Newmar Electric Slide Outs, DAMN, Here We Go Again!

[sdagro]

One last part to my RANT. I think Newmar has the capability to make a superior product but they need 1) Better quality control. 2)More accountability from their suppliers and 3) More R&D. Most of these recalls should not be happening and 3 issues that we had early on have now been put on the recall list. GEAUX FIGURE!! An old friend once told me "YA CAIN'T MAKE CHICKEN SALAD OUTTA CHICKEN [moderator edit]!"

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by "007"

A couple of other things, older slides you could push the button and slide would continue after you removed your finger, was not necessary to hold button, and when the slide reached its limit either way, in or out, the controller would shut off motor from operating..
Now a days you have to hold button down and I have no idea what the controller will do and you now have the C-Storm controller.
The motor torque is ripping your gear housing apart, never had motor & gear housing moving either, they were permanently mounted.
At this point I think Newmar is going to have a large recall when they figure what is going on.
Like I said the gear housing was different in time period I mentioned never had a split housing or loose bolts where you have had to wire bolts to keep in place.
You will have to work with Newmar because this problem is not going to be fixed with the combination of gear box they use now and motor.
The motor maybe fine with painted bolts but gear box is not.

I am inclined to agree. I have the older Intelletec controllers that use push-and-release switches. The flat-floor slide (driver side) current limiter is set to just run the slide up the ramp without stopping ... just enough to not stall on the ramp.

[resullivan]

A little bit different problem. BR slide motor not shutting off at travel limit until you release the switch. C-storm, the maker of the controller says the controller should stop running when the stop is reached and 3 1/2 times the running amperage is reached. These numbers can be read in the little LED window on the controller while it is being operated.

[mark.jane]

Originally Posted by Algoma

There is no torque setting. The controller is supposed to detect the stall current when the slide stops moving and turn the motor off. One of my slides is no longer doing that so I watch the slide moving and immediately release the switch when the slides stops. On the list for Newmar to fix in September.

I was told by the guys at Pro Custom in Elkhart that the controller boards age out of calibration and have to be replaced after 10 years or so. My Intellitec controller for my front drivers-side slide had this problem, allowing the slide lock motor to continue operating until the slide lock mount snapped off; the controller wasn’t sensing the current properly and turning off the motor. In addition to repairing the slide lock mount ($561 plus labor), they installed a new controller board. I’m wondering if there are two things as work here: 1) A poor mechanical design (mounts, aluminum gear casing), and; 2) aging of the control electronics that allow the motors to apply too much torque to the mechanical parts. Thoughts?

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by mark.jane

I was told by the guys at Pro Custom in Elkhart that the controller boards age out of calibration and have to be replaced after 10 years or so. My Intellitec controller for my front drivers-side slide had this problem, allowing the slide lock motor to continue operating until the slide lock mount snapped off; the controller wasn’t sensing the current properly and turning off the motor. In addition to repairing the slide lock mount ($561 plus labor), they installed a new controller board. I’m wondering if there are two things as work here: 1) A poor mechanical design (mounts, aluminum gear casing), and; 2) aging of the control electronics that allow the motors to apply too much torque to the mechanical parts. Thoughts?

The older Intellitec controllers have adjustments for the motor drive current, the lock (paddles) current, and voice volume. "Aging" usually means the adjustment pots are getting dirty ... they can be cleaned and readjusted.

[Algoma]

Originally Posted by mark.jane

I was told by the guys at Pro Custom in Elkhart that the controller boards age out of calibration and have to be replaced after 10 years or so. My Intellitec controller for my front drivers-side slide had this problem, allowing the slide lock motor to continue operating until the slide lock mount snapped off; the controller wasn’t sensing the current properly and turning off the motor. In addition to repairing the slide lock mount ($561 plus labor), they installed a new controller board. I’m wondering if there are two things as work here: 1) A poor mechanical design (mounts, aluminum gear casing), and; 2) aging of the control electronics that allow the motors to apply too much torque to the mechanical parts. Thoughts?

My response was to a question from an owner with a 2018 model. These, like mine, have the C-Storm controller which is not adjustable. The old Intellitec controller was adjustable. The old controller can be updated with the C-Storm if you want.

[VP Chianese]

Ken,

You may be right but if the bolts didn't come out and I don't think they did being wire tied could this be a case of metal fatigue that was caused by the times that the bolts did back out. Also when they back out they wallow out the thread a bit and that may have induced the fatigue as well.

My thoughts are that we will have to wait to see if the production after October 2016 with the Blue LockTite has any failures. It has had time to have failed. Those bolts went into fresh threads with LockTite from the get go. And there have been no reports of failure as of now.

So maybe to be safe anyone that has had bolts come out would be well advised to drill them out one size and install EZ Loc steel inserts or Helicoil.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIAK7sB4YIg

Then Blue LockTite and be done with it.

[bruceisla]

FWIW, just checked my 2 living room slides and the bolts are still tight (Loctite Blue) and no signs of fractures. Old style controllers and gearboxes.

[Stealth01]

Originally Posted by VP Chianese

Ken,

You may be right but if the bolts didn't come out and I don't think they did being wire tied could this be a case of metal fatigue that was caused by the times that the bolts did back out. Also when they back out they wallow out the thread a bit and that may have induced the fatigue as well.

My thoughts are that we will have to wait to see if the production after October 2016 with the Blue LockTite has any failures. It has had time to have failed. Those bolts went into fresh threads with LockTite from the get go. And there have been no reports of failure as of now.

So maybe to be safe anyone that has had bolts come out would be well advised to drill them out one size and install EZ Loc steel inserts or Helicoil.


Then Blue LockTite and be done with it.

OR, the gear box casting has insufficient strength to carry the repeated "static inertia" torque load of the slide out! I can guarantee that the safety wired bolts are still torqued in the broken mounts! Also find it interesting that the mounts with the shortest "load path" (near the peripheral edge of the casting) failed first! Can't comment on previous metal fatigue, but there were no noticeable defects in October of 2016 when they were safety wired! One other point, we are "high time" users! We travel frequently as indicated by the 133 cycles since October 2016. We will have to wait and see if other failures occur... My main point is DON'T BECOME COMPLACENT LIKE I DID!! I honestly thought the issue was behind me because of the safety wired bolts!

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by Stealth01

OR, the gear box casting has insufficient strength to carry the repeated "static inertia" torque load of the slide out! I can guarantee that the safety wired bolts are still torqued in the broken mounts! Also find it interesting that the mounts with the shortest "load path" (near the peripheral edge of the casting) failed first! Can't comment on previous metal fatigue, but there were no noticeable defects in October of 2016 when they were safety wired! One other point, we are "high time" users! We travel frequently as indicated by the 133 cycles since October 2016. We will have to wait and see if other failures occur... My main point is DON'T BECOME COMPLACENT LIKE I DID!! I honestly thought the issue was behind me because of the safety wired bolts!

Are the gearboxes new (replacement) or original?

[Stealth01]

Originally Posted by bruceisla

Are the gearboxes new (replacement) or original?

The one that has failed is original, the "new one" that was replaced in June 2016 is OK.

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by Stealth01

The one that has failed is original, the "new one" that was replaced in June 2016 is OK.

wow ... weird ... starting to sound like too many ponies under the hood and not enough tranny.

[OverDo]

Originally Posted by jmckinley

Hate to say I told you so, but I did tell you safety wire guys that safety wire won’t fix a bad joint with inadequate fasteners. I posted that months ago.

If the parts aren’t clamped together tightly enough, the joint will start to slip and eventually destroy one or both components whether they unscrew themselves or not.

Absolutely correct.

["007"]

Is the new one that's OK a different type gear box, or the same type as broken one?