Community Forums

bairdofl · 04-04-2010, 04:13 PM

We just bought a 2004 KS 3904 with 3 slides; and are (1) so excited we can't sleep; and (2) so overwhelmed by what we perceive as the enormity of what we have just done. Our previous RV experience amounts to 4 years and about 40k miles between FL and the intermountain states in a 17 foot Casita - an absolutely wonderful little trailer which we have outgrown in need for something in which to spend months at a time.

Altho we studied hard and are convinced that we bought a great coach, what we don't know about all of the new systems and the basic unit are a little scary. So I have been digging into the manuals - and turning over some apparent rocks in what we thought we knew (mostly what we were told). So I would appreciate some help answering some questions which I have.

First, since the coach is on a Freightliner chassis, I assume that the Freightliner guide is correct in its assertion that the two gauges - one over the other on the left side of the instrument panel indicate air pressure build-up for the pneumatic brakes. That is, that there is a split brake system to avoid catastrophic brake loss. I raise the point because the sellers of the unit - who had put about 40k miles on it - informed me early on that the pressure gauges indicated pressure being built up in the air bags. I was informed that I should always allow the pressure to approximate 120 lbs before starting out; and most especially before storing the hydraulic lifts.
My further question, beyond the essential function of the gauges, is (if brakes rather than air bags) how do I know when the air bags are full; or do the gauges serve a dual purpose?

Second question. In this model, when you pop the engine cover at the rear, what is most apparent is that the view of the engine is totally blocked by the radiator. That's all well and good - but what if there were an engine fire? Let'er burn? That would not be what I have in mind. Are there any fire extinguisher systems such as those put on boats to handle such an eventuality?

Third, how does one purge water from the brake air reservoir tanks? Indeed, where are they?

I could go on . . .

My thanks to all who might offer some help.

Jim Baird
Orlando

PNWGirl · 04-04-2010, 04:18 PM

Hi Jim,

Can't help you with your questions, as I have a TT, but just wanted to say 'hi' and WELCOME!! Hope that you enjoy it here.

LOT's of people with decades of experience that they love to give. Never, ever, will you be made to feel silly for asking any question (I speak from experience), so please do not hesitate.

Hope that you enjoy your new baby as much as your old TT!

Sheila

Superslif · 04-04-2010, 04:27 PM

A warm welcome to the IRV2 Family. You have come to the right place....Just like PNW... I'm a trailer owner...With your ?'s I'm sure someone will chime in on the thread to help you out as far as systems on a pusher. Does the coach seem to be well taken care of?

Latitude · 04-04-2010, 05:30 PM

Hi Jim

Welcome aboard the Good Ship 'iRV2'

SThe Air Pressure gauges are Primary and secondary systems not Brakes or air Bags

The gauges will indicate air pressure available for Brakes and Air Bags

There is likely a Air dryer that will purge or Blow Off when air reaches max pressure about 120psi.

There should also be lanyards attached to the tanks to manually bleed any water/codensation in tanks.
The tanks are mounted on the frame You will need to get under her and do some crawling around You will find "LOTS" of interesting "Stuff"

The Rear Rad set up does block access from the rear Just keep it washed out of any dirt and you will be Good to GO

As for Fire Call 911

Main Thing Have FUN

Rick

Luv2go · 04-04-2010, 05:45 PM

Jim, Welcome to iRV2.com!

There are some fire suppression systems available for engine compartment use. Mac the Fire guy is a good source of information:
Fire and Life Safety

He presents at many rallies (we saw him at the 2009 iRV2.com National Rally) and really explains the various fire suppression products well, both in person and on his webpage.

He did have this question during his presentation and he basically said if you do want to fight it (and he had many examples and situations where he said not to fight it) you point the fire extinguisher right at the radiator, a significant portion of the firefighting chemical will make it through the radiator(s).

Stewart

GaryKD · 04-04-2010, 06:38 PM

Hi Jim,
Welcome to iRV2.

Assuming your 04 and my 05 are identical, the air tank lanyards should be behind the front side of the right front tire. The easiest way to see them (3) is to turn the front wheels hard right. I live south of you and drain my tanks once a year. I replace the air dryer canister once every two years. To clean the radiator, use compressed air, not water or anything wet. Wet just turns the dirt into mud. Like Latitude posted, I start the engine and then store the jacks. As the jacks are raising and the air system is coming up to pressure I do my final walk around. During this time the air dryer will blow off excess pressure. This tells me the air system is at the correct PSI. When I get back to the driver's seat the jack warning buzzer has stopped and the coach is at ride height, gauges read correctly. Now it is time to move out.

siggyd · 04-04-2010, 08:00 PM

Hi Jim and Gary,
On my 05 KSDP the lanyards are behind my LEFT front tire.
Happy RVing,
Siggy D.

bairdofl · 04-05-2010, 08:45 AM

Thanks to everyone for setting me straight on some of this. What a great resource of knowledge. Where is the air canister located?

Gary's sign off also reminds me to ask about dinghy towing. I have a 2000 Escalade 4WD. Probably not the ideal dinghy - it weighs about 6300 pounds. You'll appreciate that after purchase of the coach ($$$) its strongest feature is that I own it outright. Anyway, the KSDP came with a Blue Ox Class 4 hitch. What is the group's opinion about pulling it w/o a brake assistance device? The sellers said that they had a Buddy and found it to be a PITA - so got rid of it.

Thanks.

Jim

bairdofl · 04-05-2010, 08:56 AM

I missed answering Superslif's question about the condition of our 2004 KSDP. The answer is that it is amazingly well cared for. In fact, it's not at all apparent that it has seen usage - although there are 41k miles on the odometer. The only ding is at the top of the rear ladder where someone bumped something immoveable. No real harm done. I just hope that the systems were as well maintained. I have service records and the CAT and Onan have been regularly serviced - but as we all know, there is a lot of other routine maintenance to be done - and the male half of the selling team was admittedly a clutz in terms of all things mechanical.

Jim

FlyingDiver · 04-05-2010, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bairdofl

Gary's sign off also reminds me to ask about dinghy towing. I have a 2000 Escalade 4WD. Probably not the ideal dinghy - it weighs about 6300 pounds. You'll appreciate that after purchase of the coach ($$$) its strongest feature is that I own it outright. Anyway, the KSDP came with a Blue Ox Class 4 hitch. What is the group's opinion about pulling it w/o a brake assistance device? The sellers said that they had a Buddy and found it to be a PITA - so got rid of it.

I would never tow without a supplementary brake system. Especially something that heavy. The hitch is rated for the weight, but that's got nothing to do with braking. I don't know the numbers for your coach, but I expect that with the weight of the Escalade, you're over the GVWR of the coach, so you're already past the rated weight for the brakes. Not sure if you're over the GCWR or not.

The GCWR is the max combined weight including the tow. The GVWR is the max to stop, and you need to include anything you're towing that doesn't have it's own brakes.

There are alternatives to Brake Buddys. Lots of them discussed here on IRV2. Search the towing forum.

joe

bairdofl · 04-05-2010, 10:35 AM

My thanks to FlyingDiver. Stats on our coach:
UVW 24,000
GVWR 29,500
GCWR 39,000
NCC 3,000

So you are quite right. Towing the Escalade would put me about a thousand pounds over. Point taken. I guess a supplementary brake system is called for. Certainly cheaper than a new car. Or will the fix just yield marginal improvement?

I am starting to really feel in debt to you guys!

Jim

FlyingDiver · 04-05-2010, 10:44 AM

Probably way more than 1000 lb. Your UVW is 24000, but I bet you're closer to 28000 loaded to travel. You really need to load up the coach, including all passengers, fuel, baggage, water, etc, etc, and then get it weighed. Heck, you might be at or over your GVWR at that point.

We use an SMI Air Force One, which I think is the easiest system to use if you have air brakes. The in-car components are well hidden and permanent (nothing to set up when you go to tow). You hook up an air line and the break-away cable and you're set.

joe

keninvic · 04-08-2010, 11:10 PM

Jim, I had to take a 3 day course just to be certified to drive a vehicle with air brakes; there was a lot of information - here in BC, if you are driving a vehicle with air brakes and are not certified to do so, you can expect to pay a big fine if pulled over. Your motorhome has a primary and secondary air system and has auto adjusting air brakes - the auto adjusters should be checked on a regular basis. The parking brake is nothing like a car - the release of air in the parking brake chamber allows the spring in the parking brake to activate the brake cam. It sounds like you dont need any training to operate an air brake equipped vehicle in the USA, now that I realize how little I knew I would recommend you read up on it.