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Low Rider Levelegs on our BayStar
Old 07-13-2011, 07:34 PM   #1
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We've put 1500 miles on our brand new 2011 BayStar 2901 and everything has been great, except...

We have a broken rear passenger side Leveleg. It's quite obvious that the levelers are mounted much too low, allowing only about six inches of clearance from ground level. In the rear there is no room for the levelers to be placed any higher on the chassis. The front levelers can be rebolted approximately two inches higher. We have dragged the rear levelers a number of times pulling out of gas stations and parking lots and now we are extremely vigilant. Has anyone else come across this problem?

Otherwise, we're lovin' this coach!

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I did
Old 07-13-2011, 07:47 PM   #2
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I came across this problem. People sometimes come up to you and show the LOW legs!!! I bend once one rear leg, so - we needed to get one straight again in a shop. I try to angle any deep rude from a Mall Parking Lot or from the ferry. Slow speed is the secret

TW

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Old 07-13-2011, 08:38 PM   #3
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I also have this problem on my 3202. Try approaching the dip or depression at an extreme angle like 45 degrees. I can't even get into my own driveway. It is a design flaw. I've also found that the dinette cushions can't be pulled up without hitting the window valence. The lock arms on the slide outs are for the birds and I don't use them to avoid problems. But I also talk to owners of other units and count my blessings. There is a lot of junk in the TT and Toyhauler industry.
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Drives me nuts
Old 07-13-2011, 09:34 PM   #4
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Same here. I just hate the LOCKING arms. I get my arms still in and can move them up or down by hand. It works most of the times. After 4 years I got shown by the Dealer, how to use them. Crawling over the bed........ what a joke.
The cushions, like you said are for the birds too. Every time you brake, they fall over or down. And it is just the little stuff, that drives me nuts
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Old 07-14-2011, 05:23 AM   #5
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Welcome to the Newmar forum & irv2, FourbyFour.
Interesting sign in you have I carry a 2x4 in case I have a HWH jack that decides to quit moving.

Maybe Newmar needs a thread for engineers to see all the design flaws that Newmar owners are experiencing with their coach's or 5th Wheels.

Could maybe change the heading of this thread if its ok with OP?

Hope you can still enjoy your coach and experience many safe miles with your coach and welcome to Newmar family also.
I'll add this thread to it when I do.
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Old 07-14-2011, 05:56 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by "007" View Post
..............

Maybe Newmar needs a thread for engineers to see all the design flaws that Newmar owners are experiencing with their coach's or 5th Wheels.

Could maybe change the heading of this thread if its ok with OP?

Hope you can still enjoy your coach and experience many safe miles with your coach and welcome to Newmar family also.
I'll add this thread to it when I do.
I wrote Newmar an e-mail, after we got the BAY STAR. NEVER received a reply. We would have done a new Design for a $ 1.00 through our eng.-co..
Well - not everything can be perfect, even at NEWMAR.
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Old 07-14-2011, 07:32 AM   #7
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Great idea about thread for Newmar Engineers. What are they thinking? I have wondered about how low the level legs are, but so far have not damaged them. I've had dash a/c problems that I've written about here before. I don't lock slides - so far no problems. Seems difficult to lock and unlock bed room slides so I hope I don't have to do that. Their customer service email stinks. I have written to both Millers - so far no reply. From what I read on forums, quality control in the RV industry stinks and they ought to be ashamed.
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Old 07-14-2011, 09:51 AM   #8
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I have had several camping buddies point out that my "jacks are still down" when I go to move. They are hangers for sure....but so far, they are close enough to the wheels that I haven't dragged them. Had the AC-wet feet syndrome but "fixed" it with Padre44's (and others) advice and built a spoiler for the AC box vent out of coroplast...so far so good. The slide locks....well, I just don't use them.
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Old 07-14-2011, 08:41 PM   #9
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OK, how do I find out about Padre44's solution to the wet feet problem. I put a long extension on the drain hose and that works most of the time except when I am in Florida which is most of the time. Hi Humidity.
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Old 07-14-2011, 10:16 PM   #10
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OK, how do I find out about Padre44's solution to the wet feet problem. I put a long extension on the drain hose and that works most of the time except when I am in Florida which is most of the time. Hi Humidity.
Dash AC water leak

The AC box on my rig says right on it "for diesel pusher motorhomes". I just took a chunk of coroplast (corrugated plastic) and built a "spoiler" that hangs down a couple of inches below the lower edge of the AC box under the hood. Air is pushed into the vents on the front and pushes the condensation water into the coach before it has a chance to get down the drain.
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Old 07-15-2011, 06:49 AM   #11
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HMXDave did something similar to what I did, which was what someone else did that I read about somewhere on iRV2. It is based on what Evans Tempcon told me was the problem with ram air being forced into the unit because of the open grill design on a gasser. I used aluminum flashing because I could cut and bend it easily. The solution is to divert that rush of air some way. I bent mine down so the bottom air intakes were covered, but could still get air in and fastened the thing with industrial velcro since I didn't want to be screwing into the unit. If the units are for diesel pushers, then Newmar did all of us a disservice and should rectify the problem. Maybe a class action suit?
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Old 07-16-2011, 10:36 AM   #12
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I, too, have had folks point to low jacks - so far, have not damaged any because I noticfed that they are low, and I drive accordingly.

Got the dash air valve fixed - damaged vacuum line replaced. About the Heat Pump vibration. A local RV repair shop placed 2 inch foam gasket at rear of unit to better insulate. Result is great. Unit works good and is quiet. Very little vibration.

Suggestion to new buyers. Order with larger chassis. I weighed mine and with half tank of fuel and water, but holding empty, exceed the limit. I do not carry heavy tool boxes, just pot and pans and the usual other junk that we all accumulate but probably never use.

Question: Are all Ford V10's noisy? I have down sized from a diesel pusher and finding it difficult to get used to the high reving, gas engine under my feet. It has, however, slowed me down about 15 MPH, average, due to the fact that I just don't want to rev the engine so high to keep up speed on hills. I kick it out of cruise control. I do trail a 3700# car.

The livability of the 2901 is really good. Because I don't need extra sleeping, I am thinking about replacing the hide-a-bed with a couple of lazy-boys chairs that can be moved for better evening TV viewing.

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Old 07-16-2011, 04:10 PM   #13
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I've had 3 Ford V-10's. First two were in class C. They all are loud. Bay Star is quieter, but when it down shifts to low to go up a steep hill, it is something else. I was lucky to get the larger chassis - didn't know better but that's the way it came, and I'm glad.
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Old 07-19-2011, 07:35 PM   #14
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I'm heading back to flat Florida after a 6000 mile trip up through Yellowstone and the Tetons into Montana. Yes it is noisy at high rpm. I can tolerate 3500 but if you leave the cruise control on it can scare you by jumping up to 5000 while going up hill. I can listen to the radio at 2500 but not over 3500. I am towing a 3800 lbs chevy equinox and getting 7.5 mpg on flat land and in the mountains. No difference. While I would agree that out west a deasel pusher would have been great, I'll still take what I have and bank the difference. My milage is camparible and gass is cheaper and I don't need any special fluids. I got an oil change for $49 on the road at a Ford dealer. On balance you have a good chassis.

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