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Old 06-04-2013, 08:23 AM   #1
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Newmar Dash Air for 2013+ And Older Coach's

I am starting a new thread based on a recent problem I have had, and a discovery that this affects at least one other coach, and my guess is there are more.

After picking up my coach at the factory in March, I drove 2,000 miles in cold weather. I could never get the heater to 'calm' down, and often opened a window. This was inspite of have max air set to cold. When I got to the warm Texas weather, I realized this was a big problem. I took the coach to my dealer complaining that I couldn't turn off the heater, and they replaced the evans valve at that time. They also discovered that I had 0 lbs in my AC, and sent me to Freightliner. FL charged the AC to 6lbs, which I found out was too much.

Newmar sent me to another Evans certified dealer to have the unit looked at, and they determined that I needed 4.5lbs of R-134a. The dealer claimed that the ac was blowing 40F air, and was fixed.

When I drove it home, the air started getting warm again. Finally I got a thermometer to test it, and discovered that as my water temp rose, so did the ac. Back to the valve.

There has been discussion on bad valves that Evans shipped around 2002-2004 (not sure on exact years), and 007 has information on that in this link.

The problem that I am experiencing is different, and I have found at least 1 other coach that has the problem.


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This is the evans valve that turns off the hot water supply from the engine. It is a one-way valve, meaning if it is installed reverse, it will fail. The plug end of the valve, on the left side, is the inlet (supply) side. It is oriented properly, but on mine it is installed on the RETURN line, and not the supply line.

This means that I have two problems. #1, hot water stays in the Evans unit, causing my AC to produce warm air all the time, and second, the valve is now receiving pressure on the wrong side, which will destroy the valve.

The new valve is now starting to fail again. Once it fails, it will allow the hot water to continuously circulate, and I am back to the original problem.

This was an installation error at the factory. The fix is to relocate the valve to the supply hose (shown above the valve), and replace the hose that is now too short. Since I am under warranty and this is clearly a factory error, that is what I am going to insist is done.

If I was not under warranty, as is the situation with the other coach I have seen this on, then the fix would be exactly what 007 did in the above post, but first relocating the evans unit to the correct supply line.

I am also attaching the evans troubleshooting guide evtg.pdf, which discusses all the troubleshooting procedures.

I have sent all of this information to Newmar, because 3 attempts with dealers to fix the Dash Air have failed, and this forum was the only way I was able to finally figure out the issue. This included my most recent trip to a Evans Certified Service Center.

Hopefully this will help someone else in the future. If you have a 2013 coach, you should check this out while still under warranty. Your engine has to be at running temp in order to do a proper diagnosis.
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:42 AM   #2
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Thanks for posting things like this!
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Old 06-04-2013, 03:01 PM   #3
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EVAN's INSTALLATION INFORMATION

You mentioned reverse flow thru Evans valve of hot water from engine. Why don't they place the Evans valve on the inward side of engine flow and see if it will hold up longer.
When I put in ball valve its in the bottom hose of Evans unit the Evans control valve was on the top hose of the Evans unit, I never bothered to check flow out of engine I just wanted to stop the flow of hot water and AC was able to blow out the cool air to our satisfaction.

In fact I just went outside and checked what I just said
my ball valve is on bottom exit of Evans unit and the Evan control valve is into the top fitting of Evans unit.
Looking at your picture it looks like the Evans control is on the bottom hose where my ball valve is.
You need to check the two fittings into the Evans unit and see whats up.
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Old 06-04-2013, 03:48 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by "007" View Post
You mentioned reverse flow thru Evans valve of hot water from engine. Why don't they place the Evans valve on the inward side of engine flow and see if it will hold up longer.
When I put in ball valve its in the bottom hose of Evans unit the Evans control valve was on the top hose of the Evans unit, I never bothered to check flow out of engine I just wanted to stop the flow of hot water and AC was able to out the cool air to our satisfaction.

In fact I just went outside and checked what I just said
my ball valve is on bottom exit of Evans unit and the Evan control valve is into the top fitting of Evans unit.
Looking at your picture it looks like the Evans control is on the bottom hose where my ball valve is.
You need to check the two fittings into the Evans unit and see whats up.
Just got off the phone with Newmar Customer Service rep Chad. He spoke with Evans, and they all agree that I have properly diagnosed the problem. It should be on the other hose.

I have an appointment next Thursday (soonest avail) to get this fixed.
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:01 PM   #5
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Am I correct in what I said, would just like to know.
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:17 PM   #6
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[QUOTE="007";1592716]Am I correct in what I said, would just like to know.[/QUOTE]

My top hose, above the evans control valve is the supply line. It goes to the bottom of the evans unit.

In this [URL="http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/our-2013-dutch-star-136924-36.html#post1591701"]post[/URL] PDR John indicates that his valve is on the line going into the bottom of the evans unit. So it would appear that the only thing done wrong on mine is where the evans valve was installed.

Does that answer your question?
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:35 PM   #7
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The Evans control belongs in the top hose feeding into AC/Heater unit like where mine is in ball valve picture is what I get from your explanation, thank you.
I hope this Evans control, which was new design, works for you and everyone else but if not you have the cheap fix,
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:29 PM   #8
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Thanks for posting up your findings. I'm going to look at mine more closely this weekend.
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:18 PM   #9
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I don't think that my emails gave a very clear description of the problem, at least from the way I read 007's response. So maybe a picture will explain it better.

Click image for larger version

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My coach was factory installed with the Incorrect procedure. The 2013 DSDP has a combo core. Whether the top or bottom is connected for the heater doesn't really matter, as it is just a flow. What does matter is that the Evans control valve is installed on the supply line, coming from the engine. The valve is a one way valve by design, and will fail if installed backwards.

Here is a picture of the combo core:
Click image for larger version

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Old 06-04-2013, 08:25 PM   #10
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One of the issues that I have had to deal with at the dealership is who is responsible for what component. Even getting this valve relocated has been difficult, and required Newmar to assist. I found a schematic at Evans that clearly shows what components are chassis vs OEM installation.

http://www.evanstempcon.com/warrantySchematics.pdf

Another issue that I have had is determining proper fill of the R134a. I found this guide here.

On the 2013 DSDP the charge should be 4.0lbs. What is amazing is that I have had this unit to 3 dealerships, and every single one of them got this wrong. Even the Evans certified shop put it at 4.5lbs.

I don't know if 0.5 lbs makes a big difference, but I did see some freezing on the lines with a 5 minute test run. I am thinking that is a bad sign?
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:12 AM   #11
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MOD Please Edit Prior Post

I just recieved the second email from Newmar today. There appears to be very great confusion on the location of the condensor. Customer Service contacted the production mechanic and got the final answer. The condensor is located in the rear, and the unit takes 4.5lbs.

That is the final answer (for now)



MODS: Please remove my prior post so that there is not mis-information.
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Old 06-05-2013, 03:45 PM   #12
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I wonder on all the Evans control installations I have seen, gas chassis & some DP's the control is on the top, but if the top on the older condensers is the outward flow also than they are all wrong also, thus the failure of the Evans control and thus the ball valve.
People have changed the Evans valve but only to have it fail again in same position. Maybe next time some one changes theirs might suggest the other hose location whats to lose we still have the ball valve.
Stick with your progress, I am just thinking out loud.
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Old 06-05-2013, 03:57 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by "007" View Post
I wonder on all the Evans control installations I have seen, gas chassis & some DP's the control is on the top, but if the top on the older condensers is the outward flow also than they are all wrong also, thus the failure of the Evans control and thus the ball valve.
People have changed the Evans valve but only to have it fail again in same position. Maybe next time some one changes theirs might suggest the other hose location whats to lose we still have the ball valve.
Stick with your progress, I am just thinking out loud.
I don't think the flow is dictated nor does it matter as far as the evans heater core is concerned. as long as water flows thru it, that is all that matters. One of the hoses is supply, and the other return. What does matter is the location of the evans valve. It must be on the supply line. Mine is clearly on the return line.

I do not know for certain that flow in the core is insignificant, but I can't imagine a reason why it would make a difference.
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Old 06-05-2013, 04:02 PM   #14
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As you said its the location and direction of flow through the Evans control.
The water has to flow through it.

This is a caution put out by Evan's for installation of control valve.
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