No hot water! Please help!

[ErinAnn]

We have a 2004 Dutchstar. Water heater can be run on gas or electric. It just stopped producing hot water yesterday.

I have checked the circuit breaker, and it was not tripped...I reset it anyway.

I turned off the electric and gas switches inside the RV. I then located the on/off switch on the hot water heater panel on the outside and switched it to "off". I let it all sit for awhile...then turned the switches back on inside...then turned the switch on outside. Nothing has happened.

Should there be a flame buring on the outside that I can see?

The electric switch on the inside turns red when turned on.
The gas switch on the inside does not turn red when turned on.
We have gas on our stove, so I'm sure we still have plenty of gas.

There is a "reset high limit control" on the panel outside. There were 2 buttons to push....but....there was a warning....but not any instructions...so I didn't want to do this.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks...Erin

["007"]

You have auto ignition start for heater no flame unless calling for heat up for HW.
You may want to check to see if a bug has entered the burner tube and if the flame sensor has a build up of carbon on it.
This link is for your water heater.
If your red led on LP switch does not light when operated you have lost your 12V power which is needed for operation of control board for both electric and LP gas.
12v fuse would be on 12V fuse panel near load center.
You may have to reset the ECO switch because of high limit was reached just push gently or rubber pads will tear.

Welcome to irv2.

[wa8yxm]

A flame burning where you can see.... No, not really.. I mean if you know EXCTLY where to look perhaps but it's inside a tube inside the thing.

You may have burned out the electric heat element.. If it's an ATTWOOD the element is on the "Inside" (Back side you might say) of the heater, That is the bad news.

The GOOD news is that it is a very standard element and most of the usual suspects hve it (Lowes, Home Depot, Sears, Hardware stores, Plumbers)

You need to grab ye-old-multimeter and run a few tests. Start by seeing if 120vac is arriving at the element (A test lamp can do this too)

["007"]

Its a Suburban heater. Element is from the front.
Its not firing in either case.

[ErinAnn]

Thank you both for your responses. I should have included the model...it's a Suburban SW10DE.

I didn't find a bug in the burner tube. Not sure if the flame sensor has a build up of carbon....cause I'm not sure what a flame sensor is. (I'm trying to figure that out right now.)

Also, checked the fuse and it's fine. It also goes to our fantastic vents and they are working fine.

I have 2 reset buttons....the rubber pads are already cracked. I think one is for 12v and the other 120...but not sure which is which. (No visible labeling)

BEFORE I PUSH THESE....do I have everything turned off...or on...or what?

Thanks again....Erin

["007"]

Just push both until you feel resistance doesn't need much pressure.
Look at PDF will show parts for heater.
Put all switch's on after the reset and do not forget 120 switch on face of burner.

[ErinAnn]

I tried pushing the buttons...there is no resistance at all....I think something might be wrong with the buttons. I took some pictures....but I have to go out right now for a couple of hours.

I will post them when I return. Hopefully you will be able to check this post later today.

Thanks again for your help....Erin

[GaryKD]

Hi ErinAnn,
My assumption is both gas and electric modes worked correctly up to this point. When both gas and electric fail at the same time one needs to look for a component that has something to do with both methods of heating. This could be the thermostat, high limit switch, circuit board or ECO could be bad.

You'll need a multi meter to make some tests. One needs to determine if power (120 VAC and 12 VDC) is getting to the HWH. If so, then one of the above mentioned components is guilty. If you are not comfortable doing this it is time to call a RV service tech.

Gut feel says it is the thermostat. The T'stat is behind one of those reset buttons you pressed.

[ErinAnn]

Hello guys...thanks for your responses yesterday...sorry it's taken me so long to get back with you guys.

Good news....we have hot water! I'm guessing that pushing the reset button worked.....but I don't see how....when we pressed it...there was absolutely no give to it...I really didn't think it could be triggering anything.

The odd thing was that we had left the gas and electric switches in the off position when we left yesterday at 2:30....when we returned home at 5:30...we had hot water. We couldn't believe it....we double and triple checked that the switches were off.

I then measured out 10 gallons (our heater's capacity), of hot water....then turned on the gas heater switch...and later that night we had hot water again. So....it seems to be working fine.

One question....the gas switch for the hot water heater has an indicator to the right of it. That lights up every so often....and we had always assumed it indicated that the heater had kicked on....to heat up some water.

Well....last night....after we drained out all the hot water....and turned on the gas switch again....we watched it for hours....and the light never came on....as we thought it would. (Also...we turned off the electric switch...and even put tape over it, so there was no way it could have been on.)

Because the light never came on....we didn't think we had had water....but finally we tested it....and we did have hot water. We also noticed that the indicator light says "reset".

So...the question is....what the heck is that indicator light for....and when does it come one?

Hope everyone is having a nice holiday weekend...and again....many, many thanks for helping me to get hot water again!! Erin

[GaryKD]

Hi ErinAnn,
The light comes on the first time the gas burner is in the lighting cycle. If it stays on there is trouble. Once the burner lights and continues to cycle, the light stays off. It may come on every now and then and go off again in short order. This just means the burner needed an additional cycle to start. No light means all is well.

[ErinAnn]

Hi Gary,

As the saying goes...."You learn something new everyday"!!!!

We have no light...and hot water....so all is well!

Thanks so much for taking the time to answer.

Have a great day...Erin

[mikf]

how can you have hot water with the switches off? seems to me like you still have a problem.

[Skip426]

I have to agree with, mikf, if the switches are in the off possission and water is still heating there may be other issues with the system. Be very careful as the 110 may somehow be powered up with the switch off. Test at the element for power, before working in the area, replacing anode rod or winterizing, as there will be a shock hazard or a 110 element burn out possible if the power is still getting through.

["007"]

As I said push gently in this post tabs are small and no need to push hard as someone did when they ripped the rubber pads.
Also you must know never turn on electric element with no water in tank or you will need a new element.
Glad you now have hot showers.