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Old 10-31-2018, 10:47 PM   #1
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My $16 Sanicon Fix

I removed everything including the 5" screw in cap and ring (6 screws). I cut the top of the bracket to get it off the pump. I don't think it was needed but bought a 3" shielded coupling ($9, pic #1) and sliced it in half. Using the half with the inside lip put it over the outlet (pic #2). Marked and cut holes for the 4 plastic nubs that stick out. My reason was to keep the plastic pump from touching the plastic outlet (the inside lip is now on the outside of the outlet)and lessen the 4 plastic nubs from pushing on the next 3" coupling ($7,pic#3). I used soapy water and a lot of pushing to get the 3" coupling over the outlet with nubs and other coupling. Used both rubber bands on the intake of the pump because it goes inside the outlet (vibration,pic#4). Push the pump in and tighten the 2 clamps. I cut the mounting bracket and used half to mount the pump (pic #5). Drilled a 5/16" hole on bottom of bracket and 1/4" hole thru the wet bay floor, 1/4 x 20 x 2.5" bolted thru the floor with a washer and wing nut to hold the pump down. I removed the 4 screws from underneath, put a bead of silicone on the 5" screw in cap mounting ring and screwed it underneath with the 6 removed screws. The bottom of the pump is in the 5" hole lowering the pump below the outlet. The access hole is still usable for the sanicon hose if you take the end off and then put it back on. I never use the hole, just dump and return hose. No more standing water. No more 3' hose to smell. It worked perfect and a lot more room in the wat bay. You can see in the pic with the hose going thru the 5" hole I had to cut 3/4" off the black tank handle.
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Old 10-31-2018, 11:55 PM   #2
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
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I like what you did and got me thinking. The SaniCon model that Newmar is using, looks like the Turbo 600, with the 3" flexible hose and bayonet connection. The Turbo 400 has a direct connect bayonet fitting and the Turbo 500 uses a rubber hose just like you constructed, for direct connection. I haven't had the chance to see the new SaniCon model up close. Does it look like the nose piece, where the 3" hose connects, could be converted to the other style, remove and add bayonet, like the Turbo 400 or rubber hose that comes on the Turbo 500.
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Old 11-01-2018, 12:15 AM   #3
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Mine is the turbo 500 that came installed. I questioned the mfg because it looks like the 600 on their web site but they said it's a 500. The nose piece looks like it's glued to the front half of the pump.
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Old 11-01-2018, 04:22 PM   #4
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I think your project has possibly sent the installation issue in a whole new direction, for the better.
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Old 11-01-2018, 06:04 PM   #5
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The fitting that is installed at the end of the pipe is an addon on piece that is glued.

It is Valterra #T1029-2
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If you cut with a dremel tool in a straight line front to back, you can remove this from the exit pipe, which is Valterra T81

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By taking the Sanicon 500s or 600s and connecting to the T81 directly, removing the T1029-2, you gain a few inches, and don't have to overcome the bayonet fittings.
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Old 11-01-2018, 10:26 PM   #6
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I have to apologize, all this talk has led us back to what "10 fan" did, which is attached directly. I think discussing it in two places caused the confusion for me. "10 fan" looks like the fix.
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Old 11-01-2018, 11:42 PM   #7
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My new hose came in today and I reluctantly removed my old sanicon hose. I got a teaspoon of liquid. It worked, it does not hold liquid like before. I do miss the clear fitting that told me the tank was flushed (and told me I had standing liquid). It works just as good as it did before but removes all of the liquid. Well worth the couple hours I spent.
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Old 11-05-2018, 03:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10 fan View Post
My new hose came in today and I reluctantly removed my old sanicon hose. I got a teaspoon of liquid. It worked, it does not hold liquid like before. I do miss the clear fitting that told me the tank was flushed (and told me I had standing liquid). It works just as good as it did before but removes all of the liquid. Well worth the couple hours I spent.


I really like this, was their any way to keep the lock tabs and add the female side to the pump so you could switch back and forth between slinky and Sanicon ?
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Old 11-05-2018, 05:51 PM   #9
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"Stuart W"....That is certainly what I would like to do, so you can just twist the pump off and go back to a 3" hose in an emergency. The only issue is the space between outlet and bay door. Looks like I'll get to play with it this week!!!!!
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Old 11-05-2018, 06:02 PM   #10
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One thought on this:

The input of the 600S has a smaller diameter than a standard 3" sewer hose. It is designed to have a 3" sewer hose connected to it, and then clamped down.

If you take a good quality compartment hose and cut it so that the existing bayonet connector is as close as possible, and clamp the left over hose, you can easily convert the 600s into a 400s. This would be better than the standard 400s, because you would gain a rotatable bayonet connector, something that is lacking on the 400s.

This would require some test fitting, but if that works, you would have the best of both worlds.

This hose:
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has a very narrow bayonet connector, and is a very strong hose.
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Old 11-05-2018, 09:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart W View Post
I really like this, was their any way to keep the lock tabs and add the female side to the pump so you could switch back and forth between slinky and Sanicon ?
I didn't remove the lock tabs, just pushed the rubber connector over them. I can loosen one hose clamp and pull the pump off. Then connect a 3" slinky. I wouldn't want to switch back and forth every day, but it would take longer to get a screw driver than to switch. I will be at my daughters in Simi Valley in a couple weeks if you want to take a look at it.
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Old 11-05-2018, 10:57 PM   #12
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"10 fan".....Maybe we'll get a chance to meet up. I'm in Moorpark, the adjacent city.
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Old 11-06-2018, 02:13 AM   #13
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My $16 Sanicon Fix

Quote:
Originally Posted by redbaron73 View Post
One thought on this:



The input of the 600S has a smaller diameter than a standard 3" sewer hose. It is designed to have a 3" sewer hose connected to it, and then clamped down.



If you take a good quality compartment hose and cut it so that the existing bayonet connector is as close as possible, and clamp the left over hose, you can easily convert the 600s into a 400s. This would be better than the standard 400s, because you would gain a rotatable bayonet connector, something that is lacking on the 400s.



This would require some test fitting, but if that works, you would have the best of both worlds.



This hose:

Attachment 225107

has a very narrow bayonet connector, and is a very strong hose.


Wouldn’t this put the pump to the side by the time you reduced it?
Ok read it again, do you think you could cut that expandable hose and clamp it to the pump?, seems thin and lacking flat surface area, it would be cool if some one made an ABS fitting with a bayonet that would glue to the pump.
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Old 11-06-2018, 06:35 AM   #14
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The factory install and my current install is doing the same.thing with a thick hose material. That is why I chose the valtera dominator, it is very strong.

Testing with grey water is recommended if someone beats me to this test.
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