slamming note the relationship to the door and jamb. Now slam the door putting pressure on the door in the latch area, look at the door and jamb now should be in more

Stuart, I took another look at my door. If you close the door catch with your finger (obviously without closing the door) it does indeed have two catch positions. Oddly, I don’t think our door makes it to the second closure no matter how hard I shut the door (no visible difference in how flush the door is to the side of the coach). I’ll continue to experiment with it.

And thanks for the bolt size; both you and Don are true mentors. I don’t know that I would have ever figured this one out.

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by LeslieGary

Stuart, I took another look at my door. If you close the door catch with your finger (obviously without closing the door) it does indeed have two catch positions. Oddly, I don’t think our door makes it to the second closure no matter how hard I shut the door (no visible difference in how flush the door is to the side of the coach). I’ll continue to experiment with it.



And thanks for the bolt size; both you and Don are true mentors. I don’t know that I would have ever figured this one out.

Your welcome, close the door using both hands placing your left hand over the latch area of the door and close it firmly while also pressing in on the area of the latch with your left hand. When it’s all the way in it’s very flat to the side wall and jamb. When closed all of the way, you will have to apply more pressure to the door handle to get it to open. That’s when you will know you got it to the second latch. I have heard rumors that a door adjustment recall is coming out.

[Dutch Star Don]

"TwinDriver".....Rattles make me crazy, more than normal! I actually wrote a post on quieting the cab of the Dutch Star. Here's a couple of other free fixes. If you have a TV on a televator, the Corian cover just sits on top of the TV and is held on my it's weight and gravity. I found on rough roads, it would jump around and bang against the counter top.

I lifted the televator cover off and flipped it over. I used foam door tape and placed a bead all around the edge. That quieted up the televator.

The front shades are very heavy and I saw a lot of movement while driving. On those, I did two things. I used some of that white foam, that comes in sheets for packaging. I took a piece and force it in between the end of the shade and the window frame. It's not visible and keeps the shade from moving side to side. Lastly, when I'm driving on rough roads. I align both the front sun screen and the shade so they are equally deployed. This makes the rod in them butt up against each other and fit tighter in the track. Actually cuts down on a fair amount of noise.

Lastly, we use a silicone mat on the microwave turntable to keep it clean. Before we depart, I lift the turntable up, and place the mat under it, leaving the mat hang out more in the front so we see it. This cuts back on the occasional clunk of the turntable jumping round on a rough road.

[Winepress]

Have this continued annoying squeak. Tried all the remedies including plastic washer on the door post. Discovered the noise was coming from the step.

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by Winepress

Have this continued annoying squeak. Tried all the remedies including plastic washer on the door post. Discovered the noise was coming from the step.

Is your door still hard to close

[Winepress]

Originally Posted by Stuart W

Is your door still hard to close

It’s loosened up a lot, but still is not right. Our friends Mountain Aire closes just like a door at home. Obvious they spend more time on the MA door alignment.
I don’t know why Newmar just doesn’t call Newell and buy their air seal design.

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by Winepress

It’s loosened up a lot, but still is not right. Our friends Mountain Aire closes just like a door at home. Obvious they spend more time on the MA door alignment.
I don’t know why Newmar just doesn’t call Newell and buy their air seal design.

I have learned that the latch is adjustable, requires the removable of the interior wood trim around the door

[Smosher]

I have adjusted my latch. It isn’t hard other than taking off the wood trim. I took a small screw and screwed them into the wood plugs. Then on mine you have to take the grab rail off. The rest is simple I have posted on an older post pictures. You can adjust it one notch at a time probable just one sounds like it might work. After putting back on the trim I used furniture scratch remover wax. Hope this helps

[Smosher]

https://comnet2.newmarcorp.com/insta...013DRENTDR.pdf
This is where you can find the info on the adjustment. It is the move a bolt design the first few pages is what I was giving the instructions on mine.

[LeslieGary]

On door closure: I believe our door gets to the second closure with minimal effort. Said another way, it quickly goes past first closure right to second—and my assessment is that this is not a particularly tight closure. Of note, on the emergency door in the back, it also has two closure settings and the difference is obvious when closing—the second closure is much tighter.

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by LeslieGary

On door closure: I believe our door gets to the second closure with minimal effort. Said another way, it quickly goes past first closure right to second—and my assessment is that this is not a particularly tight closure. Of note, on the emergency door in the back, it also has two closure settings and the difference is obvious when closing—the second closure is much tighter.

What month was yours assembled?

[tom chelbana]

For over 8 plus years on our Essex I wrapped the center stud with aluminum tape 4 or 5 times a year to stop door rattle. Made at least 10 to 14 wraps around stud and when it stated making rattle, do it again. We do us our coaches about 200 days a year.
On the new London Aire found we needed it to needed the aluminium ducking tape for it to stop the rattle. Our bigger problem was when it a bigger bump in the road there was a very loud clank (metal on metal sound) which we found that the HWH 3 step had a gap between the bottom and top step when retracted, front door was in, and needed to put a 1/2 inch rubber spacer so when steps are closed there is no movement between steps outside. Also inside the steps needed a small rubber spacer to stop small inside step rattle. All quiet up front now.
Newmar Man

[Dutch Star Don]

Steve.....good info on using the screw to get the plugs out. On my 2014, the adjustment was probably always one click off of the perfect setting. The new coach will get adjusted this time, until it's right.