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Old 03-19-2007, 04:43 PM   #1
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My OEM Newmar rock guard is bent on both ends due to hitting a retread along I-95 yesterday. The top steel and bottom angle iron are flimsy and not sure if they are worth repairing. I tried removing it today to take it to a body shop and cut two nuckles on the sharp "NEWMAR" cut out on the flap. My socket wrench slipped off the bolt. Needless to say, it is still on the MH. Any thoughts?
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Old 03-19-2007, 04:43 PM   #2
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My OEM Newmar rock guard is bent on both ends due to hitting a retread along I-95 yesterday. The top steel and bottom angle iron are flimsy and not sure if they are worth repairing. I tried removing it today to take it to a body shop and cut two nuckles on the sharp "NEWMAR" cut out on the flap. My socket wrench slipped off the bolt. Needless to say, it is still on the MH. Any thoughts?
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Old 03-19-2007, 05:05 PM   #3
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Jerry, I am pretty much in the same position as you,as I ran over a large branch and my rock guard is bent on the passenger side.

I've not messed with it yet, but I'm hoping to be able to straighten the angle and reinstall it.

If you're not able to straighten the angle, you should be able to find it locally if you're in any size city...

Maybe lubricating the nuts will loosen them?
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Old 03-19-2007, 05:06 PM   #4
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I found mine was to long, that is towards the ground. It would drag at dips in the road and get bent when airing down if the ground rose any at the back. I shortened it 2 1/4" at the bottom and moved the name cutout up. It works far better now including when towing. The car stays cleaner as the flap is not draging and throwing stuff up.

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Old 03-19-2007, 05:17 PM   #5
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Jerry,
I just tackled the same thing on my rig(same as yours). My advice is to have a couple of coctails to ease the pain in your knuckles and then try again. Seriously though. I would definately replace the angle with a heavier grade. I wasted alot of time straightening mine. What bolts are you having trouble with?
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Old 03-19-2007, 05:31 PM   #6
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I will leave it up to someone else to work on. The bolts connecting the rock guard to the chains are very rusted. I will replace the bolts with stainless steel. The cutout is very sharp...knuckles cut so deep and can not bend them. My next purchase will be a new pair of work gloves. No golfing on this trip.

I will also reinstall it a little higher. Mine always dragged when air is down.
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Old 03-19-2007, 07:06 PM   #7
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Straightened ours twice(you need a good 5 lb. hammer with a straight edge wood piece). Then raised it 2" which helped some. Then lenghtened the tow hitch bar by 6". Then moved the mud flap 1 foot forward(had to cut 3" off the top to make it fit)-finally no mas problemas. The Topezes killed us here in Mexico! Most when traveling to Alaska remove the mud flap to minimize the rocks on the toad. We are using "transite shield' which has reduced the chips significantly-but it hard to keep it on the toad.
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Old 03-19-2007, 08:03 PM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Dav5942:
...Most when traveling to Alaska remove the mud flap to minimize the rocks on the toad... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Really? I'm new to this stuff... Help me understand this... When on the great Alaskan pebble paths I should *remove* the flap to reduce rock flips up on the toad?
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Old 03-20-2007, 03:02 AM   #9
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Do you think their is a reason that the angle steel is so flimsy? If the flap did not bend and give way at the ends, It may have trapped the re-tread I drove over and dragged it half way to Florida. Since the angle bent, it basically released the debris out of the side.

Sometimes their is a reason behind the design, other than cost reduction. I will most likely wait until I get back home and take it to a steel fabricator for repair. My next investment is a strong cordless drill that can remove bolts.
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Old 03-20-2007, 03:26 AM   #10
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Jerry,

I'm not sure a strong cordless drill will do that job...I would've suggested a loosening agent such as WD-40 and some gloves.

Just my opinion,but I think you've hit the steel quality issue on the head as if it was indeed stronger you would've in fact dragged the gator all the way to Florida.
In my case,the limb struck was propelled backwards off the right duals into the rock guard and then into the corner of my trailer,which really was a saviour for whoever was behind me,since the limb hit the trailer about two feet off the ground...
That limb would've done some damage...

I think the steel AND the guard is probably meant to be expendable...
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Old 03-20-2007, 06:04 AM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RVDude:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Dav5942:
...Most when traveling to Alaska remove the mud flap to minimize the rocks on the toad... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Really? I'm new to this stuff... Help me understand this... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes, after talking with many and reading lots on the different discussions-many remove the mud flap saying that it actually funnels rocks up on to the toad! We're heading that way this summer so will get some first hand experience.
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Old 03-20-2007, 12:57 PM   #12
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I take it the metal is mounted on hard rubber. If that's the case, take it off and flip it over. Then take a sledge hammer to the rubber side and straighten it out. It's an alternative to a new one!
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Old 03-20-2007, 03:49 PM   #13
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The Newmar flap feels more like a vinyl or plastic product, not rubber. I was at Liberty Coach today in Stuart, FL and looked at their flap. It is mounted to the bottom of the chassis and does not drag when the coach suspension is aired down. Like everything on a Liberty, it is just a better design.
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Old 03-20-2007, 05:42 PM   #14
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Stuart is spelled Stuart! And I'll guarantee it will have the same problems any other mud flap will have, it ain't got nothin to do with any design.
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