Community Forums

plane · 08-16-2018, 11:59 AM

I just got the phone with Newmar and was told that the fix for the Interactive cruise is now available and can now be installed by your friendly Freightliner shop. Newmar had one overnighted and they installed one this week, and it appears to work.

WardSimmons · 08-17-2018, 02:24 AM

Thanks Plane-

Could you restate the problem that is being fixed? There has been much discussion of the cruise control. I have an appointment in a Gaffney in two weeks, and I want to make sure I can tell them what I’m asking for.

plane · 08-17-2018, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WardSimmons

Thanks Plane-

Could you restate the problem that is being fixed? There has been much discussion of the cruise control. I have an appointment in a Gaffney in two weeks, and I want to make sure I can tell them what I’m asking for.

Glad to Ward, On my new Aire it started some time ago when my Interactive cruise started to come and go while driving. When it would go off and provide an error message it could not be reset. It would normally be ok after the coach was turn off and set for a few minutes or over night. Mine was a bit complicated because I had a problem with my dash not functioning properly because of a faulty left rear wheel speed sensor and loose the ability to use cruise altogether. Bottom line they had to reengineer the eye for the front of the coach and that is the fix. If you are going Freightliner be sure they replace the eye. Also if you have not done so have them do the perform the service solution designed to fix the key fob issue.

I hope you enjoy the coach as much as we do

WardSimmons · 08-18-2018, 02:48 AM

Thanks Jim. Yes, we love our New Aire, warts and all. There’s still not a coach out there we’d rather have.

plane · 08-23-2018, 12:21 PM

Just returned from having the interactive cruise fixed on my New Aire. The fix is intended to fix the interactive cruise from disengaging and not resetting or resetting after a stop. The fix was merely replacing the radar on the front cap and then driving with the techs laptop program that aligns the radar. replacement and realignment took about 1.5 hours from when I arrived until I left. Freightliner must be rebuilding the radar units as they were pressuring Freightliner to replace and return the old radar unit as soon as possible.

turbopilot · 08-23-2018, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plane

Just returned from having the interactive cruise fixed on my New Aire. The fix is intended to fix the interactive cruise from disengaging and not resetting or resetting after a stop. The fix was merely replacing the radar on the front cap and then driving with the techs laptop program that aligns the radar. replacement and realignment took about 1.5 hours from when I arrived until I left. Freightliner must be rebuilding the radar units as they were pressuring Freightliner to replace and return the old radar unit as soon as possible.

Having someone properly align the antenna is very important. Sounds like they did it the right way.

My antenna seems to be aligned perfectly so hate to do a change it just for a system crash every 3,000 miles. My system will detect traffic beginning at 600' down the road under perfect conditions. After 10,000 miles it has me very well trained to avoid spurious alerts.

90% of the "false" alerts happen when passing. After a while it dawned on me that I was getting the alert because I normally speed up in lane then pull to the left lane to pass. That triggers a closing alert. So with OnGuard you pull to the left lane then start to accelerate. All makes good sense since you really should not close the distance ahead to pass just in case traffic ahead decides to make a sudden stop. As I said in a previous post OnGuard is really training me to be a better driver just to make those darn alerts go away.

plane · 08-23-2018, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbopilot

Having someone properly align the antenna is very important. Sounds like they did it the right way.

My antenna seems to be aligned perfectly so hate to do a change it just for a system crash every 3,000 miles. My system will detect traffic beginning at 600' down the road under perfect conditions. After 10,000 miles it has me very well trained to avoid spurious alerts.

90% of the "false" alerts happen when passing. After a while it dawned on me that I was getting the alert because I normally speed up in lane then pull to the left lane to pass. That triggers a closing alert. So with OnGuard you pull to the left lane then start to accelerate. All makes good sense since you really should not close the distance ahead to pass just in case traffic ahead decides to make a sudden stop. As I said in a previous post OnGuard is really training me to be a better driver just to make those darn alerts go away.

The alignment is all computer and very little the tech can do to make a difference. I did some testing of my own on the way home with city driving both 2 and 4 lane and it is appears to behave as good as it did originally. Time will tell.

I am beginning to feel like I am gaining with only one item, the sanicon left to deal with, Newmar said they are almost finished with the retrofit maybe next week. The only time I intend to use it is when It is at the house as it will be very easy to dump into my house clean-out when I get my RV garage redone so I can keep it at home

Keep us informed on the air system I am vary interested as to any differences it may make, I assume the 9 grand or so is still valid.

LabRat · 08-23-2018, 02:53 PM

Plane - I must have missed it - what's up with your Sanicon? I know Cinergi's hose sprung a leak, but what happened to yours?

turbopilot · 08-23-2018, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plane

Keep us informed on the air system I am vary interested as to any differences it may make, I assume the 9 grand or so is still valid.

Going to Iowa may be a show stopper. I was just there a few weeks ago.

plane · 08-23-2018, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LabRat

Plane - I must have missed it - what's up with your Sanicon? I know Cinergi's hose sprung a leak, but what happened to yours?

Newmar mounted the unit on all NA's and DS's (not sure what years other than 2018) and maybe others with the outlet on the top of the pump instead of the bottom which will cause problems with emptying your tanks completely and leaving waste setting in your pump, plus winterizing will be very difficult. They have been "working" on a fix set several months and now and they are close to having a fix. I have yet to use mine until I get the fix.

LabRat · 08-23-2018, 03:25 PM

Thanks. Will keep an eye out for this. Hopefully they come up with a fix before most of us need to winterize our coaches. I only used ours once, but will stop now until it's fixed.

turbopilot · 08-23-2018, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LabRat

Thanks. Will keep an eye out for this. Hopefully they come up with a fix before most of us need to winterize our coaches. I only used ours once, but will stop now until it's fixed.

I have been following the Sanicon posts. I have only used the Sanicon since delivery. Never emptied the tanks with the big hose. So far I am having no problems at all. Hose is not stinky. This is the second Sanicon system I have had. Previous coach had at the non Turbo version. Worked the same way just slower.

In any event you always have to go through a Sanicon hose purging routine after a dump. Standard practice. With the cap off the hose you need to pull the hose to the full length (meaning stretch it as far as you can) put the end back into the dump hole. Then go back to the beginning of the hose at the Sanicon, lift it up and progressively move toward dump drain with the highest point of the hose in your hand until you reach the drain. When complete the hose will have all the liquid out.

If all you do is take the hose out partially to the dump drain then run the Sanicon and put the hose away there will be a lot of retained waste water in the hose. Another way you can tell if the hose is purged is if it feels heavy. The way the hose is designed with the coils if you don't stretch and purge after a dump, then you will have a stinky hose.

LabRat · 08-23-2018, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbopilot

In any event you always have to go through a Sanicon hose purging routine after a dump. Standard practice. With the cap off the hose you need to pull the hose to the full length (meaning stretch it as far as you can) put the end back into the dump hole. Then go back to the beginning of the hose at the Sanicon, lift it up and progressively move toward dump drain with the highest point of the hose in your hand until you reach the drain. When complete the hose will have all the liquid out.

I figured that was standard practice with any hose you use - drain it fully before putting it away. Maybe I don't have to worry that much since it's what I did when I used it.

turbopilot · 08-23-2018, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LabRat

I figured that was standard practice with any hose you use - drain it fully before putting it away. Maybe I don't have to worry that much since it's what I did when I used it.

I can confirm, based on experience with Sanicon over two RV's, if you put that hose away without a good purge, it will be stinky the next time you open the basement door.