Community Forums

AITG · 02-04-2017, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BPoland

I have but one word to say about what Midway did. N I C E !!!!!

As soon as I get her out of hibernation I will be looking at what it will take to pull this one off. I really like that. Where is the jealous button when you need it. Midway is a little too far away from me. Can you give us a ballpark as to how much it cost to have it done (how many hours of labor)?

One question for you. I take it, the seal doesn't press hard enough against the side of the coach, to cause it to pop out when the slide is deployed? I wouldn't think there would be. Did I say I really like what they did?

Here's the most interesting part: Midway did it before we took delivery at no charge. So far dealing with them has been a great experience.

Russtj60 · 02-04-2017, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stuart W

Looks great the only problem some of us have is the decorative trim with the light in it. If a keg were made I would add a thinner version of the molding that could be install while the slide is in ... or what if the molding was two piece with the larger side permanently attached to the the wall and a small piece to the slide?

For me Stuart, the problem seems to be the metal frame on the slide that seals against the wall when the slide is in.. I can the seat inside the trim...

AITG · 02-04-2017, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AITG

Here's the most interesting part: Midway did it before we took delivery at no charge. So far dealing with them has been a great experience.

AFA sealing goes the board gets installed after the slide is extended. There is no pressure on the exterior wall. There is a piece of soft foam on the back side of the board which seems to be just for anti-rattle stability.

Stuart W · 02-04-2017, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russtj60

For me Stuart, the problem seems to be the metal frame on the slide that seals against the wall when the slide is in.. I can the seat inside the trim...

Agreed I would not remove that but perhaps it could be smaller and still seal

Stuart W · 02-04-2017, 08:58 AM

Stuart W · 02-04-2017, 09:07 AM

Or with the lighted molding how about this? Make a smaller light up panel that is full length but skinnier that permanently mounts to the wall and then a thinner piece that has no light mounts to the slide.

BPoland · 02-05-2017, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AITG

Photos: First one shows the board removed for travel. There is a long piece of nylon split loom over the sharp edge of the aluminum. Photo 2 shows how much seat travel is added. Photo 3 is a little hard to see (black on black) but it shows the drawer clips screwed to the back of the trim board. The last one is looking at the back of the trim board showing the lock assembly.

My wife asked for the improvement - I was just going to live with it - and our salesman said they had done it once before. Good job Midway!

I looked at the slide in or 2014 Bay Star. It looks like there is the wood trim piece, and then under that is particle board. The particle board is a continuous piece from the bottom of the slide all the way up to and under the top piece of moulding. If I pull the vertical fascia off, I still have the particle board to deal with. To get down to the piece where your latches are installed.

Gonna have to call Newmar to see if I can remove the Sienna Maple vertical piece as well as the majority of the particle board and not have a detramental effect to the stability of the slide out. If I can, then I will make the moulding and the particle board a one piece assembly, and then install the latches.

jrbarber · 02-05-2017, 04:50 PM

Bill,
It sounds like you discovered exactly the same thing I did last night with the vertical, particle board overlapping the horizontal trim fascia. Back to the drawing board.

AITG · 02-05-2017, 08:51 PM

OK... I wasn't able to see how it was done but there is a little saw mark on the bottom of these horizontal fascia board. It's hidden when everything is put together. Does that help?

BPoland · 02-06-2017, 07:08 AM

Please excuse the very rough drawing. What I'm thinking of doing is this:
1). Remove the front fascia, leaving the particle board in place.
2). Mark locations for the drawer clips on the back of the particle board.
3). Cut the particle board about 3" down from the top molding and remove.
4). Re-attach front fascia to particle board using the alignment marks as a reference.
5). Install drawer clips.

Hopefully, it will go back together properly.

Canuck53 · 02-06-2017, 08:06 AM

Ok why is Newmar not changing the design or have they?

BPoland · 02-06-2017, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canuck53

Ok why is Newmar not changing the design or have they?

Because they want to maximize the available space in the coach, and since most people aren't over 6', most have the room they want. I'm 6'4" and can use all the legroom I can get. It is also easier on my back if I can recline the seat a little off a vertical position. Getting old is a B**** , but it still beats the alternative.

AITG · 02-06-2017, 03:01 PM

I went back to my 2702 today. Midway definitely cut the particle board where the seam is between the header trim and the (now) removable vertical trim piece. The particle board then stays attached to the trim.

AITG · 02-06-2017, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AITG

I went back to my 2702 today. Midway definitely cut the particle board where the seam is between the header trim and the (now) removable vertical trim piece. The particle board then stays attached to the trim.

Also, there is a piece of 90 degree angle that is on the left side of the removable board. It lines everything up when snapping the board in place.